When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was pulling away from a red light casual as ever in first, slipping the clutch, when I suddenly heard a loud "pop" and the pedal sank to the floor. I tried to lift it up with my foot, thinking the MC had just let go, but it wouldn't. I was able to coast safely into a parking lot, to find this odd carnage.
That's right, the bracket between the Wilwood cylinder and the firewall completely snapped in half! What the literal F? I've had this thing for 6 years and it's never given me trouble until today. I wasn't even shifting hard, just a normal drive. I would think that even if the hydraulics were hydro-locked, the MC or slave seals would let go before this bracket. The only thing I can figure is that it's a casting defect that finally let go. Needless to say, I'm not too happy right now. Has anyone seen this before?
well this falls into the shiat happens category. IDK why it happened. I bet McLeod would send you another one. I believe they make the adapter and just use the Wilwood MC
Alright, I finally got some decent weather to get the hydraulics out. So, the bracket itself didn't break. It's actually two pieces that are welded together, and the welds all broke. I'll be contacting Mcleod about getting some sort of replacement. Yea, I guess **** happens sometimes.
I called their tech line, and their response was "buy another master cylinder". The bracket is made by a third party. I agree, that weld is crap. It should have been welded there and all the way around on the outside edge. I just hope nobody else is driving around with one of these half-assed brackets in their cars.
I'll try getting in touch with Billy, I think he's who helped me out before.
Update! After weeks of waiting, McLeod finally RMA'd my old one. They sent me a brand new MC with a one-piece bracket, still with the US-made Wilwood cylinder. Free of charge, at that. I will say that their communication sucks, but I can't complain too much at this point! A big thanks to Billy M who hooked me up yet again and kept me as a future customer. Now I just have to take some time and install this beauty.
I see the adapter is now "red" anodized and the piston rod is threaded at both ends where before it just slid on bottom rod connection where you just used loc-tite, if anything, to hold it on. Once mounted it had no where to go but I feel the new threaded bottom end (shaft coming out of MC) is better
My McLeod/Wilwood MC has been in for years now and no issues...hope it stays that way
Do you happen to know the part number for that master cylinder? Do you also know it's size?
check McLeod website. Stock LT1 MC is .75 (34") bore
I have a twin disc that requires their 13/16" bore one....but some do use it for single disc clutches but the pedal travel will be slightly shorter to disengage clutch as you are moving a higher volume of fluid per stroke
check McLeod website. Stock LT1 MC is .75 (34") bore
I have a twin disc that requires their 13/16" bore one....but some do use it for single disc clutches but the pedal travel will be slightly shorter to disengage clutch as you are moving a higher volume of fluid per stroke
part # for the 13/16" is 139305
What clutch are you using? I am planning to use either a single ceramic or a mcleod rst behind a big block chevy.
Thank you for the number! I am between a 13/16 or a 3/4
I have the "Street Twin" (organic discs) behind a 383 LT1. This is a "pull" type clutch. It requires a 13/16" bore MC(stock LT1 is 3/4")
If you are getting a RST that is a "push" type clutch that uses a hydraulic T.O. bearing around tranny snout and a MC on pedal assembly. IDK what the 139310 is made for but RST or RXT twin disc clutches, according to McLeod, want a stock size bore MC
I have the "Street Twin" (organic discs) behind a 383 LT1. This is a "pull" type clutch. It requires a 13/16" bore MC(stock LT1 is 3/4")
If you are getting a RST that is a "push" type clutch that uses a hydraulic T.O. bearing around tranny snout and a MC on pedal assembly. IDK what the 139310 is made for but RST or RXT twin disc clutches, according to McLeod, want a stock size bore MC
I decided to go with the single ceramic 11" clutch. I am making a set up that isn't the pull style, rather it is a the bearing on the snout, which requires the 3/4 bore.
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
McLeod MC bracket snapped in half 
The bracket is made by a third party. I agree, that weld is crap. It should have been welded there and all the way around on the outside edge. I just hope nobody else is driving around with one of these half-assed brackets in their cars.
