SavageHunter11

Long story short, was swapping my LT1 midplate and input shaft onto my T56. While I lightly tapping my midplate with rubber mallet to get the midplate moving I had my 3/4 synchro key retainer spring popped out. Upon further inspection, one of my new billet 3/4 synchro key separated in half.

It looks like bad metal as it looks pourous almost like cheap pot metal. I've gotten both halves of the broken key out. My question is, do I need to tear the transmission all the way down (again) to replace that key? Right now the rearward retainer spring is still in there but the forward retainer spring and all 3 keys are out. I'm sure the answer is yes but was hoping maybe someone who knows more might tell me this isn't as bleak as it seems.

Thanks in advance for the help.

AMP-D

You most likely have the cheaply made so called "billet keys" made from powdered metal. In short, they are junk.

SavageHunter11

They came from Tick Performance so I would assume they're of good quality but apparently not. I have a new unused set of OEM stamped steel keys from GM with the GM retainer spring. Might just use those rather than risk another $60 at Tick

AMP-D

Not sure where they source their keys from but I can tell you if they look like pot metal as you've indicated, they are most likely powder metal. Our keys are 4340 chrome moly and I have never, not once, heard of any breaking under any condition. They also use the factory style spring so the tension is the same but more durable. Not on here selling anything, just putting the information out there so you can make a more educated decision going forward.

SavageHunter11

You got a website or something? I'd be interested.

AMP-D

We aren't a sponsor on here but you can google AMP and transmission parts.

dgcustomz

iTrader: (127)

Yup... you got that pho-billet keys.... not real billet but powdered metal, same thing as the gear box and hawks use. I only buy from this dude ^^^. real Billet and zero issues.

mikedamageinc

iTrader: (49)

This is good to know, I just put your billet 3/4 keys, spring and synchro in my trans, among other parts.

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

Got all my T-56 rebuild parts from Amp...beating on my "billet" keys since 2017...

b00stleak

Shoot...now I'm starting to rethink my keys from Hawks....

AMP-D

They are probably the powdered metal keys but they don't necessarily break easily and are stronger than stock. They just aren't anywhere near as strong as ours and they aren't billet as advertised. A more appropriate description should be solid keys not billet.

Spectre86

iTrader: (42)

never would I have thought that pho cheap billet keys would be a thing. same with the walbro and 044 pumps. so many knock off products out there.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

Here's brand new keys from thegearbox on the right, and a set I just got from G Force on the left. Both claim to be billet keys, but I've had issues with the style on the right.







The key on the right had all of 2 seasons on it. I had no indication it was eating itself, I just happened to have the transmission back apart.







I put stock keys back in over the winter and I shattered 2 of the 3-4 keys in my second race event of this year. I suppose I can check out Amp'd as well. DO NOT buy keys from Tick, TGB, or Hawks because they're hot garbage.

AMP-D

Ours are SAE4340 chrome moly steel and I am not aware of a single failure to date on them. You can retain the factory springs for simplicity as well.

ElQueFør

Old thread I know. But I have had similar experiences buying "billet keys" from supposedly reputable suppliers which have all been mentioned already. I suspect them to all be in fact powdered metal. This is infuriating because it's straight up false advertising.

AMP-D and I may (minimally) disagree on other things, but if there is a next time I have to purchase what is supposed to be billet keys, I will be giving him a try. Because everyone else offering "billet" keys seems to be straight up lying as they are in fact powdered metal instead of billet.

SavageHunter11

​​​​​​I just finished rebuilding my t56 and bought most of my rebuild stuff from AMP. Their billet keys are absolutely of better quality than what was pulled out. I 100% recommend them if you're going to be rebuilding in the future.

Deus96

This. Got my T-56 rebuilt and upgraded by Tick for $4k, and after 700 miles of street only driving my trans got stuck in 4th with a broken key.
Tick said it's out of the warranty period and I'd have to ship it back up to them and spend $500 just for them to look at it. How can you tell me you replaced the key and it break within 700 miles of normal driving if you aren't using bad parts?
Tick Performance seriously dropped the ball.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

I've heard of people removing only the front cover to replace the keys. It's not that bad of a job. I did get the Amp'd keys installed in the box but I hurt 3rd gear again. I suspect I cracked the syncro ring, but haven't taken it apart to see. I'll try to remember to chime back in with a status of health on the Amp'd keys for a comparison.
​​​​​​.

Deus96

That might be a viable option. First quote I got for replacement of just the key was $900 (12 hours labor, seems insane to me)

SavageHunter11

I ended up rebuilding my whole transmission myself to replace the broken key. I definitely understand the 12-hour labor quote.

The thing all say about rebuilding a T56. It's an 11/10 on the intimidation scale but a 4/10 on the Skill Required scale. Wasn't hard, just nerve racking. Get a big bench cleared off, take every piece off one at a time and set it on the bench in the order and orientation you took it off and you'll be fine. For the love of god, take as many pictures of the shift shafts keyways at the front of the transmission before you remove them and then once you feel you've taken enough pictures take more! The shift shaft assembly was the only part I struggled with because 3 pictures was not near enough.