i ran all last year and so far this year on a s4 iron and it started slipping on me couple weeks ago off the line. remind that was significantly over the tq capacity for this clutch the entire time.

going to put this one in the car this weekend. remind that i am also already over the rated tq capacity for this one!

looks pretty beast to me

http://www.fastrides.com/photos/mm/i.../original.aspx

http://www.fastrides.com/photos/mm/i.../original.aspx

http://www.fastrides.com/photos/mm/i.../original.aspx

http://www.fastrides.com/photos/mm/i.../original.aspx

reusing last years spec billet flywheel (resurfaced)
also reusing the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, reusing my master and slave cyl. i will be installing the metal slave shim they sent with it.
will tq the flywheel bolts to 75# w/ red loctite, and 65 on the pressure plate with the red loctite

i run gtx lma brake fluid and i have done the drill mod, i do not have the master line insulated from heat in any way.

comments? i know there are some haters here with and some without reason.

i hope to get everyone on the same page and see if we can gain some more info on the spec controversy.

I will be picking up a sfi bellhousing in about a month (i aint crazy!)

 

I'm anxious to get mine back from the chassis shop.I also have spec 5 and only have a few dyno pulls on it. All seems fine but after pulling the car hard on the dyno I have to pump the clutch once to get a good pedal back, haven't raced or really drove the car hard yet so, I don't know what to cahnge. I have all the good stuff as far as clutch. Any info you might have on it? Also when I did putt the car home I tried to jump on it from 2nd to 3rd and smelled clutch so just went home .I hope its not this brand new clutch giving up already. I have also bled the **** out of the pedal feels great until you jump on the car then you only have 1/2 engagement ? Who knows could there still be air in there?

Thanks Tim

 

installed yesterday, first i unbolted and inspected the slave and popped the end off, rear seal cracked...doh! also at this time check for extreme wear on the sides of the metal cylinder out of the slave.. look for bare metal long flattened marks all the way around. replace or clean and wipe off. do not assemble the new throwout assembly on top of brake fluid.. clean it off. brake fluid does not and is not supposed to ever touch this part. putting one together with fluid everywhere could screw up the seals. and break up the grease.

replaced the throwout assembly with a regular oem part (288 slave) bled the slave by myself on a table by taking out the bleeder screw and filling the hydraulic fitting with fluid, then depressing the black ring inside. continue to fill until no bubbles (i prefer to continue to fill until fluid runs clean) out of the bleeder fitting hole

installed the slave w/ the supplied steel spacer from spec make sure the mounting surface is clean and flat.

i then bled the master in the car by myself by flipping the hydraulic line up into the engine bay beside the reservoir.

first i soaked up all the dirty fluid out of the reservoir with paper towells and wiped the grime out. then i filled it with fresh gtx lma fluid then i held the line up but a little lower than the fluid level in the reservor and depressed the center button. watch the reservoir fluid level, but press until no bubbles come out or until the fluid runs clean.

i used a razor blade to make sure there was no dried loctite on the end of the crank and on the backside of the flywheel.

i used glass plus* on the flywheel surface and the pressure plate surface to get any contaminants off.
*if reusing hardware be sure to clean the dried loctite out of the teeth with a wire wheel or brush. this can skew yout tq reading.... also clear out any build up of paint etc. from inside the lockwasher ends.

lastly possibly something people overlook is the input shaft teeth. i went over mine with wd 40 and a toothbrush to get all the crappy goo out. inspect the teeth for twisting or damage. once the crevaces were completely clean i put the lightest little touch of grease on them. this will keep the disk from binding.

 

I just installed my spec stage 5 yesturday as well. I wrapped the master line with some header wrap in addition to using the slave shim. Everything is fine with the clutch, except I have this obnoxious squeal. At first it was happening while shifting in everygear, and down shifting, but now it only does it at when starting from a complete stop in 1st and then a little bit in 2nd. Are you experiencing anything similar??

 

im waiting on cyl heads.

ive heard more than a few specs squeal a little on takeoff, not even s5's.. i'll put up with it if it holds

 

Waiting on the All Pro's huh???
Id like to know how the Spec V does cause thats what im using also...... we will see...........
Kyle

 

remember the stage 5 is a sintered iron un-sprung hub and is meant to be off or on and does not "like" being engaged in the manner the a clutch is engaged during street driving. it will squeal when starting from a slow roll, at least that is my experience. the stage5 clutch has worked well for us so far. 6000rpm clutch dumps that ultimately broke a lot of ****(drive shaft, torque arm etc.) but the clutch was fine.

 

12,000 miles on my STAGE 5 and it's still laughing at my HP levels... With my old tires 315/35/17 Dunlops I could get on it and pull the clutch out agressivly and the tires would light up at 70MPH.. That's a strong clutch...
Clutch is out right now from the motor being dropped.. The clutch still looks great!

Take care.

Clint

 

Whats the friction surface like on the other side of the plate ? it looks very thin, or is it just the way the pic is taken ??

I'm fitting my Spec 4F tomorrow. Dont have much power yet, but want to test it before I do, in case it doesnt work and I do have to source an alternative. My 01 stock clutch slipped the 2nd first time I tried a 1/4 pass. Could easily have done an 11s if it had held up, but 1 and only run without slip was 12.2 @ 122 with 2.18s 60ft
Thats just on an old airfield/runway, with some Khumo Ecsta road/race tyres. Not very grippy at all. There aint no proper dragstrips here :-(

Just sooooo many people out there who hate spec. I hope I dont end up being one of them. I dont have the time or money for it not to work.

 

It's not thin.. It's just the pic.

 

How is street drivability on the stage 5? I just ordered one.

 

streetability is great!! The only thing I would HIGHLY recomend against is stop and go traffic jams on the highway!! When you only get going to like 10 mph then slow down, then have to go again it's a total pain in the ****.

 

2k2camaross I see you have a Synergy FMIC. How much was it?

 

have to eat my words...the noise is more annoying than the way it acts off of a stoplight

since installing the clutch ive snapped two output shafts clean. the rest of your car will have to grow serious ***** to handle a spec 5. if you are under 800rwhp i reccomend a s4.

i am resorting to doing slip launches as opposed to dumps to recover financially

 

Damn... I guess dumping the clutch on a Stage 5 will cause some components to say "Ouch"... Slipping into it might be the best way to launch a stage 5

good info to know..

I've never had slicks, and launched hard at the track with my clutch.. Mine does not make noise anymore.

I still like my stage 5.

Clint

 

The squeal goes more and more away overtime.

Mightymouse you broke two output shafts with this bad boy? Was that at the 900+ hp lvls in your sig? Thats insane man.

 

yes

i was 'going big' ended up just going home ... twice

 

Damn dave what a way to say it....... any word on the new parts yet?? Ordered or recieved them yet??
Kyle

 

i havent followed up yet this week, should head back to me friday/monday probably

 

dam mighty, i guess ill just stay with my s4 or go to a ram when this one dies, ive already bent one axle, wore out the splines on another and striped the teeth off 1 set of gears with this one. you make me really hesitant to try the s5 now.