**Stock Adjustable Master Cylinder Writeup**
12-06-2006, 08:58 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by dame
any new mcleod twin people try this since this was last updated.....care to share your experience.
thank you in advance
Sincerley
Very frustrated mcleod twin owner
thank you in advance
Sincerley
Very frustrated mcleod twin owner
12-06-2006, 09:04 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by david vericker
What would you like them to try? Yours and mine (McLeod street twin) comes with the adjustable master cylinder and larger braided line which prevents the clutch peddle from sticking.
12-06-2006, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by david vericker
What would you like them to try? Yours and mine (McLeod street twin) comes with the adjustable master cylinder and larger braided line which prevents the clutch peddle from sticking.
I was wondering if the people that had mcleod adj masters (that had problems with theres) did this mod on a stock one and had better luck with their twin disk
12-19-2006, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dame
I was wondering if the people that had mcleod adj masters (that had problems with theres) did this mod on a stock one and had better luck with their twin disk
05-22-2007, 09:17 AM
#29
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Many thanks! This worked great! I needed the adjustability, after my Centerforce DF install
and replacement of the hydraulics. The pedal was much to high.
Thank you! fantastic write-up Tally TransAm and the rest.
and replacement of the hydraulics. The pedal was much to high.
Thank you! fantastic write-up Tally TransAm and the rest.
10-19-2007, 08:33 PM
#30
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I just did a clutch install, and now the clutch will not fully disengage when the pedal is pushed to the floor, and it fully engages like 1/8" off the floor, so basically you don't even start to lift your foot and it is fully engaged already..will doing this mod to my master fix this?
11-08-2007, 12:40 PM
#31
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I just did a clutch install, and now the clutch will not fully disengage when the pedal is pushed to the floor, and it fully engages like 1/8" off the floor, so basically you don't even start to lift your foot and it is fully engaged already..will doing this mod to my master fix this?
11-12-2007, 04:13 PM
#32
5w20, did your textralia have problems getting into gear from a dead stop? If mine idles in neutral while warming up, then I go to start off, its really hard to get in gear. Its the same at stop lights, unless I get back in first gear before the car completely stops. A new stock master and slave helped the problem, but its still not 100%, maybe this adjustable mod will help that!
11-15-2007, 12:26 AM
#33
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5w20, did your textralia have problems getting into gear from a dead stop? If mine idles in neutral while warming up, then I go to start off, its really hard to get in gear. Its the same at stop lights, unless I get back in first gear before the car completely stops. A new stock master and slave helped the problem, but its still not 100%, maybe this adjustable mod will help that!
11-28-2007, 12:27 PM
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Will doing this mod fix my problem of my clutch never fully engaging? My clutch engages at the very top of the pedal movement, and i don't think it is ever really fully engaged because if I nail it when it is already in gear it revs up high and shakes sometimes.
12-04-2007, 04:17 PM
#38
master cylinder rebuild 
Anyone seen this new part for sale on Thunder's website? Beats the heck out of buying new MC.
37-139011 Replacement Stato Seal for Master Clyinder (2 required)
$5.99
that sure would be good to do if you have it apart and a high mi unit too
! wonder where you get it now..... 
12-18-2007, 10:48 AM
#40
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I can't believe I never noticed this. 
I had a LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel combination installed with new clutch hydraulics and a SSI rebuild on my T56. I've been wondering for ages why that ****** is so notchy, and this has GOT to be it.
Am I just pulling the MC right off the hydraulic line and doing all this on a bench? I'm leery about getting air in my system just by doing this.
I had a LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel combination installed with new clutch hydraulics and a SSI rebuild on my T56. I've been wondering for ages why that ****** is so notchy, and this has GOT to be it.
Am I just pulling the MC right off the hydraulic line and doing all this on a bench? I'm leery about getting air in my system just by doing this.