ZeeTwentyFate

iTrader: (19)

emfuser did it fix yours? my trans is brand new AND SUCKS, it was built by SSI and i KNOW its got to be right, but i had a TO of problems after my swap to a t56 from the start lol

5w20

iTrader: (21)

You are going to get in the system, you are opening it up...Just bleed it when finished

LS1C5Vette

iTrader: (11)

Just did mine but my dum *** used a 3/8 X 24 die, oh well it will allow for very minor adjustments now off to ace to get the right coupling nuts. Thanks for the bad *** write up.

Emfuser

I cannot stress how much I hated this.

Emfuser

There ought to be a note regarding putting the MC back together that says something along the lines of this:

To reassemble the master cylinder you're going to need a friend, preferably a linebacker, to hold the assembly together while you spend 3 hours fat-fingering attempts at getting the ring to actually go in-between the cylinder and the plastic retainer piece. We send our regards as you end up sending the pieces flying all over the place in vain enough times to ruin whatever you're wearing, as well as your surroundings.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Is it really necessary to cut the bump stop? I thought it was to stop the piston before the spring got to coil-bind. Also, on an unmodified car isn't the master cylinder stroke limited by the clutch pedal hitting the firewall, not the internal bump stop? It would save people a lot of pain if disassembling the master wasn't necessary.

Edit: I ended up doing this finally and the disassembly/reassembly isn't all that bad. It's a good opportunity for a fluid flush anyway.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

This is a good question. 2nd?

sschoeffler

iTrader: (24)

Anyone? I'd like to know this also

chuckyt1

iTrader: (33)

In an unmodified car it may be true that the pedal stops at the firewall. If however, the master is made adjustable, wouldn't that move the low end of the plunger closer to the bump stop when the pedal is on the floor? I too thought it might not be needed. I did it anyway though and it wasn't too bad.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Hey Chuck. So you cut the stop or did not? I wonder how much travel past the firewall there is before you hit the stop.

I see you got the trans worked out finally. So should see some solid numbers this season. What clutch did you go with?

chuckyt1

iTrader: (33)

Yes, I did cut the stop. I still don't know if it is needed but since it was out...

OZ700

TheDogofWar

iTrader: (2)

I did the external adjustment only, I also managed to do it in place by only loosening the two nuts which allowed for working room.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Can you make adjustments and see if it hits the limiter and how much pedal travel before hitting the limiter?

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

Just did mine and it took about 12 minutes from take apart to back together. I had my son (16) hold it in place while I used a samll screwdriver (kind for electronics, watches and stuff). Just get the bottom of the ring in first and follow it around kinda backwards putting pressure on it. It was real fast. Hope this helps.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I would suggest cutting the limiter. You can easily adjust it down to that point & will need that extra travel.
The clip can be a challenge but do-able.

SweetTooth

iTrader: (2)

Will this work on a LT1??

FootLbs

iTrader: (7)

Do you guys think I can do this and use the Mcleod twin?

Or will it just not push enouph fluid...?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I finally got around to doing this today. It wasn't as hard as I thought it was gonna be with the reassembly. I was considering not opening up the internals but I'm glad I did because I found a bunch of sludge in the master cylinder.

I was going to try to replace the retaining ring with an internal snap ring from the hardware store. 7/8" is too small and 1" is too big, just barely though. The retaining ring wasn't that bad once I got someone to hold everything together while I fed the ring in.

3fourty6

iTrader: (2)

I just encountered a problem on my adjustable master I made. The rod that gets threaded back towards the master itself broke in half. It broke towards the bottom where I ran out of threads. It looks as if there is an empty space inside for a quarter inch or less and with the threads there made it real weak as it is just hollow. Just a heads up for people. I have an extra rod that I can use but I will not be threading it down nearly as far as it is instructed here. I don't want to go clutchless that far away from home again.

chromeplated500

iTrader: (10)

OK... this is incredibly easy and made a dell of a difference.

I used a small pick and started the seal back in without a problem.

I did it all according to the above directions. But i wouldn't have gut off .5" if I did it again I would probably try and just cut it and thread.