M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
10-21-2010, 01:04 PM
#581
this link was PMed to me from "THE MERV". its his writeup from his lt1 car. it should be a sticky by itself. figured it might be helpfull to future lookers
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...onversion.html
thanks again merv you are awsome!!!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...onversion.html
thanks again merv you are awsome!!!
10-21-2010, 07:58 PM
#582
this link may also help. it is about a guy that THOUGHT he messed up his wiring but come to find out his starter went bad. Anyways it a couple more pic of some swap wireing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ap-wiring.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ap-wiring.html
10-25-2010, 09:52 PM
#583
also got my pig tail off ebay.
copy paste this into the ebay seach:
T56 CONNECTOR SET (BACKUP LIGHTS, REV LOCKOUT & VSS)
they are the cheapest i have found.
also i found a plate that bolts to the firewall and gives extra support for you master cylinder. it also gives you a stencil to drill your firewall.
search e bay for :
LS1 T-56 Conversion Clutch Slave Cylinder Bracket
copy paste this into the ebay seach:
T56 CONNECTOR SET (BACKUP LIGHTS, REV LOCKOUT & VSS)
they are the cheapest i have found.
also i found a plate that bolts to the firewall and gives extra support for you master cylinder. it also gives you a stencil to drill your firewall.
search e bay for :
LS1 T-56 Conversion Clutch Slave Cylinder Bracket
11-06-2010, 02:48 PM
#584
just a couple little tips i think might me helpful to some :
1. get or rent a tranny jack. the bottom on a t56 isnt flat like an auto. so installing with a jack and a piece of wood is a PITA
2. when you are torquing your 6 pressure plate bolts down, make sure your alignment tool slips in and out EASILY. When your are torquing the PP, it tightens on the clutch disk. this sometimes can BIND the alignment tool bc the DISK moves around a little as you are tightening your PP bolts. So just make sure that as you are tightening, keep making sure that you are "completely" aligned. Just keep making sure that the alignment tool slips in an out FREELY as you tighten.
Even tho i used the alighment tool, i played hell getting my input shaft into the TObearing. i eventually had to pull the bellhousing and PP to realign my clutch disk. PITA
1. get or rent a tranny jack. the bottom on a t56 isnt flat like an auto. so installing with a jack and a piece of wood is a PITA
2. when you are torquing your 6 pressure plate bolts down, make sure your alignment tool slips in and out EASILY. When your are torquing the PP, it tightens on the clutch disk. this sometimes can BIND the alignment tool bc the DISK moves around a little as you are tightening your PP bolts. So just make sure that as you are tightening, keep making sure that you are "completely" aligned. Just keep making sure that the alignment tool slips in an out FREELY as you tighten.
Even tho i used the alighment tool, i played hell getting my input shaft into the TObearing. i eventually had to pull the bellhousing and PP to realign my clutch disk. PITA
11-07-2010, 05:11 PM
#585
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Yes, definitely rent or buy a trans jack. When I did my swap I borrowed one, when I replaced my TO bearing this year I tried using a regular jack and two bottle jacks to get it level. Let me tell you, when that thing falls on the floor, it is damn near impossible to get it back into place. I ended up strongarming it onto two jackstands and welding up a cradle for my floor jack to make it work.
11-07-2010, 08:59 PM
#586
finally finished my swap today. freaking love it. MAYBE no as fast as my stalled auto but twice as fun to drive.
before i finished up i went to bestbuy and bought some dynamat for like 19 bucks and insulated around my shifter hole. Not sure if it helps but deff didnt hurt.
also learned that a 98 auto column has a different cig lighter then a 02 m6 console. i couldnt hook it up bc connections are different. heres a pic of the diff. ill probably just cut the correct pigtail out of a junker sometime in the future.
before i finished up i went to bestbuy and bought some dynamat for like 19 bucks and insulated around my shifter hole. Not sure if it helps but deff didnt hurt.
also learned that a 98 auto column has a different cig lighter then a 02 m6 console. i couldnt hook it up bc connections are different. heres a pic of the diff. ill probably just cut the correct pigtail out of a junker sometime in the future.
09-10-2011, 09:33 PM
#588
dude, the flux will save you alot of time and aggervation. but no, sorry not ""clif notes"" for this project. take your time and read though it. youll be amazed at what youll lean
02-21-2012, 04:43 PM
#590
Not trying to bring this thread back to life! but alot of useful info on here! Thanks a lot guys!! Swapping a ls1/t56 into my 96 Ws6 Auto car was a nightmare! This helped me out a bit!
