Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

A4 to M6 wiring - PLEASE HELP

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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 09:35 PM
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Default A4 to M6 wiring - PLEASE HELP

OK, I am switching my a4 to a T56. The A4 is out, and all the connectors are disconnected. I have taken out all of the shift linkage assembly, and cut my shifter hole. Anyone who has done this conversion will be of great help. Here is the problem:

There are 6 wires that go into the shifter switch:
1 - orange w/ black stripe
2 - black w/ white stripe
3 - purple with white stripe
4 - dark green
5 - light green
6 - brown

These wires all have to be cut and rewired for the hatch release, reverse lights and park safety switch (the park safety switch needs to be wired to the clutch switch so the car will not start until the clutch is depressed). I have found that the orange w/ black stripe wired to the black w/ white stripe activates the hatch release. I cannot figure out the other two - park safety and reverse. I have tried every remaining combination and I have no reverse lights, nor will the car crank over. Any help will be appreciated. Again, if you have had this done, please inform me of how to wire this back up. Pics will be up soon. Thanks guys.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 04:47 AM
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Picture here. Bright, but it will give you the idea.

http://home.insightbb.com/~ls1power/wires.jpg
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 01:56 PM
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TTT guys, come on.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 03:31 PM
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I'm doing the same conversion right now as well and was wondering the same thing. I have read somewhere on here, that the purple/white wire and the Green (dark or light?) wire go to the clutch. So that leaves the brown and probably Light Green wires for the reverse lights, right? I'll check my helms when I get home as well and see if I can decipher it..

BTW, when you cut your hole in the tunnel for the shifter, did you put the tranny in for the measurement? Was wondering if you could give me some measurements on where to cut the hole at, hole dimensions, etc. Or anyone with a M6 out there with easy access for some measurements..

Thanks,
Dan
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
I'm doing the same conversion right now as well and was wondering the same thing. I have read somewhere on here, that the purple/white wire and the Green (dark or light?) wire go to the clutch. So that leaves the brown and probably Light Green wires for the reverse lights, right? I'll check my helms when I get home as well and see if I can decipher it..

BTW, when you cut your hole in the tunnel for the shifter, did you put the tranny in for the measurement? Was wondering if you could give me some measurements on where to cut the hole at, hole dimensions, etc. Or anyone with a M6 out there with easy access for some measurements..

Thanks,
Dan
I too heard green, but which one? Dark or light? As far as cutting your hole, mount your console with the 6spd console tray without the boot installed. Take a sharpie marker, and mark off the edges of this hole. Then, Use a drill bit and drill the 4 corners out. From here, I used a sawzall and cut the hole out. This also still leaves the proper amount of metal to mount your lower shift boot.

Let me know if you figure this wiring thing out Dan.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 10:26 PM
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Ok, through browsing the helms maual, it looks like we were wrong. If you activated the trunk release with the BLK/WHT and ORG/BLK, not sure how that worked.

According to what I found:
1. PPL/WHT and DK GREEN are for the Clutch pedal position switch.
2. ORG/BLK and BLK/WHT are for the Park Neutral Position Switch.
3. BRN and LT GREEN are for the back up lamps.

Not sure there is a hookup for the hatch release here, I think it only works when the park neatral switch is activated or something..I need to look into it when I get more time..

Dan
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
Ok, through browsing the helms maual, it looks like we were wrong. If you activated the trunk release with the BLK/WHT and ORG/BLK, not sure how that worked.

According to what I found:
1. PPL/WHT and DK GREEN are for the Clutch pedal position switch.
2. ORG/BLK and BLK/WHT are for the Park Neutral Position Switch.
3. BRN and LT GREEN are for the back up lamps.

Not sure there is a hookup for the hatch release here, I think it only works when the park neatral switch is activated or something..I need to look into it when I get more time..

Dan
Nope, the park neutral switch and the clutch pedal position switch are one in the same. The park neutral switch wires become the clutch switch wires.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 11:35 AM
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Here is the pin out:

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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 04:09 PM
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I still cant get the car to crank at all.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 06:32 PM
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I am going to hand myself. This is so aggravating.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 06:46 PM
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What wires are you hooking to what?
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 07:02 PM
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I have tried many ways. I have blown fuses out the azz.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 07:49 PM
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This should do it:
(https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=a4+m6+wiring)
we already figured it out lastnight, but for anyone doing a search, since its not posted anywhere else online, heres how it goes...

the purple with white stripe wire and the green wire from the orignal auto shifter connector must be connected before the car will start...

extend them to the clutch pedal and connect them to the clutch switch...

when the clutch is fully depressed, it presses the switch, connecting the purple/white wire to the green... the car should then start..


this is for any car that was a auto, with a manual swapped in, that retained the interior automatic wiring.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
This should do it:
(https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=a4+m6+wiring)
we already figured it out lastnight, but for anyone doing a search, since its not posted anywhere else online, heres how it goes...

the purple with white stripe wire and the green wire from the orignal auto shifter connector must be connected before the car will start...

extend them to the clutch pedal and connect them to the clutch switch...

when the clutch is fully depressed, it presses the switch, connecting the purple/white wire to the green... the car should then start..


this is for any car that was a auto, with a manual swapped in, that retained the interior automatic wiring.
I have tried this Levi. One of 2 things happens. Nothing, or blown fuses. I have blown my gauges fuse, turn/BU fuse, and starter fuse several times. I am talking with Gordon of PPC about how he did his. Hopefully, his advice will have my car running tomorrow.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 01:34 AM
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Hmm, I bought the car from cody, so if he cant help you im not of much help either, but i will pull the center of the car apart and let you know what I see when i get a chance. I still havent wired the BU lights or the hatch. So what your saying is to get my hatch working all i do cut the orange/black and black/white and put the ends together and when i press the button on the key fob, the hatch should pop?
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 01:42 AM
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What if you tie the PPL/WHT and DK GREEN wires together, don't put them on the clutch switch, this should work as well. It sounds like once the PCM see's voltage in this circuit, it allows the starter to crank. There may be other varibles like having the rest of the wiring hooked up right as well. Are you using your factory A4 PCM harness, or did you get an M6 harnesss? Did you flash your PCM to an M6?

I'm not far enough along to try mine yet, so post back what you find out..

Dan
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by stang killer
Hmm, I bought the car from cody, so if he cant help you im not of much help either, but i will pull the center of the car apart and let you know what I see when i get a chance. I still havent wired the BU lights or the hatch. So what your saying is to get my hatch working all i do cut the orange/black and black/white and put the ends together and when i press the button on the key fob, the hatch should pop?
Yes, if you tie those two wires together, your hatch release should work...

Dan
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 01:41 PM
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ok just checking cause that just sounded way too easy.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 02:21 PM
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Yes Stang Killer, orng/black + blk/wht will allow your hatch release to work. Trust me, mine works.

I have not connected anything to the clutch switch yet Dan, I have connected the wires to form the circuit and attempted to start the vehicle with no positive results.

Dan, I would appreciate it if you checked out those wires.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 02:22 PM
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Man, there's no way I'd be futzing around w/ wiring without a wiring diagram (Helms) handy...this is why...
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