Master or Slave
Master or Slave My car creeps when putting it into gear, like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Then after its hot it wouldn't go into gear unless you shut it off and restart it in gear. The car is an 04 GTO with a T56. My first impression is to bleed the slave, but you can wiggle the clutch line going into the slave. Its not leaking but loose. The master is full.
I am going to bleed the slave first, but the fact the line is lose concerns me. Also, assuming the line looseness is not the problem, what sort of test or procedure do you take to determine which unit is at fault. Is there a pressure test I can make upon the MS to make sure before I pull the tranny??
I am going to bleed the slave first, but the fact the line is lose concerns me. Also, assuming the line looseness is not the problem, what sort of test or procedure do you take to determine which unit is at fault. Is there a pressure test I can make upon the MS to make sure before I pull the tranny??
Think so? But its loose, meaning whatever the line is attached to is loose. Three years ago I screwed it into the fitting on the new slave cylinder. For it to wiggle around means the slave body must have loosen up where it bolts to the tranny.
There is plastic in the slave?? All slaves?? But does anyone
know what the line pressure should be??
Also, did you have problems when it was cold too?
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Here is a follow up. The problem turned out to be the MC. I decided to change it first over the slave for two reasons. First, the slave wasn't leaking. The slave is at the end of the system so if the piston seal is bad it will leak and exit out the weep slot. When the MC has a bad seal, the fluid passes by the seal and stays in the cylinder. So, it can be broken but not leak.
Second, and obviously, to replace the slave the tranny must come out. So, I thought that I would try the MC first before pulling the tranny (ugh). It was tough. I had to remove the brake booster and brake MC, and then lay on the car floor in an tough position to remove the booster bolts which only moved an eighth of a turn each time.
When I started the car after bleeding, the pedal went to the floor but did not disengage the clutch. After a few restarts, the pedal returned and it has been fine ever since. That was two weeks ago. Thanks for the help.
Second, and obviously, to replace the slave the tranny must come out. So, I thought that I would try the MC first before pulling the tranny (ugh). It was tough. I had to remove the brake booster and brake MC, and then lay on the car floor in an tough position to remove the booster bolts which only moved an eighth of a turn each time.
When I started the car after bleeding, the pedal went to the floor but did not disengage the clutch. After a few restarts, the pedal returned and it has been fine ever since. That was two weeks ago. Thanks for the help.
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