03-19-2012, 05:20 AM
#591
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I am currently in the process of this swap myself. I had a M6 car, and got into an accident. The M6 car was trashed, but I was able to save the drive train. I found an A4 car, and swapped everything over. I am stuck on the neutral safety switch. Mine is white, and has a black plug with 4 wires in it. Pink, Grey/white, Black/white, and brown. I don't know which to wires to hook the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green wires to make the car start. I can put them together, and it will start. But, I would like to do this the right way. All help appreciated thanks.
01-16-2013, 08:32 PM
#592
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Im in a situation like ^^^^^^^ I have the whole parts car including harness and everything. What wiring is no longer necessary if you have complete harness? And I guess its a must to take out the steering column huh? smh
03-28-2013, 08:18 PM
#594
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Will an auto harness directly plug into a 6speed car with a 6speed?
After reading this thread is seems like you would just need to lengthen the VSS wires.
Reason I ask is that I have a harness with corrosion and serious issues. PCM plug got water and rusted the pins. Also have multiple wires cut from previous owner trying to repair. There are literally no 6 speed harnesses available anywhere.
After reading this thread is seems like you would just need to lengthen the VSS wires.
Reason I ask is that I have a harness with corrosion and serious issues. PCM plug got water and rusted the pins. Also have multiple wires cut from previous owner trying to repair. There are literally no 6 speed harnesses available anywhere.
02-21-2014, 11:06 PM
#595
Will an auto harness directly plug into a 6speed car with a 6speed?
After reading this thread is seems like you would just need to lengthen the VSS wires.
Reason I ask is that I have a harness with corrosion and serious issues. PCM plug got water and rusted the pins. Also have multiple wires cut from previous owner trying to repair. There are literally no 6 speed harnesses available anywhere.
After reading this thread is seems like you would just need to lengthen the VSS wires.
Reason I ask is that I have a harness with corrosion and serious issues. PCM plug got water and rusted the pins. Also have multiple wires cut from previous owner trying to repair. There are literally no 6 speed harnesses available anywhere.
I did a full m6 harness swap and to be honest it was redundant and un necessary. Even with the t56 harness you still need to do all the interior wiring. Just get the 3 pig tails for the t56. The wiring was simple once i laid the t56 pedals pig tails out next to the factory a4 stuff. The only benefit to swapping to the m6 harness is you will have a working reverse lock out switch once you flash your tune to t56
The most helpful part for me was having a complete pedal assembly with sensors and the m6 pig tails. You will want to get the full pedal assembly with sensors and pig tails. I believe the v6 cars are the same. Careful the sensors and plastic pieces on your pedals will be prone to break.
The clutch depression switch is wired in line with the brake depression switch, the clutch sensor has 4 wires on it. 2 are pink and brown the other 2 are white and grey. The white and grey are relayed signals from the brake depression switch, so just cut the head off of the factory a4 2 pin plug and wire it onto the brake drepresion switch, it is the small plug above the big plug on the brake pedal assembly. This is to take cruise control off when you press the clutch. Again I just wired them with the brake sensor, so the brown and pink wires for the brake depressions switch I wired to the white and grey wires which plug into the clutch switch, come back out of the clutch depression switch as pink and brown.
The neutral safety switch is on the back side of the pedal assembly. You run your green \ purple wire to them. You can just connect them together and not run the wires but the cruise control will not work because the computer sees the clutch as being depressed.
The cable coming out of the column to the shifter can be cut or disconnected at the column. It's purpose was just to disable you from being able to start the car in anything other than neutral or park when you were an automatic.
I had solid motor mounts and a bad cam position sensor and knock sensors so I had to take off my intake manifold. It was easy to get the top bolts off from the trans, my advice is when you are putting the t56 bell housing on the transmission I suggest sliding in the top 3 bolts because in my engine bay with solid motor mounts I could not slide them in because of the firewall.
I did my swap in my garage on the top notch of the jack stands. I removed the factory auto trans myself using a floor jack with the lifting plate removed so the surface was flat. To get the trans out from under the car I went and jacked the car up a few inches by the k member. That way the top of the trans can slide out from under the car on a piece of card board.
For the t56 install I had my wife help me place the trans on my jack and balance it. Once I was sure it was balanced evenly I had her get out from under the car and lightly pump the jack while i stayed under the car and balanced the trans on the jack. Be extremely patient and move the jack forward and backward as necessary. Once it was high enough and I could feel the output shaft in the pilot I started threading the trans crossmember to support the back side of the trans. I then had my wife come back down and help me slide the transmission fully into the pilot bearing and clutch. Again I had solid motor mounts so my engine did not sag at all so your experience may differ. I was also strong enough to lift the trans myself so I was confident in my balancing technique and back up plan lol
The only confusing thing for me on wiring is the m6 pedals only had 2 wires going into the brake plug for the lights, and the a4 has 4 wires. I'm guessing the other 2 wires were to let the car know you had the brake pedal pressed to release the shifter to let you shift from park to drive.
