John Gossling

Hello. I am doing a swap on my 91 camaro that was orginally a 5 speed car to a t56. The tranny is out of a 95 camaro and i am using a Mcleod ajustable master cylinder (for a 95) The clutch is not fully disengaging when the pedal is pressed. What problems could there be? Loose clutch fork? Is my master no good?
thanks

cam

iTrader: (9)

Could be many things, hydraulics likely. I dont care for those LT clutches I burned down a few of them in my day. Start with a good bleed and see. easy to bleed those just take the slave cyl off the pin and pump it in a bunch of times until no more air comes bubbling out of master. Easiest with two people; one to pump and one to watch fluid and refill as nec. Start with that and see

BALLSS

you either still need to bleed the hydraulics or if they are completely bleed than adjust the rod so pedal has more travel

FWIW I installed the McLeod (Wilwood) MC and stock slave by first bench bleeding them as a unit then installing them

jimmyp3353

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to go with an improperly bled clutch. What procedure did you use to bleed the system?

John Gossling

I was under the impression it was a self bleeding system and i just needed to pump the clutch.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

you cant use hydraulics with an LT1 trans i thought......clutch fork

BALLSS

No, LT 1 hydraulics are a sealed system. You need to drop slave with piston pointing down and slowly pump the piston with palm of hand while someone else watches the reservoir for bubbles and adds fluid as needed. It can take many pumps to bleed. If you replaced MC or slave you should first bench bled either then attach braided line then bleed the assembled hydraulics

LT1 cars use hydraulic MC & slave. The slave pushes on a clutch fork. Clutch fork needs to be positioned correctly on T.O. bearing

cam

iTrader: (9)

You need to pump the piston in/out from the slave cyl down below to burp the air out.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

ok so op can u confirm you are using the correct hydraulics and not LS hydraulics?

John Gossling

That bleeding system makes perfect sense. Ill give it a shot and hopefully that works.

Otherwise I am using the correct hydraulics. The slave came off the donor car and the master was for a lt1 car

BALLSS

make sure the clutch pedal is completely "up" when bleeding the hydraulics. Use a bungie cord to hold it up or a piece of wood. Anything so the MC is completely free of any pressure from pedal on the MC

also the slave rod needs to have that plastic cup on it. The end that pushes against the fork

LLave

iTrader: (3)

The clutch disc isn't in backwards is it? This recently happened to a friend of mine. The taller side of the clutch center faces away from the crank.

John Gossling

Got the system bled. It when i push the clutch to the bottom it makes a grinding sound and when it should disengage. I didnt do this before. Im thinking throwout bearing
I know i had the clutch in the right direction because it wouldnt fit in the flywheel if it was in the wrong way

BALLSS

is the noise only when the clutch pedal is ALL the way down?

As you push the clutch in slowly can you control when the grinding starts?

"sometimes" the fork can hit the outer edge of PP but that is generally on twin disc type clutches. In those cases taking .100" off the base of the "T" stud resolves the problem but this should not be happening with a single disc clutch...unless the hydraulics are not bleed enough and the MC rod is then adjusted out to far to get full engagement but the fork then buzzes the PP

or the T.O bearing is failing

You should be able to just touch the clutch pedal with finger and push slightly and see a immediate corresponding "slight" movement of the slave rod at the same time. Would take 2 people to do this if hydraulics ae installed as one needs to be under car watching slave rod.

John Gossling

I have everything pulled down now. It looks like the PP was rubbing on the fork. Ill check me bleed and throw everything back together. Everything was put together right.

BALLSS

do you have the plastic cup on the end of the slave rod?

cam

iTrader: (9)

Whoa there hoss. The shift fork is held in place by a spring clip on the pivot. If the clip has failed or you dont get the fork slid in properly it will rub. Look closely and you should be able to see if its in correctly or not. If you cant see get a small USB scope cam and inspect