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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 12:32 PM
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Default Another clutch question

I LS/T56 swapped my Chevelle. Used 2000 Camaro t56 with new LS7 clutch and new slave. Also have a tilton adjustable master cylinder. When putting it into first the car seems to just slight jerk forward, but it goes into gear easily no force at all. and if I keep my foot on the clutch and put it into other gears the the car doesn’t move at all, but if I take my foot off and then push the clutch back in it does it again. Just seems weird to me that if I keep my foot on the clutch it doesn’t jerk the car forward at all.

when I first set up the clutch I tried setting up the clutch pedal to be at the factory height, and now that I am reading about how to set up the adjustable master is says to not do that, saying it can over extend the pressure plate fingers. Could I have done that my accident, causing this issue?

Also, I didn’t put a shim in behind the slave cylinder because everything says it doesn’t need one, I didn’t measure for it.

Last edited by JF74chevelle; Jun 16, 2020 at 12:40 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 08:44 PM
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Also, with the tilton master cylinder and this clutch, the clutch feels like an on and off switch it’s pretty hard to drive and annoying. Is there anything to do to fix that? I’m also thinking that I may have toasted the pressure plate by over extending it.
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Old Jun 17, 2020 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JF74chevelle
Also, with the tilton master cylinder and this clutch, the clutch feels like an on and off switch it’s pretty hard to drive and annoying. Is there anything to do to fix that? I’m also thinking that I may have toasted the pressure plate by over extending it.
If the pedal is too high, you can flow too much fluid to the slave cylinder. This can lead to a lot of bad things. If you were already into a problem related to this, I would expect you'd be having major problems.

Regardless, I would start by adjusting the master cylinder and pedal per the instructions.

The Triton will feel more sensitive and the travel through the friction point will be much less than a regular stock cylinder. You'll get used to it and it will become second nature, once you build up the special muscle tone required at the base of your calf muscle. (If you drive the car a lot your leg may get a little sore, at first. The discomfort goes away right at about the point you start to get a feel for the clutch.)


Originally Posted by JF74chevelle
When putting it into first the car seems to just slight jerk forward,
This makes me think that the clutch is too close to the pressure plate. You should have measured everything before you installed the transmission, but if you are having this problem - my guess is that you definitely don't need a shim.

You may find that the proper adjustment of the pedal fixes this. (The clutch pedal may be higher than your brake pedal when you are done.)
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Old Jun 17, 2020 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
If the pedal is too high, you can flow too much fluid to the slave cylinder. This can lead to a lot of bad things. If you were already into a problem related to this, I would expect you'd be having major problems.

Regardless, I would start by adjusting the master cylinder and pedal per the instructions.

The Triton will feel more sensitive and the travel through the friction point will be much less than a regular stock cylinder. You'll get used to it and it will become second nature, once you build up the special muscle tone required at the base of your calf muscle. (If you drive the car a lot your leg may get a little sore, at first. The discomfort goes away right at about the point you start to get a feel for the clutch.)




This makes me think that the clutch is too close to the pressure plate. You should have measured everything before you installed the transmission, but if you are having this problem - my guess is that you definitely don't need a shim.

You may find that the proper adjustment of the pedal fixes this. (The clutch pedal may be higher than your brake pedal when you are done.)
I did adjust the master cylinder so that it goes into gear easily, like I said, the transmission will shift into 1st and reverse easily, but it does jerk ever so slightly, like you have to be really paying attention to even notice it. But if you keep your foot on the clutch to the floor and the first shift no matter into what gear it’ll want to slightly move the car, but if you then pull it out of that gear and put it into another with your foot still to the floor on the clutch the car does not move at all. So possibly there is still a small amount of air in the line?

And the transmission does not grind at all when driving around. Even at higher rpm. I do know that the LS7 clutch is SAC so the release point will adjust higher up.

