No resistance in clutch pedal after installing motor/transmission
#1
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No resistance in clutch pedal after installing motor/transmission
Car has been down for more than a year. After putting in the ly6 shortblock/LS3 combo (turbo motor w/o turbo) I thought i was going to be able to start it. What a let down.
I assume it's air in the hydraulics. I've tried to bleed the system but no luck so far.
Any tricks I should use or does it just take a shitload of patients?
Thanks
I assume it's air in the hydraulics. I've tried to bleed the system but no luck so far.
Any tricks I should use or does it just take a shitload of patients?
Thanks
#2
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Have you "pumped it up"? Like pump it 6-9 times. Now I have no idea why my car does this, but after bleeding the clutch, it goes to the floor, no resistance no activation. But then I pump it like 5+ times and then it's good. I dont have a leak, I don't *think* I have air. But otherwise then it works fine and doesn't drag, disengagement seems fine. IDK but give it a try.
#3
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Car has been down for more than a year. After putting in the ly6 shortblock/LS3 combo (turbo motor w/o turbo) I thought i was going to be able to start it. What a let down.
I assume it's air in the hydraulics. I've tried to bleed the system but no luck so far.
Any tricks I should use or does it just take a shitload of patients?
Thanks
I assume it's air in the hydraulics. I've tried to bleed the system but no luck so far.
Any tricks I should use or does it just take a shitload of patients?
Thanks
After you install the kit, open the valve and submerge it the fluid of the master cylinder reservoir. Get inside the vehicle and gently pump it 10-15 times. Double check the fluid levels to make sure it wasn't run dry during the process. As long as the bleeder valve remained submerged the entire time, close it off and try your pedal. 9 times out of 10, the system is bled and you're done. Zip tie the line off somewhere out of the way, top off the fluid level as needed and put the cap back on the master cylinder reservoir.
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Originally Posted by AMP-D
My only advice is to spend the money on a speed bleeder/remote bleeder setup. It is almost idiot proof to use and will bleed the clutch out in less than a few minutes.
After you install the kit, open the valve and submerge it the fluid of the master cylinder reservoir. Get inside the vehicle and gently pump it 10-15 times. Double check the fluid levels to make sure it wasn't run dry during the process. As long as the bleeder valve remained submerged the entire time, close it off and try your pedal. 9 times out of 10, the system is bled and you're done. Zip tie the line off somewhere out of the way, top off the fluid level as needed and put the cap back on the master cylinder reservoir.
After you install the kit, open the valve and submerge it the fluid of the master cylinder reservoir. Get inside the vehicle and gently pump it 10-15 times. Double check the fluid levels to make sure it wasn't run dry during the process. As long as the bleeder valve remained submerged the entire time, close it off and try your pedal. 9 times out of 10, the system is bled and you're done. Zip tie the line off somewhere out of the way, top off the fluid level as needed and put the cap back on the master cylinder reservoir.
#5
Just went thru this on my car exactly. Shop tried a different master, bleeding, pumped pedal 400x, vacuum bleeding reservoir, every thing. In the end it all came back out to discover the slave needed shimmed.
#6
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Just got it. I actually used a pressure bleeder Brought it up to 10 lbs, cracked open the bleeder valve. Voila. Very simple.
Before I pumped it like 100 times. Tried to bleed it with my wife pushing in the clutch pedal. Just didn't see any improvement.
Before I pumped it like 100 times. Tried to bleed it with my wife pushing in the clutch pedal. Just didn't see any improvement.