Like I shifted into reverse...
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I think you have failed to read so... The power, that would be the 12volts supplied externally, is what makes the load on the solenoid diminish. The spring load in the mechanism does not "stick" it cannot "stick" - have any of you seen this mechanism? It would seem not and would also seem that even fewer know what they are posting about. As I have said before, if the solenoid gave up it would be at the higher load NOT lower .
BTW I am not just postulating here I do know what I speak of . I see these units daily and have done so since '90.
BTW I am not just postulating here I do know what I speak of . I see these units daily and have done so since '90.
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Originally Posted by calhoon
I think you have failed to read so... The power, that would be the 12volts supplied externally, is what makes the load on the solenoid diminish. The spring load in the mechanism does not "stick" it cannot "stick" - have any of you seen this mechanism? It would seem not and would also seem that even fewer know what they are posting about. As I have said before, if the solenoid gave up it would be at the higher load NOT lower .
BTW I am not just postulating here I do know what I speak of . I see these units daily and have done so since '90.
BTW I am not just postulating here I do know what I speak of . I see these units daily and have done so since '90.
No offense, but youve got multiple accounts of this happening to different people in different cars. Some have aftermarket programming, others do not. Something is definately happening here.
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Originally Posted by calhoon
I think you have failed to read so... The power, that would be the 12volts supplied externally, is what makes the load on the solenoid diminish. The spring load in the mechanism does not "stick" it cannot "stick" - have any of you seen this mechanism? It would seem not and would also seem that even fewer know what they are posting about. As I have said before, if the solenoid gave up it would be at the higher load NOT lower .
BTW I am not just postulating here I do know what I speak of . I see these units daily and have done so since '90.
BTW I am not just postulating here I do know what I speak of . I see these units daily and have done so since '90.
What your saying "if the solenoid gave up/failed it woud be at a higher load not lower" Thats fine and all but it aint happening were all experiencing easier efforts in putting into reverse not harder. I performed my search and there are numerous accounts of people not getting it into reverse but there is a hand full of people that are having this problem. What im getting from you is that somewhere something is supplying 12 volts to the solenoid when it's not soposed to be causing it not to work correctly is that what you saying? If so in my case then something from the outside is supplying about 6 volts because i have resistance putting my car into reverse it's just not enough to stop me or someone else from doing so.
FWIW: I can still put the tranny in reverse with the key off, it takes the same amount of effort.... Stiff but can still go into reverse.
Since you work on these daily wanna shoot me a good working one so i feel better about shifting gears?
Last edited by SmokedOutZ28; 01-12-2006 at 09:40 AM.
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With the afternmarket stuff you get what ya bought- may not be what they said or what ya want - got warranty?- read it carefully.
If your load is high into reverse vehicle at rest / the same with the key on or off, the solenoid is not being powered. This thread has gone in several directions some high load some no load issues. They are not all the same , while I will agree there is (are) concern (s)here . To continue to spout that they have a common / only one mode is more a case of armchair bitching. I was trying to help and some here seem to want to debate- Im not interested.
As to shooting you a good one - I don't give them away, just offer free help.
If your load is high into reverse vehicle at rest / the same with the key on or off, the solenoid is not being powered. This thread has gone in several directions some high load some no load issues. They are not all the same , while I will agree there is (are) concern (s)here . To continue to spout that they have a common / only one mode is more a case of armchair bitching. I was trying to help and some here seem to want to debate- Im not interested.
As to shooting you a good one - I don't give them away, just offer free help.
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Originally Posted by calhoon
With the afternmarket stuff you get what ya bought- may not be what they said or what ya want - got warranty?- read it carefully.
If your load is high into reverse vehicle at rest / the same with the key on or off, the solenoid is not being powered.
If your load is high into reverse vehicle at rest / the same with the key on or off, the solenoid is not being powered.
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I have the same thing happen to me on occasion. It seems to happen more often when the car is cold. I'll be driving normally, no hard shifts or anything, and going from 4th to 5th I can feel the shifter going further to the right than normal and it will grind if I complete the shift. When I was under warranty I tried to get it fixed, but they couldn't replicate the problem.
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Smoked,
I guess I am confused.Seems like you have an oposite expectation but from what you've said, you car is functioning as designed.I think you have not heard me - This is NOT a reverse lock out ,it is an inhibitor. You will NEVER have reverse unavailable (albeit high load)
Key off, parked will give you HIGH reverse effort. key on parked or below 3-5MPH will give you lighter load = ONLY IF the ecm delivers 12V. If you have a light load at any other time , you ecm programming is incorrect OR you have the plugs reversed ( for skip shift).
