New to Manual - Issues with Bleeding/Clutch Hydraulics
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Everyone,
Working on a 1999 Camaro Z/28 with a T56. The car was purchased without a transmission, and upon further inspection the LS1 was cracked. I recently finished swapping in a 6.0L LQ4 Short Block with 243 Heads and a Brian Tooley Stage 4 Truck Cam. Once installed in the car with a Speedway Remote Bleeder, I am attempting for the first time to bleed the clutch. When I purchased the car, the master reservoir was completely empty (Dirty) and the pedal would just flop right to the floor.
I cleaned the reservoir, added fresh DOT3 Brake Fluid, and attempted to bleed the clutch. With the bleeder open and in a jar of fresh fluid, and the reservoir remaining full. I pump, and pump, and pump. At no point does the pedal get any sort of pressure. I then put a Mitty Vac inside the reservoir and pulled a lot of bubbles out the top, which then gives the pedal 1 solid, pressurized push. However, the pedal stays on the floor and will not return. If I manually return the pedal to the top, the pedal once again has absolutely no pressure. The reservoir also does not go down almost at all.
I put the car back up on the hoist and had a look. Brake Fluid is pouring out the bottom of the Bellhousing. So I am sure there is a leak inside, I am assuming either the slave cylinder or the Remote Bleeder could also be leaking. (Have heard some issues with the Speedway Remote Bleeders)
So. I have several questions:
1. Is there a way to test the Master Cylinder as a standalone unit, for example, disconnecting the quick connect and using the Mitty Vac to pull air out of the assembly? I would like to verify the Master Cylinder is good before I order parts (Has to come across the border, Canadian Eh).
2. Since there is an obvious leak, I will pull the transmission out and check it all. Once I get the transmission pulled away from the bellhousing, is there any way I can "pressurize" or test the system to determine if the leak is coming from the Remote Bleeder's connection or the Slave Cylinder? Again, I don't mind replacing parts, I just need to have a good diagnosis to confirm it before I order parts.
3. With a fairly significant leak like this one, is it possible that I would get one solid push, then air would be introduced, and then the pedal would lose its pressure again? I am just unsure exactly how to corner
Any insight is great. I am a 4L80E guy and this is my first time ever working with a Manual Transmission. I honestly am not even worried about getting a "crisp", perfect pedal right now. I just want some pedal to be able to get it to work well enough that I can actually drive and shift the transmission and verify the used transmission I bought is any good. I just wanna drive this thing once, then I'll get the bug back I'm sure.
Thanks in advance guys!
Working on a 1999 Camaro Z/28 with a T56. The car was purchased without a transmission, and upon further inspection the LS1 was cracked. I recently finished swapping in a 6.0L LQ4 Short Block with 243 Heads and a Brian Tooley Stage 4 Truck Cam. Once installed in the car with a Speedway Remote Bleeder, I am attempting for the first time to bleed the clutch. When I purchased the car, the master reservoir was completely empty (Dirty) and the pedal would just flop right to the floor.
I cleaned the reservoir, added fresh DOT3 Brake Fluid, and attempted to bleed the clutch. With the bleeder open and in a jar of fresh fluid, and the reservoir remaining full. I pump, and pump, and pump. At no point does the pedal get any sort of pressure. I then put a Mitty Vac inside the reservoir and pulled a lot of bubbles out the top, which then gives the pedal 1 solid, pressurized push. However, the pedal stays on the floor and will not return. If I manually return the pedal to the top, the pedal once again has absolutely no pressure. The reservoir also does not go down almost at all.
I put the car back up on the hoist and had a look. Brake Fluid is pouring out the bottom of the Bellhousing. So I am sure there is a leak inside, I am assuming either the slave cylinder or the Remote Bleeder could also be leaking. (Have heard some issues with the Speedway Remote Bleeders)
So. I have several questions:
1. Is there a way to test the Master Cylinder as a standalone unit, for example, disconnecting the quick connect and using the Mitty Vac to pull air out of the assembly? I would like to verify the Master Cylinder is good before I order parts (Has to come across the border, Canadian Eh).
2. Since there is an obvious leak, I will pull the transmission out and check it all. Once I get the transmission pulled away from the bellhousing, is there any way I can "pressurize" or test the system to determine if the leak is coming from the Remote Bleeder's connection or the Slave Cylinder? Again, I don't mind replacing parts, I just need to have a good diagnosis to confirm it before I order parts.
3. With a fairly significant leak like this one, is it possible that I would get one solid push, then air would be introduced, and then the pedal would lose its pressure again? I am just unsure exactly how to corner
Any insight is great. I am a 4L80E guy and this is my first time ever working with a Manual Transmission. I honestly am not even worried about getting a "crisp", perfect pedal right now. I just want some pedal to be able to get it to work well enough that I can actually drive and shift the transmission and verify the used transmission I bought is any good. I just wanna drive this thing once, then I'll get the bug back I'm sure.
