Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Ripper shifts really rough

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Old May 11, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #1  
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Default Ripper shifts really rough

Just had the B&M ripper installed. Car has a Spec 3 (year old) and the stock tranny.

At first it shifted like a dream. It was super precise, fast and smooth. I took it to the track and was really hooking hard. Made my best runs ever. After a few runs I started missing shifts and grinding gears. That was last weekend and it is still shifting really rough. I'm wondering if there could be something wrong on the install or if it is a tranny/clutch problem.

The stock shifter did this a bit, but not so bad. Really strange considering how great it was before racing.
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Old May 11, 2005 | 10:13 PM
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could be ur clutch
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Old May 12, 2005 | 07:13 AM
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I like to see other 30ths getting driven( I have a 6 speed vert). I would suggest you pull the shifter and look at the "socket" that is in the trans. If it is loose or damaged it could be you problem. I have seen B&Ms damage this socket. Otherwise, I would suspect the clutch set-up/ release system.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 08:54 AM
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The shifter is rough regardless if the car is even running, so I can't see how it is the clutch.

Ya - the car gets run pretty hard at time. Both road racing and drag racing. But it also gets into shows and such as well. It is in very good shape.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 11:02 AM
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Check that socket and if its ok, install the std shifter to see if it is the B&M causing the concern.
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Old May 14, 2005 | 10:30 PM
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Well I pulled it all part today and can't say I really found anything. The socket looks fine and the shifter looks fine. For some reason they never installed the stops though. Is that normal? I understand the T56 already has built in stops, so perhaps they aren't necessary.

I tried the factory hurst and it was no better either.

So I put the B&M back in and drove around for a bit. It seems to be a bit better that it was. The thing that confuses me is that it is catching on each gear intermittently, so it can't just be a single shift fork.

Anyways, here is a pic of the socket.
Attached Thumbnails Ripper shifts really rough-socket.jpg  
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Old May 19, 2005 | 12:30 PM
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Default new question

I noticed that when re-installing the ripper, there are washers placed on top of each of the 4 corner holes. These washers are not "round" but rather are elongated. And the hole is not right in the center of the washer. This means that you can set the position of the shifter slightly as it aligns with the socket.

I didn't notice where they were before, but after I re-installed the shifter, it seems a bit better. Is it possible these washers were, or still are, in the wrong orientation? Which way should they be?
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Old May 19, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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yes it could be a factor. Is there any indication that the shifter had moved? This might explain the good-to bad issue.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 03:22 PM
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No - in fact the sealant used was so firm that I needed a crowbar to remove the shifter. Using the washers effectively holds it in place as well, so I doubt it moved. But it could have been installed with the washers oriented wrong.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 10:02 AM
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I have the exact same setup. My clutch has 2 years on it and and 60k+ miles. It started shifting rough just as you expalined. I changed my tranny fluid to the redline atf and bled my clutch 3 times. Now, it shifts like a dream. I highly recommend bleeding the clutch. That seemed to be 90% of my problem.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Prin
I have the exact same setup. My clutch has 2 years on it and and 60k+ miles. It started shifting rough just as you expalined. I changed my tranny fluid to the redline atf and bled my clutch 3 times. Now, it shifts like a dream. I highly recommend bleeding the clutch. That seemed to be 90% of my problem.
I put the new fluid in today, but haven't driven it yet. I wanted to bleed the clutch but wasn't sure how. I read a lot of posts on the subject, but couldnt' find the valve. Could you direct me to the best instructions?

BTW - I just used GM Dexron III as I was wary of going synthetic in my 99.
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 12:47 AM
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Well the new fluid didn't make any difference. Still notches doing into gear. I'm going to try bleeding the clutch, but I don't expect much from that.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 01:02 AM
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Default Ripper caused me to hit 2nd instead of 4th

Well I was out cruising the other night and got into it a bit with a Mustang. Well at the top of 3rd gear I grabbed the shifter and yanked it down. Well must to my chagrin the car went to 2nd instead of 4th. Now believe you me - nothing good happens when you hit 2nd gear at 100 MPH!!!!!

The car stalled and the rears screeched briefly. Once I pulled over and started again, the car seemed okay. It was backfiring a bit, but otherwise appeared to be okay. I have to check the pushrods though....

So this ripper has been nothing but a problem. Something like this would never happen with my old stock Hurst. Sometimes the shifter is great, but now it seems to have wrecked my tranny, nearly unloaded my engine, and causes me to miss countless shifts on the drag strip. I just don't know what to do about this anymore.
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 01:14 AM
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you could try re-orienting the shifter base to get it where it fits you right. i'd call B & M and see what the deal is with those washers. maybe you can clock the shifter base to your liking. also, i'd use the stops that came with the shifter. the stops in the tranny can't handle too much abuse, and its easier to just tear up a shifter than it is a tranny, IMO
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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Well I got around to pulling it out again and double checking those washers. I called B&M and they said the washer should have the tab towards the front and the hole towards the back. Mine was backwards. I switched it around and my first impression is great. The car shifts a lot nicer now. We'll see if it lasts.
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