ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

on my 2001 camaro z28 m6. 72,000 miles

I blew something a part on clutch so bad, that I have a few little holes in my bell housing from it. I think it might be pieces from the pressure plate, that flew off and and richocheted in the bells housing causing these holes. Well in that process of flying debris, something hit the slave cylinder and has caused a hydraulic fluid(brake dot 3) leak. Which now causes inconsistent pressure on the clutch pedal.

I am going to replace the clutch and master/slave cylinder.. here are my questions..

Spec Stage 3 or Centerforce clutch, which is better and which should I buy?

Master and slave cylinder replacement, is it easy? How do you bleed the system?

Also I have replaced clutches before but not the hydraulics, is there any tips that I should know? what do i have to do, to make sure that after everything is installed, my clutch clutch engage and disengages properly.

What I am most worried about is, my clutch staying engaged and burning up my friction plate, can that be an issue or does everything line up nicely on 01 f-bodies.

Any and all info will be greatly appreciated.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

currently installing a centerforce ill let you know how i like it but apparently the dual friction is supposed to be good and from examining the pressure plate there are weights between the fingers that at 4000 rpm they quadruple or double the clamping force

crazy, but i have to get it all back together

Mike K.

My favorite 2 clutches so far, centerforce dual friction, and a spec V

Yes I know a world of difference between the two but the power lvls have changed alot, If I had to do it over again I would have got the spec V from the start. Who woulda thought no chatter on a 1000rwhp clutch lol ???!!

ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

cool thanks guys. I will be buying the spec 3.

any tips on installing the new clutch and hydraulic system... also is there any easy way to bleed the hydraulics, or do i need certain tools???

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

i already posted some of the tips on ls1.com, under a different name. you don't need any special tools for the bleed except for a 1/4 ratchet and 7/16 socket, and a little small nail when bench bleeding the master.

i would recommend you bench bleed the master correctly, and make sure that the reservoir is full and level the entire time you are bench bleeding it. have one person hold the reservoir, another pump the master, and then another push a pin in the line to let out the air. if the reservoir tips on it's side and you pump the master, you will get a shitload of air into the system. works the same once everything is in the car...make sure the reservoir is fastened in the stock location before you start pumping on the pedal again.

i've bled my system twice now, and both times i got air in the master and had to literally let it sit overnight to allow the large air bubbles to escape. it's no fun. do it right or you'll be very upset.

i bought the spec 2 because i don't and won't have much power. the spec 2 is a little easier on your rear end as well as your flywheel, since the lighter the shift, the better for all of the other components of the car. i reused my stock flywheel, so i didn't want to put in a stage 3 and burn that stock flywheel up quicker. i really wanted to put a clutch in that i'd never have to change again. hopefully i made a good choice.

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

I thought centerforce wasn't very good?