budget76

haven't built a GM platform manual setup in the past, been BMW's and a Miata in the nearest past

do I have an issue if my slave spring had to compress slightly when installing my trans?

Mating my AR5 to my LQ9 using the FABbot adapter kit. Everything seems fine, EXCEPT what threw me off is the spring on the slave. I confirmed correct engagement in the pilot bearing using sharpie on the shaft nose, but I had to pull the trans together the last 3/8"-1/2 gently using bolts to overcome the minor spring pressure of the slave.

After pulling it on and off 5x and saying WTF, I was able to confirm the slave surface (green arrow) was contacting the pressure plate fingers and had to compress slightly (red arrow). Its easily compressible by hand way further than I needed so intuition says it doesn't matter, but I haven't had a setup like that before? Dowels started to line up, I was definitely mostly mated before bolts did anything.

Slave was bought right from FABbot for their adapter kit. Clutch is a LUK that matched the F-body part numbers they say are needed. I am pretty confident its the right clutch setup. Everything bolted up happy, I'd just hate to find out its F'd later when it's easy now to yank the whole package back out if needed

normal, or something weird going on?

budget76

no input? guess I'll keep moving fwd and run with it, not seeing how anything could be adjusted to prevent it happening anyway

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

I don't think you'll have any issues. Most of the time, the problems arise when the slave has a gap to the fingers. Which is why they sell spacers. You may want to look into an adjustable master cylinder, however.

budget76

thank you, that was my gut feeling as well but worth asking about

adjustable master is a new concept to me, i'll look into it. nothing on this build is standard, so clutch master is still entirely up in the air

LS1-IROC

iTrader: (4)

Take the spring off the slave and seat it fully down the the TOB. Reinstall and measure the air gap. That's the only way to know for sure if it's correct. Check with the clutch manufacturer on what the air gap is supposed to be....it's usually a .120-.200" spec range for most of the clutches I've seen.