HELP - clutch pedal to the floor, mighty vac and traditional bleeding not working
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
HELP - clutch pedal to the floor, mighty vac and traditional bleeding not working
I recently purchased this 00 Camaro SS manual transmission from Florida, all stock. I noticed it had a somewhat soft pedal but after having it on the dyno the pedal got worse. I attempted to bleed it after cutting a hole in the floorboard to access the bleeder. I filled the reservoir, pumped the pedal 30 times, held it down, broke the bleeder for a minute, tightened the bleeder and then let the pedal back up. And continued to repeat this over and over and over. It didn’t improve the pedal any and I wasn’t getting barely any fluid out of the bleeder.... moved on to the MIGHTYVAC method, with the bleeder closed I hooked the vacuum into the master reservoir and pumped it up. I got an extreme amount of air out of the system, but the master didn’t pull any fluid back into the system after I released the vacuum. I’m not getting much air out anymore with the MIGHTYVAC but it’s still not taking any fluid or bleeding at the slave. My guess is that the master is completely dry but am I right and why? The master cylinder has no leaks around the boot and I’m not leaking fluid from anywhere. So what now? Time to give up? New master cylinder, new slave cylinder? Both? Or is there more than I could do to try and fix this? Like I said I have absolutely no pedal, it’s to the floor and when I pump it manually it feels and sounds like I’m pumping air.
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
If you've done everything to bleed the system correctly then either the clutch master or slave is done. Are you sure you bled the system correctly?
#3
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
On the slave you crack the bleeder first, push the clutch in and hold it to the floor, close the bleed screw and then left off the clutch. Repeat as necessary.
#4
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
For the master just fill it up to the full line with fluid, take the mighty vac with the canister, lines a appropriate fitting and insert the nipple down into the reservoir where the line connects down at the bottom. Start pulling a vaccum on the system and draw the air bubbles out. As you draw the air out of the system the fluid level will fall and you may need to add more fluid. GL
#5
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Oh yeah and bleed the master before bleeding the slave.
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
I have tried bleeding the master and the slave, but no matter which one I do, I get 50/50 air/fluid. I know how to bleed them both, I’m aware of how to use the mighty vac on the master and how to bleed the slave with the pedal, but I still continue to get nonstop air. I even opened the bleeder and put vacuum to the bleeder at the slave and still got 50/50 air/fluid...How would air be getting into the system? Where should I start? Or what should I start replacing first....
#7
TECH Apprentice
Long shot, but......
I have tried bleeding the master and the slave, but no matter which one I do, I get 50/50 air/fluid. I know how to bleed them both, I’m aware of how to use the mighty vac on the master and how to bleed the slave with the pedal, but I still continue to get nonstop air. I even opened the bleeder and put vacuum to the bleeder at the slave and still got 50/50 air/fluid...How would air be getting into the system? Where should I start? Or what should I start replacing first....
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#8
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
"I filled the reservoir, pumped the pedal 30 times, held it down, broke the bleeder for a minute, tightened the bleeder and then let the pedal back up."
Maybe for a brake job this is what you's do but its not the correct procedure to bleed a slave. Just saying.
Maybe for a brake job this is what you's do but its not the correct procedure to bleed a slave. Just saying.
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
Okay genius... then why don’t you tell me the correct procedure instead of criticizing my methods.... just saying.
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
I seen it, thank you. That’s what I did originally but after getting no air or fluid to come originally, I attempted to pump the clutch multiple time to try to build up pressure. Which in my opinion as well as others wasn’t wrong. I just don’t like when someone doesn’t know how to provide constructive criticism, especially on a thread like this where I’m looking for help. But thank you I did see the 3rd post.
#12
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Don't take this the wrong way but lets start with the clutch master. Disconnect it from the slave and and fill up the reservoir with brake fluid and your mighty vac on it to pull the air from the system. If the system is sealed it should eventually just draw fluid but if it continues to suck air then obviously its not sealed and if you can't figure out where on the clutch master the leak is due to it being something internal it will need to be replaced. Once you have a properly bled clutch master cylinder then you can start to bleed the slave. GL
#13
Teching In
Thread Starter
Thank you, nothing about that to be taken the wrong way, I appreciate the advice. I’ve actually given up though. I purchased a tick performance master cylinder... and I’ll go from there. If it doesn’t solve the issue then I’ll know it’s internal and most likely the slave.
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Franco26 (04-16-2023)