slik98z

im makign 340 rwhp and about the same in torque, i will spray the motor on occasion, but i dont drag race, haven't been to a track in nearly a year and dont plan to make it back any time soon. I use my car daily, usually it sees light to moderate traffic. a fair amount of stop lights, and bumpy roads as well. but the weekends i go to my girlfriends house, the bottle goes on and i open up on the open country roads..

which clutch would fit my driving style?

Thanks for the help
Travis

jrp

iTrader: (16)

spec 2

slik98z

will this help keep down on the chatter that i keep reading about?

2 SLOW

i just had a spec stage 3 put in and i'm still on the break in but it feels great, chatters sometimes but never really bad. seems like the problem isn't happening as much with the X pad.

5 Liter Eater

iTrader: (5)

The SPEC II should handle your HP level even with occasional spraying and the disk used in the SPEC II is supposed to be 'chatterless'.

slik98z

ok cool so this spec 2 would be the ultimate choice for a car that never sees the track? i might take it once or twice in the next 2-3 years. and it will only be driven about 3000 miles from september till january. (going back to school).

what about flywheel...if i get my stock one turned will it work fine? and im hearing alot about upgrades to the hydraulics and they 01 slave with the drill mod...are these a must? i dont want to skimp on anything but nor do i wanna buy a bunch of stuff i only absolutely need if i will be racing, which i dont.

thanks for the opinions fellas.
Travis

5 Liter Eater

iTrader: (5)

Upgrading the slave is a must, drill mod is not necessary, and probably not recommended for you as all it does is allow the pressure plate to engage minutely quicker for drag launches. SPEC claims you do not need an adjustable master cylinder with their setup so that may not be needed either.

Should be able to turn your stock flywheel but I would recommend a new one or even a used one so you can get it turned along with the new clutch prior to disassembly. That way it's just a swap out of parts.

slik98z

the shop i take my car too has a machine to turn the flywheel. i've heard a few things about "zero balancing" the flywheel and clutch. down time will be 3 days no matter what (they are pretty swarmed right now at the shop), but it wont cost me anything extra to have the flywheel turned.

how do you zero balance this stuff? i wanna make sure i know everything i can before i take it in to the shop to get the clutch and the install done.
thanks guys
T