The0nlyon3

The transmission swap kit I got for my Chevelle came with a Wilwood master cylinder that has a 3/4” bore. The supplied clutch hose that came with this kit has a 90° male IF 3/8-24 tube nut on it.. then that ran down to the hydraulic release bearing. I’m swapping to a twin disc clutch and using a Tilton 6000 series HRB. The hose fitting on the HBR are female -4an fittings. I’m preparing to use a 3/16 brake line with a 180° in it (to run down towards the bell housing) and from there I’ll use a 3/8-24 IF to 4an adapter so I can attach the HRB to it..

anyone see any issue with this? I have searched and search for any place or anyone that can make a braided SS hose in the configuration I need to avoid adapters and brake line etc.

The0nlyon3

This goes into the master cylinder. The other end that goes into the HRB has like a bubble flare and the nut is larger.

Sacrilege

iTrader: (1)

Speedway sells pretty much any adapter you could possibly imagine.

The0nlyon3

I’ll check them out thanks!

showdog75

iTrader: (8)

This why I like doing everything in AN.

Sacrilege

iTrader: (1)

And your point is? Not a single master cylinder anywhere ever made by any brand has AN fittings. And not any caliper anywhere ever made has AN fittings. They all require adaptation from another standard whether it’s a bubble flare, a double flare or a banjo. So your statement means absolutely nothing. But good for you for being so superior to everyone else.

Also, AN sucks for brakes. AN is for soft lines, and soft lines expand under pressure which induces a spongy feeling and requires extra travel in brake and clutch pedals. Soft lines should only be used when absolutely necessary and should be kept as short as physically possible. Hard lines with flares or banjos should be used everywhere else.

The0nlyon3

Okay... think I got it figured out.

my t56 swap kit came with a .75” bore Wilwood master.

per the tech sheet for the Tilton 6000 series HRB, if I am running a 10.5-11” diaphragm type clutch (which I am, I’ll be using the summit twin disc clutch that has a disc diameter of 9.450” which I’m guessing would fall into the 10.5”-11” category)

I need to increase the master from a .75” bore to 13/16” bore. Wilwoods master has a 3/8”-24 IF port for the HRB.




this port is really close to the bottom of the brake booster. In fact, it’s so close the 90° tube that came with this kit actually came into contact with the booster... so clearance is tight!

I think I came up with a solution though. Earls has -3an banjo fittings




so I think I can bolt this to the master using a banjo bolt (obviously). From there, I can simply run a SS braided -3an brake hose down to the bell housing. From there, I’ll use an earls -3an to -4an adapter to attach to the HRB hose.

I guess the only question is if the banjo fitting and washer will work on that fitting on the master cylinder. Doesn’t have a whole lot of surface area.

Thoughts!?

The0nlyon3

Here is the Tilton master cylinder recommendation chart

showdog75

iTrader: (8)

I disagree with you. I have AN flares on my HARD LINES and I use adapters wherever I need them. AN flares are the best on systems that need servicing as most typical flares are not designed for removal and reinstallation numerous times. To each there own and I can judge by plenty of your other replies on this forum that your as opinionated as they come. Who said anything about thinking I'm superior? Sounds like that's the way you think you condescending *****.

79LS1FOX

iTrader: (11)

As long as the banjo bolt doesn't bottom out before it seals the crush washers you will be ok, reason I mention bottoming out is because you'll see when you remove that fitting its a bubble flare on the end going into the master, so just make sure your banjo bolt doesn't hit the flare in the master before its tight.

stevieturbo

just cut the hose and put whatever fittings you need on it, or make a new hose. Teflon hose is dead easy to work with