If anyone has new questions pm me. I have been active on the board for 9 years and will own my fbody for at least another 20 years
Last edited by chrysler kid; 02-22-2014 at 12:25 AM.
02-24-2014, 07:27 AM
#598
You can take the a4 pedals out without removing the column, however the 6 speed pedals need to have the column removed to put them in. The column was 15 minutes to remove. Just unplug everything and there are 4 bolts securing the column to the dash and the bolts on the firewall then the bolt under the hood. To be honest taking out the column should be step one will save you a lot of arm cramps and time
Bumping because I just finished my conversion using this thread
I did a full m6 harness swap and to be honest it was redundant and un necessary. Even with the t56 harness you still need to do all the interior wiring. Just get the 3 pig tails for the t56. The wiring was simple once i laid the t56 pedals pig tails out next to the factory a4 stuff. The only benefit to swapping to the m6 harness is you will have a working reverse lock out switch once you flash your tune to t56
The most helpful part for me was having a complete pedal assembly with sensors and the m6 pig tails. You will want to get the full pedal assembly with sensors and pig tails. I believe the v6 cars are the same. Careful the sensors and plastic pieces on your pedals will be prone to break.
The clutch depression switch is wired in line with the brake depression switch, the clutch sensor has 4 wires on it. 2 are pink and brown the other 2 are white and grey. The white and grey are relayed signals from the brake depression switch, so just cut the head off of the factory a4 2 pin plug and wire it onto the brake drepresion switch, it is the small plug above the big plug on the brake pedal assembly. This is to take cruise control off when you press the clutch. Again I just wired them with the brake sensor, so the brown and pink wires for the brake depressions switch I wired to the white and grey wires which plug into the clutch switch, come back out of the clutch depression switch as pink and brown.
The neutral safety switch is on the back side of the pedal assembly. You run your green \ purple wire to them. You can just connect them together and not run the wires but the cruise control will not work because the computer sees the clutch as being depressed.
The cable coming out of the column to the shifter can be cut or disconnected at the column. It's purpose was just to disable you from being able to start the car in anything other than neutral or park when you were an automatic.
I had solid motor mounts and a bad cam position sensor and knock sensors so I had to take off my intake manifold. It was easy to get the top bolts off from the trans, my advice is when you are putting the t56 bell housing on the transmission I suggest sliding in the top 3 bolts because in my engine bay with solid motor mounts I could not slide them in because of the firewall.
I did my swap in my garage on the top notch of the jack stands. I removed the factory auto trans myself using a floor jack with the lifting plate removed so the surface was flat. To get the trans out from under the car I went and jacked the car up a few inches by the k member. That way the top of the trans can slide out from under the car on a piece of card board.
For the t56 install I had my wife help me place the trans on my jack and balance it. Once I was sure it was balanced evenly I had her get out from under the car and lightly pump the jack while i stayed under the car and balanced the trans on the jack. Be extremely patient and move the jack forward and backward as necessary. Once it was high enough and I could feel the output shaft in the pilot I started threading the trans crossmember to support the back side of the trans. I then had my wife come back down and help me slide the transmission fully into the pilot bearing and clutch. Again I had solid motor mounts so my engine did not sag at all so your experience may differ. I was also strong enough to lift the trans myself so I was confident in my balancing technique and back up plan lol
The only confusing thing for me on wiring is the m6 pedals only had 2 wires going into the brake plug for the lights, and the a4 has 4 wires. I'm guessing the other 2 wires were to let the car know you had the brake pedal pressed to release the shifter to let you shift from park to drive.
If anyone has new questions pm me. I have been active on the board for 9 years and will own my fbody for at least another 20 years
Bumping because I just finished my conversion using this thread
I did a full m6 harness swap and to be honest it was redundant and un necessary. Even with the t56 harness you still need to do all the interior wiring. Just get the 3 pig tails for the t56. The wiring was simple once i laid the t56 pedals pig tails out next to the factory a4 stuff. The only benefit to swapping to the m6 harness is you will have a working reverse lock out switch once you flash your tune to t56
The most helpful part for me was having a complete pedal assembly with sensors and the m6 pig tails. You will want to get the full pedal assembly with sensors and pig tails. I believe the v6 cars are the same. Careful the sensors and plastic pieces on your pedals will be prone to break.
