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I'm sure it sounds a little petty to some, but I installed a Tick MC on my 2000 Camaro SS, when adjusting the clutch pedal stroke what is an average pedal stroke, to the floor, to start at, with the return spring removed? My fear is over extending the new slave or damaging the MC seals.
The spring needs to be removed. When the pedal is to the floor the car should shift with no problem when the engine is running. Adjusting to engaged prior to all the way down is risky in my opinion, the pedal travel depends on where the adjustments end up per the instructions. From Tick's instruction sheet:
The pedal will appear to be about halfway down when compared to its location with the factory cylinder installed. Adjust the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn increments to lengthen the rod (be sure that the rod coming out of the master cylinder itself isn’t spinning). After each adjustment, start the car in neutral and attempt to shift into first gear. If it doesn’t go into gear smoothly, don’t force it (you’ll risk damaging your transmission’s fork pads and/or synchronizers). Simply continue to lengthen the rod until the transmission will slide into first gear smoothly while stopped.
With mine the pedal "helper spring" was removed and the pedal WAS under half way down. It does take a while but by the end my pedal was about 1.5 inches below brake pedal height. One thing that isn't mentioned is your clutch disengaged sensor under the dash (there are 2). You'll need to adjust this so the car "sees" the pedal is up otherwise you'll get a code. I had a unique issue where the clutch was replaced and they mechanic who did that didn't measure things out well and tried using the adjustable pedal to make up for the lack of shims, didn't work. I believe he bent the threaded stud, or the shop who fixed it after him did, but it ended up bent and is now being replaced after leaking. I believe the key here is ensure the threaded stud off the MC itself doesn't rotate when adjusting and lock down the locking nuts well after adjusted.
I think it might be better not to remove the original pedal return spring as you would only have the clutch master cylinder spring to push the pedal back up, clutch master cylinder spring was only intended to push the cylinder back. After I rebuilt the Tick clutch master I reinstalled the original pedal return spring.
Posts below from another thread
Originally Posted by 2000 WS6 Formula
I just went through the same thing, I could still drive it but there was a noticeable difference of the pedal not returning. I ordered a Tilton rebuild kit because I didn't want to pay for a rental while waiting for Tick to rebuild it under warranty as this is my daily driver.
Looks like removing the clutch pedal spring might not be a good idea.
Master Cylinder, Rebuild Kit, .875 in. Bore, Tilton, 75-875RK
Originally Posted by 2000 WS6 Formula
Three years and five months, I replaced the original master cylinder after installing a Monster clutch set up. The original master was thirteen years old, still good but I needed a little more. This is my daily driver, I'm the original owner, same usage and miles.
I sent a email to Tilton asking what they thought happened to the spring, here's the response:
"It looks like high cycle fatigue that causes the coils of the spring to break. We have only seen this happen on our high cycle test bench we have in our testing lab."
I think it might be better not to remove the original pedal return spring as you would only have the clutch master cylinder spring to push the pedal back up, clutch master cylinder spring was only intended to push the cylinder back. After I rebuilt the Tick clutch master I reinstalled the original pedal return spring.
Quick question, does the helper spring than create a "dead zone" of pedal travel between pedal at stock height vs. the pedal at "adjusted height"? The helper spring will be acting in the opposite direction where it will be putting pressure on the back side of the MC internals essentially pulling the cylinder and internals with more force vs no force? Although my stock MC would "stick to the floor" without the fluid pressure to push back and the spring didn't bring the pedal off the floor... I can see your point and this is concerning as my CETA is the my daily driver as well but the fluid return should be pushing the cylinder already, adding pressure here might put extra wear on the back side of the seals too?
03-24-2021, 03:03 PM
New Tick MC pedal stroke 
