Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Do I need more clutch, master, or both?

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Old 06-24-2019, 02:01 AM
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Default Do I need more clutch, master, or both?

HI guys, I have built t56 behind a stock shortblock LS1 with small H/CI setup. Puts down 421rwhp 408rwtq and it’s in a 3050lbs 71 Nova. I have a 3.90 rear gear, and it’s just a cruiser, not by any means a drag race car, but i am working on getting it dialed in so i can take it down the drag strip every now and again. It is definitely tough to get in reverse, and with drag radials when it’s hooked up and under max load I cannot shift it fast at high rpm, it just flat out won’t go into gear until I let the rpms fall a little. The guy who’s built the trans says it needs both more clutch, and the tick master. It has a spec stage 1 clutch in it which says it’s good to 599 tq. I have a stock f body master in it, so I don’t doubt that needs upgraded, but im wondering If I do the master if that clutch will be enough for 6500rpm hard load shifts
Old 06-24-2019, 04:03 PM
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I would actually start by double checking u don't need a slave shim. Cheapest solution but the most work involved. 6500 rpms is about the max i think u can do with a single disc clutch. Twin disk the stock master works pretty good.
Old 07-06-2019, 09:34 AM
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I once had a similar issue and my car is similar to yours at 3,085 lbs and 436rwhp. My aftermarket single disc was a b**** to shift at high RPMs. I performed the "rev test" and determined that the clutch was dragging. I would perform the following and it will help you identify whether a dragging clutch is to blame or not: On flat level ground, put the car in 1st gear and push the clutch pedal all the way in. Bring the RPMs up gradually to redline. If the car lurches forward at anytime, the clutch is dragging which explains the difficulty of shifting at WOT. When this happened to me, the resolution was swapping the OEM master for a Tick master cylinder (downside with larger master was the pedal became insanely stiff and the clutch enagement literally became and on/off switch - it was awful). This issue could be due to incorrect slave cylinder spacing in which a shim may be needed or a case in which the stock master is not moving enough fluid/exhibiting enough pressure to properly engage/disengage that aftermarket clutch. If your car passes this rev test, then you can ignore the above as the issue is elsewhere. I personally had a whole host of issues with my aftermarket single disc so I ditched it and went the conservative route with an OEM LS7 clutch and aluminum flywheel (while keeping the Tick master as the pedal was too soft for my liking with stock master) and never looked back. Since switching I've been able to make 7,000 rpm shifts all day long at the drag strip without issue and it's just awesome around town with no chatter or noises and great engagement.

Last edited by StealthFormula; 07-06-2019 at 09:40 AM.




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