Whats my problem??
#1
Whats my problem??
At the track this weekend I was practicing launching with the drag radials I recently acquired. Well on all my runs I had been bogging too much, so on the last run I decided to go all out and launch at 4000, well the tires finally break loose. To keep from losing my straight direction I short shift to second. Only, when I push the clutch down, it won't go into second and the clutch won't come off the floor. I coast for a while then put it in 4th and cursie to end of the track.
My friend that was watching said that on my 1-2 shift grayish smoke came off my car. He thinks I have a leak in my clutch line somewhere, so when I engage the clutch fluid sprays onto the exhaust causing the smoke. I haven't been able to detect a leak and it doesn't seem that I am loosing any fluid
What would cause my clutch to stick to the floor and smoke? I have not expirenced this anytime before or after the track. Is my clutch bad? Thanks in advanced.
Luke
My friend that was watching said that on my 1-2 shift grayish smoke came off my car. He thinks I have a leak in my clutch line somewhere, so when I engage the clutch fluid sprays onto the exhaust causing the smoke. I haven't been able to detect a leak and it doesn't seem that I am loosing any fluid
What would cause my clutch to stick to the floor and smoke? I have not expirenced this anytime before or after the track. Is my clutch bad? Thanks in advanced.
Luke
#2
Luke.. see some of the answers in the quote...
Luke... Seems like your clutch is working okay with your tires spinning with DR in the rear... Your Hydraulics’ went out when you tried to shift quick into 2nd.. Have you done the Drill mod?? If not, do so... Steps to solve your problem..
1 Do the drill mod...
2 use Wilwood High Temp Brake Fluid, instead of the GM Clutch fluid. The Wilwood fluid withstands hotter temps better.
3 Wrap your steel braded master cylinder with header wrap, of some kind.
4 Use large Zip ties around the rubber hose from the clutch res to the master cylinder itself.
5 upon re-install install the master cylinder under the heat shield located to the driver side of the trans. 2 7 mm screws hold up the plate..
6 bleed the system really well again using the wilwood brake fluid 570 deg.
All these steps should solve your problem...
If the clutch still smokes then it's time for a new one..
Good luck..
Clint
Originally Posted by 98BirdLS1
He thinks I have a leak in my clutch line somewhere, so when I engage the clutch fluid sprays onto the exhaust causing the smoke. This is not possible......... Smoke probably from the clutch itself..
What would cause my clutch to stick to the floor and smoke? The Master cylinder braded line is hot causing a failure in the hydraulic system....
I have not experienced this anytime before or after the track. Is my clutch bad? Maybe... I would start with the hydraulic system 1st...
What would cause my clutch to stick to the floor and smoke? The Master cylinder braded line is hot causing a failure in the hydraulic system....
I have not experienced this anytime before or after the track. Is my clutch bad? Maybe... I would start with the hydraulic system 1st...
Luke... Seems like your clutch is working okay with your tires spinning with DR in the rear... Your Hydraulics’ went out when you tried to shift quick into 2nd.. Have you done the Drill mod?? If not, do so... Steps to solve your problem..
1 Do the drill mod...
2 use Wilwood High Temp Brake Fluid, instead of the GM Clutch fluid. The Wilwood fluid withstands hotter temps better.
3 Wrap your steel braded master cylinder with header wrap, of some kind.
4 Use large Zip ties around the rubber hose from the clutch res to the master cylinder itself.
5 upon re-install install the master cylinder under the heat shield located to the driver side of the trans. 2 7 mm screws hold up the plate..
6 bleed the system really well again using the wilwood brake fluid 570 deg.
All these steps should solve your problem...
If the clutch still smokes then it's time for a new one..
Good luck..
Clint
Last edited by HUGGER ORANGE SS; 06-02-2005 at 10:40 PM.
#3
"4 Use large Zip ties around the rubber hose from the clutch res to the master cylinder itself. " What do I do with the zip ties?
" upon re-install install the master cylinder under the heat shield located to the driver side of the trans. 2 7 mm screws hold up the plate.. " So I should take the master cylinder and wrap it in header wrap then re-install it behind the heat shield, or is it already there?
" bleed the system really well again using the wilwood brake fluid 570 deg." how do you bleed our systems??
Thanks...........Luke
" upon re-install install the master cylinder under the heat shield located to the driver side of the trans. 2 7 mm screws hold up the plate.. " So I should take the master cylinder and wrap it in header wrap then re-install it behind the heat shield, or is it already there?
" bleed the system really well again using the wilwood brake fluid 570 deg." how do you bleed our systems??
Thanks...........Luke
#4
Luke...
Buy some Zip ties, and around the rubber line that runs from the Clutch Rez to the Master cylinder, tie the zip ties around the part that the rubber hose fits over the male fitting on both the Master cylinder and the Rez.
Take the Mastercylinder steel braded line and wrap it with header wrap, then when you re-install take off the heat shield and place the now wrapped line under the shield then re-install the shield.
Bleeding our systems are easy, it really does take 2 people.. Bleed it just like our brake systems.. Push the Clutch down, and hold it there. Open the release valve on the slave cylinder, it's found just above the steel braded attachment on the bell housing.. I believe it's a 12mm, use the socket to open the bleeder screw, turn it counter clockwise, and make sure you open then close before your friend lifts up the clutch. He will need to grab it with his foot or hand to pull it up.. then reprat process until the clutch fluid is nice and clean. MAke sure to keep the Clutch Rez filled with the Wilwood Brake fluid..
Let me know if you need anything else..
Clint
Buy some Zip ties, and around the rubber line that runs from the Clutch Rez to the Master cylinder, tie the zip ties around the part that the rubber hose fits over the male fitting on both the Master cylinder and the Rez.
Take the Mastercylinder steel braded line and wrap it with header wrap, then when you re-install take off the heat shield and place the now wrapped line under the shield then re-install the shield.
Bleeding our systems are easy, it really does take 2 people.. Bleed it just like our brake systems.. Push the Clutch down, and hold it there. Open the release valve on the slave cylinder, it's found just above the steel braded attachment on the bell housing.. I believe it's a 12mm, use the socket to open the bleeder screw, turn it counter clockwise, and make sure you open then close before your friend lifts up the clutch. He will need to grab it with his foot or hand to pull it up.. then reprat process until the clutch fluid is nice and clean. MAke sure to keep the Clutch Rez filled with the Wilwood Brake fluid..
Let me know if you need anything else..
Clint
#6
Header Wrap and the Wilwood can be found at any local Speed Shop... Or Summit.. Order it now so you can have it by SAT...
Here's the links to Summit...
Below Wilwood 570 Deg F Brake Fluid..
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch
Below Heat Shield Tape... Use this Stuff....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku
Clint
Here's the links to Summit...
Below Wilwood 570 Deg F Brake Fluid..
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch
Below Heat Shield Tape... Use this Stuff....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku
Clint
Trending Topics
#9
Originally Posted by 98BirdLS1
Thanks man! I hope this works. I'd rather buy headers than a clutch. YOu've been a HUGE help.
Luke
EDIT: About how much fluid should I need to flush and fill everything??
Luke
EDIT: About how much fluid should I need to flush and fill everything??
Clint