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Yes! Very interested to hear your thoughts as we are both on very similar paths. I’m looking to pull the trigger in late spring, so timing is perfect. Especially GI ring your motor is fully mounted to a test stand. Would love your thoughts on how you handle the harness: turnkey or home-brew.
Yes! Very interested to hear your thoughts as we are both on very similar paths. I’m looking to pull the trigger in late spring, so timing is perfect. Especially GI ring your motor is fully mounted to a test stand. Would love your thoughts on how you handle the harness: turnkey or home-brew.
I'm a home brew kinda guy. I've been building harnesses since 2003. I used connectors from a GM 6.0 harness. I'll marry them to the flying leads of the MaxxEcu. I also have a couple of quality multi conductor bulkhead connectors that I may also throw into the mix, but I'll decide that once I get the engine test fit to the body. On the test stand, it will be all wire nuts.
I'm a home brew kinda guy. I've been building harnesses since 2003. I used connectors from a GM 6.0 harness. I'll marry them to the flying leads of the MaxxEcu. I also have a couple of quality multi conductor bulkhead connectors that I may also throw into the mix, but I'll decide that once I get the engine test fit to the body. On the test stand, it will be all wire nuts.
Why use old connectors on a brand new engine harness?! You can get all of the correct connectors that you need from Ballenger Motorsports. Holley also sells all of the connectors and terminals under a single part number.
Why use old connectors on a brand new engine harness?! You can get all of the correct connectors that you need from Ballenger Motorsports. Holley also sells all of the connectors and terminals under a single part number.
Andrew
Thanks Andrew, that's a great resource. I'll probably use it for the connectors I'm missing.
But I find it's faster and less error prone to reuse the ones I already have. I've never had an OEM connector fail yet.
For me, it's way more work to figure out which ones I need, get the part numbers exactly right, and then to pin a new connector from scratch without making an error, than use one that's proven to fit and with the right color wires on it already. I'm not in business selling to customers.
Thanks Andrew, that's a great resource. I'll probably use it for the connectors I'm missing.
But I find it's faster and less error prone to reuse the ones I already have. I've never had an OEM connector fail yet.
For me, it's way more work to figure out which ones I need, get the part numbers exactly right, and then to pin a new connector from scratch without making an error, than use one that's proven to fit and with the right color wires on it already. I'm not in business selling to customers.
The website I linked does all the hard work for you. Just choose the connector by name.
Thanks Andrew, that's a great resource. I'll probably use it for the connectors I'm missing.
But I find it's faster and less error prone to reuse the ones I already have. I've never had an OEM connector fail yet.
For me, it's way more work to figure out which ones I need, get the part numbers exactly right, and then to pin a new connector from scratch without making an error, than use one that's proven to fit and with the right color wires on it already. I'm not in business selling to customers.
ive always made all my own harnesses and wiring and used to do it that way for those same reasons but once i invested a little bit of time figuring it all out and getting it all organized nicely in flip top cases, i only use old connectors if i have to. having new parts and decent tools is actually significantly more efficient for me now.
ballenger has all the really hard to find stuff and the best organization of anywhere i know of but i buy the most from prowireusa. they have really nice 'kits' of oem connectors with seals, pins, tpas and heat shrink label and the cost is right on par with when i bought all that stuff individually from mouser. i still buy all my superseal1.0 and deutsch from mouser but all my wire, heat shrink and pins usually come from prowire.
the whole wiring process is fairly therapeutic for me though and ive been on a decades-long quest to make the highest quality wiring possible for my cars.
this is four of my cases i mentioned
ive always made all my own harnesses and wiring and used to do it that way for those same reasons but once i invested a little bit of time figuring it all out and getting it all organized nicely in flip top cases, i only use old connectors if i have to. having new parts and decent tools is actually significantly more efficient for me now.
ballenger has all the really hard to find stuff and the best organization of anywhere i know of but i buy the most from prowireusa. they have really nice 'kits' of oem connectors with seals, pins, tpas and heat shrink label and the cost is right on par with when i bought all that stuff individually from mouser. i still buy all my superseal1.0 and deutsch from mouser but all my wire, heat shrink and pins usually come from prowire.
the whole wiring process is fairly therapeutic for me though and ive been on a decades-long quest to make the highest quality wiring possible for my cars.
this is four of my cases i mentioned
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