Thanks in advance guys!
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,452
Received 1,851 Likes
on
1,152 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Everyone,
Working on a 1999 Camaro Z/28 with a T56. The car was purchased without a transmission, and upon further inspection the LS1 was cracked. I recently finished swapping in a 6.0L LQ4 Short Block with 243 Heads and a Brian Tooley Stage 4 Truck Cam. Once installed in the car with a Speedway Remote Bleeder, I am attempting for the first time to bleed the clutch. When I purchased the car, the master reservoir was completely empty (Dirty) and the pedal would just flop right to the floor.
I cleaned the reservoir, added fresh DOT3 Brake Fluid, and attempted to bleed the clutch. With the bleeder open and in a jar of fresh fluid, and the reservoir remaining full. I pump, and pump, and pump. At no point does the pedal get any sort of pressure. I then put a Mitty Vac inside the reservoir and pulled a lot of bubbles out the top, which then gives the pedal 1 solid, pressurized push. However, the pedal stays on the floor and will not return. If I manually return the pedal to the top, the pedal once again has absolutely no pressure. The reservoir also does not go down almost at all.
I put the car back up on the hoist and had a look. Brake Fluid is pouring out the bottom of the Bellhousing. So I am sure there is a leak inside, I am assuming either the slave cylinder or the Remote Bleeder could also be leaking. (Have heard some issues with the Speedway Remote Bleeders)
So. I have several questions:
1. Is there a way to test the Master Cylinder as a standalone unit, for example, disconnecting the quick connect and using the Mitty Vac to pull air out of the assembly? I would like to verify the Master Cylinder is good before I order parts (Has to come across the border, Canadian Eh).
Working on a 1999 Camaro Z/28 with a T56. The car was purchased without a transmission, and upon further inspection the LS1 was cracked. I recently finished swapping in a 6.0L LQ4 Short Block with 243 Heads and a Brian Tooley Stage 4 Truck Cam. Once installed in the car with a Speedway Remote Bleeder, I am attempting for the first time to bleed the clutch. When I purchased the car, the master reservoir was completely empty (Dirty) and the pedal would just flop right to the floor.
I cleaned the reservoir, added fresh DOT3 Brake Fluid, and attempted to bleed the clutch. With the bleeder open and in a jar of fresh fluid, and the reservoir remaining full. I pump, and pump, and pump. At no point does the pedal get any sort of pressure. I then put a Mitty Vac inside the reservoir and pulled a lot of bubbles out the top, which then gives the pedal 1 solid, pressurized push. However, the pedal stays on the floor and will not return. If I manually return the pedal to the top, the pedal once again has absolutely no pressure. The reservoir also does not go down almost at all.
I put the car back up on the hoist and had a look. Brake Fluid is pouring out the bottom of the Bellhousing. So I am sure there is a leak inside, I am assuming either the slave cylinder or the Remote Bleeder could also be leaking. (Have heard some issues with the Speedway Remote Bleeders)
So. I have several questions:
1. Is there a way to test the Master Cylinder as a standalone unit, for example, disconnecting the quick connect and using the Mitty Vac to pull air out of the assembly? I would like to verify the Master Cylinder is good before I order parts (Has to come across the border, Canadian Eh).
2. Since there is an obvious leak, I will pull the transmission out and check it all. Once I get the transmission pulled away from the bellhousing, is there any way I can "pressurize" or test the system to determine if the leak is coming from the Remote Bleeder's connection or the Slave Cylinder? Again, I don't mind replacing parts, I just need to have a good diagnosis to confirm it before I order parts.
3. With a fairly significant leak like this one, is it possible that I would get one solid push, then air would be introduced, and then the pedal would lose its pressure again? I am just unsure exactly how to corner
Any insight is great. I am a 4L80E guy and this is my first time ever working with a Manual Transmission. I honestly am not even worried about getting a "crisp", perfect pedal right now. I just want some pedal to be able to get it to work well enough that I can actually drive and shift the transmission and verify the used transmission I bought is any good. I just wanna drive this thing once, then I'll get the bug back I'm sure.
Thanks in advance guys!
Thanks in advance guys!
#3
9 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you have a remote bleed and can get a pipe onto it. A cheap large syringe is as good as any for bleeding.
It will easily allow you to push fluid through forwards or backwards as well as a good visual with clear hose to see any air bubbles.
It will easily allow you to push fluid through forwards or backwards as well as a good visual with clear hose to see any air bubbles.