Clutch not fully disengaging!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 11
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Clutch not fully disengaging! 2001 Camaro Z28
auto to manual swap in progress
Bone stock
In the middle of a 6 speed swap, and have not been able to get the clutch functioning as it should. I have a new GM master cylinder that has the drill mod, a new LUK slave cylinder that I used the biggest of the 3 shims from summit racing, new stock ls1 clutch pressure plate and disc, and a new stock replacement flywheel. On jack stands, the wheels will spin in 1st gear with the clutch in, and it is very hard to get into reverse. However, I am able to push the clutch in, put in 1st gear, and when the tires start spinning I can press the brakes and the engine will not stall, so it is disengaging some, right?
I'm unsure if I need to bleed it more, or if I need to shim it more. I've tried using the Mityvac, and bleeding the traditional way (open bleeder, clutch down, close bleeder, clutch up) and while the pedal has a decent feel, it still has a couple inches of play before it gets hard. I've read multiple forums, and all the people who have had similar issues never posted their solutions. Thanks in advance!
P.S
It is not in my budget right now to buy a Tick, so please don't just suggest that! The stock MC should be good enough for stock stuff!
auto to manual swap in progress
Bone stock
In the middle of a 6 speed swap, and have not been able to get the clutch functioning as it should. I have a new GM master cylinder that has the drill mod, a new LUK slave cylinder that I used the biggest of the 3 shims from summit racing, new stock ls1 clutch pressure plate and disc, and a new stock replacement flywheel. On jack stands, the wheels will spin in 1st gear with the clutch in, and it is very hard to get into reverse. However, I am able to push the clutch in, put in 1st gear, and when the tires start spinning I can press the brakes and the engine will not stall, so it is disengaging some, right?
I'm unsure if I need to bleed it more, or if I need to shim it more. I've tried using the Mityvac, and bleeding the traditional way (open bleeder, clutch down, close bleeder, clutch up) and while the pedal has a decent feel, it still has a couple inches of play before it gets hard. I've read multiple forums, and all the people who have had similar issues never posted their solutions. Thanks in advance!
P.S
It is not in my budget right now to buy a Tick, so please don't just suggest that! The stock MC should be good enough for stock stuff!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Well everyone, yesterday I tried to hook the mityvac up to and just pump tiny strokes with the clutch pedal. Then for the first time I put the rubber seal in and the cap on the reservoir and it worked! I got it so the wheels would not move with the clutch in and in gear. I don't know exactly what did it, but something did!
On a stock manual car with all those stock parts, we shouldn't need a shim. Did you do the proper measurements to confirm the shim size?
I had similar issues with my last clutch job. I had to close up the system before it would hold pressure. Bleeding the M/C is also really important. We also would tap the pedal really quick to get the last few bubbles out. Too much vacuum also caused problems and just sucked more air into the M/C. (I assume the air came in through the M/C seals.)
I had similar issues with my last clutch job. I had to close up the system before it would hold pressure. Bleeding the M/C is also really important. We also would tap the pedal really quick to get the last few bubbles out. Too much vacuum also caused problems and just sucked more air into the M/C. (I assume the air came in through the M/C seals.)