The clutch depression switch is wired in line with the brake depression switch, the clutch sensor has 4 wires on it. 2 are pink and brown the other 2 are white and grey. The white and grey are relayed signals from the brake depression switch, so just cut the head off of the factory a4 2 pin plug and wire it onto the brake drepresion switch, it is the small plug above the big plug on the brake pedal assembly. This is to take cruise control off when you press the clutch. Again I just wired them with the brake sensor, so the brown and pink wires for the brake depressions switch I wired to the white and grey wires which plug into the clutch switch, come back out of the clutch depression switch as pink and brown.
The neutral safety switch is on the back side of the pedal assembly. You run your green \ purple wire to them. You can just connect them together and not run the wires but the cruise control will not work because the computer sees the clutch as being depressed.
The cable coming out of the column to the shifter can be cut or disconnected at the column. It's purpose was just to disable you from being able to start the car in anything other than neutral or park when you were an automatic.
I had solid motor mounts and a bad cam position sensor and knock sensors so I had to take off my intake manifold. It was easy to get the top bolts off from the trans, my advice is when you are putting the t56 bell housing on the transmission I suggest sliding in the top 3 bolts because in my engine bay with solid motor mounts I could not slide them in because of the firewall.
I did my swap in my garage on the top notch of the jack stands. I removed the factory auto trans myself using a floor jack with the lifting plate removed so the surface was flat. To get the trans out from under the car I went and jacked the car up a few inches by the k member. That way the top of the trans can slide out from under the car on a piece of card board.
For the t56 install I had my wife help me place the trans on my jack and balance it. Once I was sure it was balanced evenly I had her get out from under the car and lightly pump the jack while i stayed under the car and balanced the trans on the jack. Be extremely patient and move the jack forward and backward as necessary. Once it was high enough and I could feel the output shaft in the pilot I started threading the trans crossmember to support the back side of the trans. I then had my wife come back down and help me slide the transmission fully into the pilot bearing and clutch. Again I had solid motor mounts so my engine did not sag at all so your experience may differ. I was also strong enough to lift the trans myself so I was confident in my balancing technique and back up plan lol
The only confusing thing for me on wiring is the m6 pedals only had 2 wires going into the brake plug for the lights, and the a4 has 4 wires. I'm guessing the other 2 wires were to let the car know you had the brake pedal pressed to release the shifter to let you shift from park to drive.
If anyone has new questions pm me. I have been active on the board for 9 years and will own my fbody for at least another 20 years
Also reverse lockout can be easily wired using the auto harness. You would just repin the TCC lockout tan wire in the pcm (very easy) then cut that wire from the auto harness plug and run it to reverse lockout. This will work once the m6 tune is swapped in.
Also if your car is a 99-up wiring only the 2 wires to the brack pedal for cruise will not work. When the m6 tune is swapped in the pcm will look for those other 2 pink wires coming from the switch to activate cruise control. ONe of the wires needs to get wired to the pcm and the other needs to be grounded without this cruise will not function on the m6 tune. I used one of the wires on the brake pedal switch... more on that in a sec
Last the reason the brake switch has so many more wires is that they were used to control TCC lockup on the auto. Most of those wires are no longer used. I found that the purple wire used to control tcc llockup. I simply repinned this wire in the pcm to the clutch position switch and wired it to the clutch pedal then for the other unused wire on the clutch pedal i just grounded it to the body and everything works.
If you have any questions i documented it all in my writeup. In my car everything works just like a factory m6 car would
02-28-2014, 08:57 PM
#599
*sigh* gm master cylinder failed out of the box new. Does not provide enough pressure to the slave, the car will not go into any gear while running. Pedal feels light compared to my wife's ta. I have the clutch shimmed properly so it's either the slave or the master.
Luckily I have two autozone masters sitting around, just would have preferred oem. Runs good though fired on first crank
Luckily I have two autozone masters sitting around, just would have preferred oem. Runs good though fired on first crank
01-13-2016, 02:46 PM
#600
I am currently converting a 2001 Z28 from M6 to A4 and will be converting a 2001 TA from A4 to M6. Basically I am putting my A4 in his car and his M6 in my car.
I have the swap done, I have to load in the new auto tune for his Z28. Question I have is about wiring. Currently we have to press in the clutch switch to start the car, plus no reverse lights. Any help or diagrams for that?
I have the swap done, I have to load in the new auto tune for his Z28. Question I have is about wiring. Currently we have to press in the clutch switch to start the car, plus no reverse lights. Any help or diagrams for that?
Last edited by nastybuzzard; 01-14-2016 at 05:18 AM.