There is no reason to think leaving the shifter in reverse would cause extra wear.
I guess I am confused.Seems like you have an oposite expectation but from what you've said, you car is functioning as designed.I think you have not heard me - This is NOT a reverse lock out ,it is an inhibitor. You will NEVER have reverse unavailable (albeit high load)
Key off, parked will give you HIGH reverse effort. key on parked or below 3-5MPH will give you lighter load = ONLY IF the ecm delivers 12V. If you have a light load at any other time , you ecm programming is incorrect OR you have the plugs reversed ( for skip shift).
There is no reason to think leaving the shifter in reverse would cause extra wear.
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Originally Posted by calhoon
Smoked,
I guess I am confused.Seems like you have an oposite expectation but from what you've said, you car is functioning as designed.I think you have not heard me - This is NOT a reverse lock out ,it is an inhibitor. You will NEVER have reverse unavailable (albeit high load)
Key off, parked will give you HIGH reverse effort. key on parked or below 3-5MPH will give you lighter load = ONLY IF the ecm delivers 12V. If you have a light load at any other time , you ecm programming is incorrect OR you have the plugs reversed ( for skip shift).
There is no reason to think leaving the shifter in reverse would cause extra wear.
I guess I am confused.Seems like you have an oposite expectation but from what you've said, you car is functioning as designed.I think you have not heard me - This is NOT a reverse lock out ,it is an inhibitor. You will NEVER have reverse unavailable (albeit high load)
Key off, parked will give you HIGH reverse effort. key on parked or below 3-5MPH will give you lighter load = ONLY IF the ecm delivers 12V. If you have a light load at any other time , you ecm programming is incorrect OR you have the plugs reversed ( for skip shift).
There is no reason to think leaving the shifter in reverse would cause extra wear.
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Good lord, this just happened to me today when driving home from work. I went right into reverse when trying to get into 5th. It scared the crap out of me.
Everything is stock, it's never happened before, and it was about 45 or 50 degrees out.
Everything is stock, it's never happened before, and it was about 45 or 50 degrees out.
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How about this scenario...
Obviously to release the solenoid it is recieving power at some point or another. What if the solenoid is binding due to corrosion/wear. He starts the car when it's cold, possible moisture freezing, tightening tolerances etc.... PCM triggers the solenoid, he puts it in reverse. The solenoid has no load so it retracts easily, but doesn't return because it's mechanically bound up. Now he drives normally and doesn't even realize the solenoid is stuck because he wont get into 5th or 6th until freeway speeds. When he does, the solenoid is still stuck retracted due to a mechanical problem in the solenoid and therefore allows an easy shift into reverse. Potentially, contact of the shifter to the solenoid could be enough to free it and subsequent reverse shifts wouldn't be possible.
Doesn't sounds like it could be a skip-shift issue because it's happening at freeway speeds and I don't think the PCM should command the skip shift solenoid under those conditions. From a GM TSB: The conditions for this feature are: engine coolant at normal operating temperature, vehicle speed of 24-31 km/h (15-19 mph), 21% or less throttle being used (refer to Service Information or the Owner's Manual for more details.)
If it were my car I'd pull the shifter off the top of the trans and take a quick look at the lockout solenoid to see if anything looks out of wack or possibly the shifter is managing to get around the solenoid (unlikely). If nothing was obvious I'd probably remove the solenoid from the trans, inspect it and potentially replace it. Hell, if you really wanted to backyard mechanic the problem you could even pull the solenoid and fish the harness into the driver compartment where you could test it as you were driving.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com has the solenoid for a '00 for 101.32
Of course this all assumes you're not just smashing the shifter into reverse and overpowering the solenoid. Just my .02
Obviously to release the solenoid it is recieving power at some point or another. What if the solenoid is binding due to corrosion/wear. He starts the car when it's cold, possible moisture freezing, tightening tolerances etc.... PCM triggers the solenoid, he puts it in reverse. The solenoid has no load so it retracts easily, but doesn't return because it's mechanically bound up. Now he drives normally and doesn't even realize the solenoid is stuck because he wont get into 5th or 6th until freeway speeds. When he does, the solenoid is still stuck retracted due to a mechanical problem in the solenoid and therefore allows an easy shift into reverse. Potentially, contact of the shifter to the solenoid could be enough to free it and subsequent reverse shifts wouldn't be possible.
