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New Monster stage 2 clutch/stock master cylinder

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Old 04-16-2018, 03:15 AM
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Default New Monster stage 2 clutch/stock master cylinder

Hey everyone, im hoping for a bit of insight/advise/knowledge on this one. I just finished installing a monster clutch stage 2 package (flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, new bolts and a new slave) as well as a remote bleeder from tick. The install went well except for the pilot bearing that monster provided (it didnt work, i had to buy a another one from advanced auto) once the pilot bearing from advanced went in the install went perfectly. Everything was torqued to spec. I got the car back on the ground and bled the system with the remote bleeder, which went fine. Heres my problem however, I have noticed that when going into first if done too quickly it will grind slightly, (it will go in though). I did a rev test, (clutched in, put it in first, reved to 5k) i moved slightly once. So i though i was having a disengagement problem, so i bled the system again. I tried the rev test again a bit later and i didnt move this time however first still grinds if you clutch in and go into first to quickly. When i did the install i did measure and a shim didnt appear to be needed, this is my first ever clutch job, i had some help from my brother and a friend. I dont know if i need a shim, i used the wrong trans fluid (i used dextron 3) or if the stock master cylinder isnt quite strong enough to handle the stage 2 pressure plate (it's a new stock master). Any info you guys/gals have would be greatly appreciated. Im really trying to avoid dropping the transmission again, unless i absolutely have to.

Thanks in advance

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Old 04-16-2018, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mbarb55 View Post
Hey everyone, im hoping for a bit of insight/advise/knowledge on this one. I just finished installing a monster clutch stage 2 package (flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, new bolts and a new slave) as well as a remote bleeder from tick. The install went well except for the pilot bearing that monster provided (it didnt work, i had to buy a another one from advanced auto) once the pilot bearing from advanced went in the install went perfectly. Everything was torqued to spec. I got the car back on the ground and bled the system with the remote bleeder, which went fine. Heres my problem however, I have noticed that when going into first if done too quickly it will grind slightly, (it will go in though). I did a rev test, (clutched in, put it in first, reved to 5k) i moved slightly once. So i though i was having a disengagement problem, so i bled the system again. I tried the rev test again a bit later and i didnt move this time however first still grinds if you clutch in and go into first to quickly. When i did the install i did measure and a shim didnt appear to be needed, this is my first ever clutch job, i had some help from my brother and a friend. I dont know if i need a shim, i used the wrong trans fluid (i used dextron 3) or if the stock master cylinder isnt quite strong enough to handle the stage 2 pressure plate (it's a new stock master). Any info you guys/gals have would be greatly appreciated. Im really trying to avoid dropping the transmission again, unless i absolutely have to.

Thanks in advance
Thanks for purchasing a Monster!!

The stock master will work just fine, with the Level 2.

What measurements did you have for the air gap?

Also what issue did you have with the pilot bearing?
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SNLPerformance View Post
Thanks for purchasing a Monster!!

The stock master will work just fine, with the Level 2.

What measurements did you have for the air gap?

Also what issue did you have with the pilot bearing?
Unfortunately I can't remember the measurements, iv been trying. The issue with the pilot bearing was the input shaft would not go in to it. The bearing was to small, by the smallest of margins and yes it was in the right way. It also had a lip on the front (wasn't smooth) I don't know if the bearing had a defect or not.
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Old 04-17-2018, 03:51 AM
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Any other thoughts or suggestions?
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Old 04-20-2018, 06:35 AM
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The only other odd thing I noticed was when I was bleeding the system with the tick remote bleeder my clutch pedal never got stuck on the floor. It always rebounded on its own which I didn't think much of at the time. The instructions state it should get stuck on the floor. Anyone have experience with this or know if this could be my cause?
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:08 AM
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Does the Tick MC need the drill mod?
When I did my clutch, with stock MC, the pedal sort of was on the floor at the end. When I was done bleeding, I had to "pump it up" a few times till it was at normal pressure and returned.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Paveglio View Post
Does the Tick MC need the drill mod?
When I did my clutch, with stock MC, the pedal sort of was on the floor at the end. When I was done bleeding, I had to "pump it up" a few times till it was at normal pressure and returned.
I have stock master cylinder with the drill mod.
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Old 05-05-2018, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mbarb55 View Post
The only other odd thing I noticed was when I was bleeding the system with the tick remote bleeder my clutch pedal never got stuck on the floor. It always rebounded on its own which I didn't think much of at the time. The instructions state it should get stuck on the floor. Anyone have experience with this or know if this could be my cause?
Do the instructions say to take off the return spring? It's been about 9 years since I put my Tick Master in and for some reason I vaguely remember that.

I have a Monster stage 2 and a Tick Master. I need to adjust the rod, I can't seem to get the engagement right, It's either to high, or on the floor and the gears grind.
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Old 05-06-2018, 12:21 AM
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My clutch return spring has been removed for some time. I haven't been able to reinstall it.
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