Build a pressure bleeder for your clutch.
12-19-2004, 04:37 PM
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Build a pressure bleeder for your clutch. I tried the vacuum method and the manual method but neither work well. This works excellent and no mess.
Do the transmission housing mod and the bleeder screw mod as described in other threads. They are not required but make the job easier and cleaner.
Purchase a plastic insecticide pressure sprayer at your local hardware store. It should run you about 15 bucks. I used the small RL Flo-master. Lots of pics of them on the net.
Assemble it and then cut the spray wand short so that there is only about 2 inches of piping left. On that, join one of your pointed nipples from your mity vac to the wand with a small piece of plastic tubing. Put some break fluid (enough so it doesn’t run dry letting air into the system) into the sprayer tank, pump it up, flood the supply line to purge any air by pressing the button on the spray wand. You now have a pressure bleeder.
Put the pointed end into the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Press the button to purge any air in the mighty vac nipple, then press it into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir. Open the bleeder, press the button on the wand and wait 5. If you’ve used the bleeder mod, put a piece of plastic tubing onto the bleeder and into a reservoir jar . You can see the air purge as its pushed through the hydraulic system. If this is your first time, you will see the diry fluid being pushed through. When it’s clear, you’ve completely replaced the fluid. Close the bleeder, remove the wand and you’re done.
Only messy thing is if you don’t notice the sprayer wand has a catch on it to lock it open. If you miss that, when you pull it out of the reservoir, you’ll have break fluid everywhere.
I also used it to bench bleed my master. By elevating the end where the pressure line goes in, holding the valve on the pressure line fitting open with a small piece of plastic, I purged the air in a couple of minutes. It doesn’t get easier than this.
cmac
Do the transmission housing mod and the bleeder screw mod as described in other threads. They are not required but make the job easier and cleaner.
Purchase a plastic insecticide pressure sprayer at your local hardware store. It should run you about 15 bucks. I used the small RL Flo-master. Lots of pics of them on the net.
Assemble it and then cut the spray wand short so that there is only about 2 inches of piping left. On that, join one of your pointed nipples from your mity vac to the wand with a small piece of plastic tubing. Put some break fluid (enough so it doesn’t run dry letting air into the system) into the sprayer tank, pump it up, flood the supply line to purge any air by pressing the button on the spray wand. You now have a pressure bleeder.
Put the pointed end into the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Press the button to purge any air in the mighty vac nipple, then press it into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir. Open the bleeder, press the button on the wand and wait 5. If you’ve used the bleeder mod, put a piece of plastic tubing onto the bleeder and into a reservoir jar . You can see the air purge as its pushed through the hydraulic system. If this is your first time, you will see the diry fluid being pushed through. When it’s clear, you’ve completely replaced the fluid. Close the bleeder, remove the wand and you’re done.
Only messy thing is if you don’t notice the sprayer wand has a catch on it to lock it open. If you miss that, when you pull it out of the reservoir, you’ll have break fluid everywhere.
I also used it to bench bleed my master. By elevating the end where the pressure line goes in, holding the valve on the pressure line fitting open with a small piece of plastic, I purged the air in a couple of minutes. It doesn’t get easier than this.
cmac