Doesn't sounds like it could be a skip-shift issue because it's happening at freeway speeds and I don't think the PCM should command the skip shift solenoid under those conditions. From a GM TSB: The conditions for this feature are: engine coolant at normal operating temperature, vehicle speed of 24-31 km/h (15-19 mph), 21% or less throttle being used (refer to Service Information or the Owner's Manual for more details.)
If it were my car I'd pull the shifter off the top of the trans and take a quick look at the lockout solenoid to see if anything looks out of wack or possibly the shifter is managing to get around the solenoid (unlikely). If nothing was obvious I'd probably remove the solenoid from the trans, inspect it and potentially replace it. Hell, if you really wanted to backyard mechanic the problem you could even pull the solenoid and fish the harness into the driver compartment where you could test it as you were driving.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com has the solenoid for a '00 for 101.32
Of course this all assumes you're not just smashing the shifter into reverse and overpowering the solenoid. Just my .02
Last edited by Mike44138; 01-18-2006 at 12:02 PM.
#31
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Searching!
Mine just did the same damn thing today and its 90 degrees in TX. Its not just related to cold. The car was up to temp and I was on the hwy in 6th. I tried to shift into 5th and it went in to reverse instead. It can't actually ingage in reverse but it did grind like hell. It took me 3 times to firgure out that it was reverse and not 5th that was grinding. It had zero problems sliding into reverse at speeds it shouldn't be doing it at. This was just normal shifting and the tranny and PCM is completely stock.
I was also able to put the tranny in reverse like a hot knife thru butter with the car off in the driveway with the keys in my pocket. Same with the keys in.
Whats going on? I'm getting at that it might be my PCM sending the solonoid voltage when it shouldn't be.
Later I drove it and its fine. It works as it should.
Mine just did the same damn thing today and its 90 degrees in TX. Its not just related to cold. The car was up to temp and I was on the hwy in 6th. I tried to shift into 5th and it went in to reverse instead. It can't actually ingage in reverse but it did grind like hell. It took me 3 times to firgure out that it was reverse and not 5th that was grinding. It had zero problems sliding into reverse at speeds it shouldn't be doing it at. This was just normal shifting and the tranny and PCM is completely stock.
I was also able to put the tranny in reverse like a hot knife thru butter with the car off in the driveway with the keys in my pocket. Same with the keys in.
Whats going on? I'm getting at that it might be my PCM sending the solonoid voltage when it shouldn't be.
Later I drove it and its fine. It works as it should.
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bringing it back from the dead
i came across this problem over the weekend. it dosn't matter if i am driving at 40 mph, sitting at idle, sitting with the car in the "on" possision, or if the key is off, i can put the car in to reverse with no effort what so ever.
i took the center counsel and shifter out, and have been playing around with the solenoid and noticed that when i put the car in "on" the solenoid will pop out, but i can push it back in with mt finger. it will not come back out unless i turn the car off then on again
has anyone figured out what the problem is
i came across this problem over the weekend. it dosn't matter if i am driving at 40 mph, sitting at idle, sitting with the car in the "on" possision, or if the key is off, i can put the car in to reverse with no effort what so ever.
i took the center counsel and shifter out, and have been playing around with the solenoid and noticed that when i put the car in "on" the solenoid will pop out, but i can push it back in with mt finger. it will not come back out unless i turn the car off then on again
has anyone figured out what the problem is
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ttt, i've had this happen to me a few times and would like to see if anyone has any fresh ideas.
Just like everyone else it was on the highway with minimal effort to go into reverse
Just like everyone else it was on the highway with minimal effort to go into reverse
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well i was fiddleing with the noid last night and i think i fixed it
i took the shifter assembly off so that i could see the pin that comes out of the solenoid
as i was messing with it, i noticed i could twist the pin, so i twisted it until it was tight. i took the car around the block and had no problems, as if it never happend
i took the shifter assembly off so that i could see the pin that comes out of the solenoid
as i was messing with it, i noticed i could twist the pin, so i twisted it until it was tight. i took the car around the block and had no problems, as if it never happend
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I have am having the same reverse-lockout failure and I drive a 2008 Ford GT500. It does not have an LS1 engine, but it does have the Tremec 6060 found in the late model Corvette, Camaro, GTO, G8, and Dodge Viper and Challenger. At first, the shifter worked fine, then increasingly, the lockout started to fail. Eventually, it stopped completely and the solenoid had to be replaced. Again, the lockout worked for awhile and then started to fail intermittently. Then summer arrived and the problem disappeared. Now it's getting colder and the problem has returned. The mechanics can't figure it out. Has anybody?