8hnpSS

iTrader: (3)

Ok I’ve been chasing some clutch issues for a little while now. Last summer I had a monster stage 3 put in my car. New slave / fly wheel / pressure plate / throw out bearing. (The only thing on my car I didn’t install myself). It’s been in for around 1000 miles. When it was first put in it smelled a little bit I just took it as it’s a new clutch. Smell slowly went away. Now whenever I get it up passed 4500 in 3rd or 4th it slips pretty bad. It will start to take off and by the time it hits 6k it feels like it’s in neutral. I’m at the point where I’m going to rip it out. You can’t adjust anything on these hydraulic clutches right? Open for suggestions please

what I’ve done so far :

-ive bled the clutch with the speed bleeder
-Installed a tick master cylinder and adjusted the peddle

stevieturbo

Get a visual on whether the slave/bearing is fully retracted, or in a normal position that would not be putting pressure on the fingers.

But either the clutch is faulty...or it has been installed wrong. More likely the latter.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (23)

Yes, there are adjustments.

1) The slave cylinder on the transmission has to be shimmed to the correct depth for your clutch.

2) The Tick master cylinder you installed has an adjustable rod length that influences the volume of fluid when the clutch pedal is stroked. Longer rod length (pedal higher) moves more fluid during the stroke. Shorter rod length (pedal lower) moves less fluid during the stroke. You can under stroke the slave cylinder; or you can over stroke the master cylinder & slave cylinder. There is a procedure to properly adjust the rod length.

3) The master cylinder bore diameter changes volume of fluid, stroke, and pedal effort. The stock master cylinder has a bore diameter of 3/4". Tick gives you a Tilton master cylinder that moves more fluid with a 7/8" bore diameter and maximum 1" stroke. Make sure you're not exceeding 1" stroke and slamming the piston into the body. (The clutch pedal should hit the physical pedal stop, not be stopped by the master cylinder.) The bore diameter number is cast into the body of the cylinder and you can read it.

8hnpSS

iTrader: (3)

I have made small adjustments to the rod length on the master cylinder and it made little to no difference. The clutch will dis engage just fine and has no problem going into gear. Im leaning more toward the slave or throw out bearing. Either way it has to come out. Appreciate the input