tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

time willing, i'm going to do this myself. i'll be doing this with 2 guys, one of which has knowledge of the transmissions we'll be working on (but don't know if he's actually ever done a clutch install or not).

anyway, i'll tell you what i have:
-2000 camaro
-resurfaced/lightened stock 99 flywheel
-brand new spec 2 clutch/pp
-pilot bearing
-01 master cylinder
-01 slave cylinder

now, what else will i need, including special tools, and where would i get them?

the big parts of the surgery i'm concerned about are regarding the slave/master install. someone mentioned that i'd need to bleed the existing clutch fluid out of the system before the installation of the new slave and master. i don't really know what that means or how the hell to do it.

someone else mentioned i'd have to install shims in order to have the clutch seated properly, but i don't know on this area either. i'm hoping someone that's installed the same clutch before maybe has an answer for me on that one?

i'd appreciate any additional tips and pointers. i just want to make sure i do this right. would the ideal thing to do is to start on a friday night, and then finish up on saturday, or could we do this within a full day?

Griswold

iTrader: (5)

the spec clutch kit should have come with a new throwout bearing and a new pilot bearing. You will need the pilot bearing removal tool (I believe you can rent them at autozone) and also a slide hammer (autozone as well). The spec kit should also come with a metal shim that goes between the slave and the tranny (at least my spec 3 kit did). I'd say the master cylinder install will be the hardest part simply because it is a pain in the *** to get that stupid ubolt back on. You can actually replace it with regular bolts if you wanted to. The master cylinder should come pre-bled, but I would go ahead and make sure by bench bledding it before you put it in the car. Everything else is pretty straight forward. Make sure you torque all the bolts to spec (i.e. flywheel and pressure plate, and make sure you get the clutch aligned right) Who is helping you do the installation?

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

ouija and another buddy who knows about as much as me (very little). if you want some free pizza and drinks, you are more than welcome to give us a hand. i would actually love someone familiar with this stuff to help. personally, i don't really want more than about 4 people, because i think any more will mostly be useless. i may have ART do this if i cannot find the time, which is why i'm trying to gauge my time-consumption level on this job.

oh, and thanks for the advice

Griswold

iTrader: (5)

I would come help but I am putting a t56 in my car this weekend

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

that's cool. it won't be happeneing for another 2 weeks probably. the clutch is still on order. if you want to help out, it's cool. if not, also cool. but if you do, PM me and i'll try to set a date up

oh, and let me know if you need any help. don't know how much help i will be, but it may be a good experience for me.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

anymore advice?

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

so do i need to replace the clutch fluid that runs through the master cylinder? or can i just replace the actual slave and master without getting new fluid or without flushing the system? if i can't, how do i need to flush the system, and how much fluid will i put back into the system?

Griswold

iTrader: (5)

the master should come from gm pre-bled and full of fluid

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

Northern Tool Part Number 90968 - $30



Northern Tool Part Number 15617 - $45

Both will make your install a whole lot easier (the jack adapter especially if you dont have a lift). As for not so special tools - make sure you have plenty of long extentions and universal adapters. One of the bolts on the drivers side of the bellhousing is also a real bitch to get a socket & universal on (hits the floorboard) so I ground down 13mm swivel socket and works great. Good Luck

Camaro_SS

iTrader: (1)

Here's something I learned the hard way with Spec clutches:

The kit comes with (now) a metal shim, used for when you've had the flywheel resurfaced. You mentioned a 99 flywheel, ground. The shim is "supposed" to be of the same thickness as the amount of material taken off the flywheel; this is to bring the depth of the pressure plate back to stock. If you know how much material was taken off the flywheel, then do yourself a favor and compare that number with the thickness of your shim. My first attempt at installing a Spec II and resurfaced flywheel, with the shim, ended in disaster. After two more re-installs, I had gotten smart and compared the numbers; my shim was .025 thinner than it should have been. I've had my entire drivetrain assembly out of the car six times now. I learned the hard way; don't follow in my footsteps.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

do i really need to upgrade the master cylinder? can i just upgrade the slave cylinder while i'm down there without bleeding it and then install the master at a later date? i don't know if that's feasible. i also don't know how to bleed the slave.

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

You should upgrade now and get it done the first time. I thought my stock stuff would be fine then I ended up having to pull it all apart again when my clutch wasn't fully releasing. You HAVE to use a shim to space out the slave to make up for resurfacing the flywheel.Do the drill mod while it's apart

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

well, the flywheel i bought came from a 98. it was resurfaced, lightened, and shimmed. i don't really know what that means. i thought if it was lightened then perhaps too much of it was taken off, which could be dangerous for driving, right? but then again i don't know why he would have gotten it lightened if that were the case. and i also dont know if having a flywheel "shimmed" is a good thing or not. please help me better understand this!

pimpmaro

A lightened steel flywheel will still be heavier than an aluminum flywheel. As long as it's in balance it should be ok. Shimming is just adjusting the flywheel so the face of it is in the right location relative to the rest of the clutch. Shims are perfectly safe as long as they're used within reason. Don't worry, it won't be difficult. Although as long as you're down there and playing with it... I would recommend bleeding the system. Just run fluid through until you don't have any air bubbles and you have fresh fluid coming out. That way you accomplish a full fluid change and you know the system has no air in it. As long as you're down there changing the clutch, why not. Right?

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

i have no problem bleeding the entire system, i'm just afraid of doing it because i don't know how to do it. heh. does anyone have an install guide link for that? i checked installuniversity, and theirs is good, but i'd like another guide for reference. thanks so far for the compliments! hopefully i'll get started this week.

pimpmaro

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

Step #26 should give you a good idea of how to bleed the clutch.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

yeah, i just keep thinking the stock flywheel lightened would mean that too much (more than .015) was taken off of it in order to lighten it, know what i mean?

and btw, the spec 2 clutch kit only came with one single shim. is that right?

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

someone also said i should have the pressure plate and flywheel balanced as a unit prior to the installation. is that necessary, or can i just bolt it up?

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

your best bet is to get a new flywheel.No telling how much has been taken off the flywheel and you don't know if it is balanced right. I didn't resurface my flywheel and still needed the metal shim. Some people get lucky with the whole clutch and PP getting balanced or not. I didn't and got lucky, but I did have to change my stock master and slave. A new flywheel will save you some fustration.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

alright, well, i've heard of PLENTY of people doing the stock flywheel and having no difficulties, so i'd really like to do that since i have everything set up to go. i'll check on how much of that flywheel was taken off, and perhaps i can find out. he did say about 1.5 lbs was taken off when it was "lightened," but i don't know what that equates into as far as depth. if anyone does know what depth 1.5 lbs is equivalent to, please share!

3 questions:

when spec says a re-surfaced flywheel and the new clutch need to be "balanced," what does that mean? can i not just throw the new clutch on there with the shim and be set?

also, if you get a stock flywheel resurfaced, lightened, and shimmed, don't you think it'd only be a reasonable assumption to say that the machine shop also zero balanced it? i mean, why the hell would they not?

and lastly, do i need to remove any of the stock exhaust in order to get the transmission out?