I've been doing a lot of reading and research so I think I have a good idea on my next steps but I'm wondering if maybe my Tick MC wasnt set up correctly by the previous owner hoping to get some feedback:

Car driving cold shifts smoothly no issue. Once the car is warmed up I'm getting issues in shifting into any gear. I know already that I need to flush the MC and will be doing that, as well as looking over the lines and getting some line covers as I just installed LTs so I know that the fluid getting burned can be an issue. Previous owner installed the Tick MC, my clutch pedal sits about 1-2 inchs higher than my brake pedal and the engagement point is just off the floor. Its a really long pedal travel to get the clutch engaged so I'm wondering if I need to do the flush but also make some adjustments to the clutch as well?

Any suggestions or help here greatly appreciated!

 

Download the Tick instructions for the master https://www.tickperformance.com/cont...structions.pdf and From the description it sounds like the last owner had to put too much throw by adjusting way out. Per Tick the pedal should be below OEM height and not above the brake pedal. This makes me wonder if the new clutch was shimmed correctly. Tick has articles and shims for this. The only way to know is to pull the transmission and measure the slave travel length, per the instructions for your clutch/pressure plate. When I replaced everything my pedal was about an inch maybe inch and a half below the brake pedal in height. If the pedal is above the brake pedal there is a lot of travel going on.

 

Appreciate the info and guidance @jybravo70

If the clutch and transmission are still stock (to my knowledge) I could have a bigger issue but from what I've read it sounds like you gotta start at the first place and go through process of elimination on the issue. Car has 97k on it, what can I expect from a stock clutch life if the vehicle has been stock to this point? Also, I know there are major issues that can happen if you start adjusting the pedal travel and engagement point, is there something I should watch for when adjusting the pedal down from where its at now? Essentially, can I just get this back to point 0 and do the adjustment process myself?

 

Clutch life is always subjective, depending on use/abuse and driver aggression. With higher mileage it depends on how well it engages but at 90k plus, it's most likely ready for replacement.

My car had 40k miles on it when problems started. I decided to replace the clutch and found a bad slave, scored flywheel and replaced the master with a Tick adjustable. My biggest plus was adding a speed bleeder line. Flushing the fluid especially if an older component is still used. If you need to replace the clutch make sure to get a kit and replace it all (pressure plate, clutch, flywheel, bearings) replacing the slave will remove it as a future failure point and with the transmission coming out for the rest it's easier and cheaper in the long run to do it all together. Shims come into play with aftermarket parts but measuring to ensure it's working as speed is a good idea.

There's no harm to follow the instructions to readjust the clutch but if it's that far out and working maybe move it down a little and check to see if it makes it worse, better, or no change. When my pedal height got too high I double checked and needed shims, eventually I had to install longer bolts to cover the added shim thickness. If shimming make sure your bolts have enough threads to lock in well and use the correct type of bolts.

 

@jybravo70 Excellent feedback and perspective here, much appreciated!

I'll start with the flush and adjust the pedal per the instructions. Might have to plan on the replacement work in the winter here with the car put up, current plan is the LS7 clutch kit and probably a rebuild on the transmission itself while its out.

thanks again!