Last edited by JF74chevelle; Jun 18, 2020 at 12:35 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JF74chevelle
the transmission will shift into 1st and reverse easily, but it does jerk ever so slightly, like you have to be really paying attention to even notice it.
This should mean that you still have a tiny bit of contact between the clutch and the pressure plate when the pedal is in. The clutch is likely slipping/burning when this contact happens in the other gears.
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
This should mean that you still have a tiny bit of contact between the clutch and the pressure plate when the pedal is in. The clutch is likely slipping/burning when this contact happens in the other gears.
so there could be a few things.
1) air still in the hydraulics
2) the master and pedal need to be adjusted
3) the slave needs a shim behind it.

update, I adjusted the master/pedal every which way and none made a difference on the very slight movement when put into gear. So I will try more bleeding next and then if that doesn’t work then I guess it’s back to square one.

Last edited by JF74chevelle; Jun 18, 2020 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 03:19 PM
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Did you do the vacuum bleed of the master? That's the easy thing to do.

Indeed, you could need a shim - but that's a bit of work to confirm at this point.
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Did you do the vacuum bleed of the master? That's the easy thing to do.

Indeed, you could need a shim - but that's a bit of work to confirm at this point.
just bled the hell out of it, and I have a speed bleeder which I dunk in a cup of fluid. Still is doing it. Only thing left to do is pull the trans I guess

also did the rev test of putting it in gear and running the motor up to redline, car did not move at all
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 11:55 PM
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Thinking about pulling the trans and ditching the LS7 clutch for a monster level 2. What do you guys think?
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Old Jul 13, 2020 | 12:31 AM
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DO IT, just replaced my LS7 with a Monster Stage 2 and it's a night and day difference. Feels like a real clutch and not a finiky piece of garbage.
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ATXSS
DO IT, just replaced my LS7 with a Monster Stage 2 and it's a night and day difference. Feels like a real clutch and not a finiky piece of garbage.
got my stage two In the car with the trans and everything earlier this week. Need to bleed the clutch and go for it.

I measured everything and the LS7 did need a shim, the monster also did too so I ordered the tick shims and installed them. Fingers crossed everything is good to go!
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:06 AM
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Fingers crossed. Please let us know how it is!
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 12:09 PM
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Well boys... the monster clutch is AWESOME.

The release is perfect and it drives so much nicer than the LS7. For anyone in the future that looks at this thread. Pay the money and get a much better quality clutch. Monster stage 2 is the way to go.
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JF74chevelle
Well boys... the monster clutch is AWESOME.

The release is perfect and it drives so much nicer than the LS7. For anyone in the future that looks at this thread. Pay the money and get a much better quality clutch. Monster stage 2 is the way to go.
I also have a monster stage 2 with 28lb flywheel, didn’t install shim and I feel like my clutch slips under WOT, tried adjusting my tick master cylinder and it hasn’t worked so I’m guessing I’m gonna have to measure for shim. Guess the mechanic who installed my clutch didn’t measure gaps. What size shim did you use?
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Old Jul 20, 2020 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 650slpss
I also have a monster stage 2 with 28lb flywheel, didn’t install shim and I feel like my clutch slips under WOT, tried adjusting my tick master cylinder and it hasn’t worked so I’m guessing I’m gonna have to measure for shim. Guess the mechanic who installed my clutch didn’t measure gaps. What size shim did you use?
I used the Tick shim kit.
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Old Jul 20, 2020 | 11:03 AM
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All 3 of the shims? Or which size specifically if you remember
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Old Jul 20, 2020 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 650slpss
All 3 of the shims? Or which size specifically if you remember
I used the .055 and .113 shim. But you’ll have to measure to know what you need.
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Old Jul 20, 2020 | 06:36 PM
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Right on bro thank you for responding, time to get to it soon, hopefully I got the same luck as you
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Old Jul 20, 2020 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 650slpss
Right on bro thank you for responding, time to get to it soon, hopefully I got the same luck as you
make sure when you’re measuring it that the throwout bearing is all the way against the base of the slave.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JF74chevelle
make sure when you’re measuring it that the throwout bearing is all the way against the base of the slave.
finally did it and got measurements the pressure plate on I got 2.27 and from slave to tranny I got 1.99 giving me a difference of .28 would you have an idea of what shin sizes I need? I’m kinda consufed on that
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