I was doing the drill mod yesterday,I followed the steps from installuniversity.com. I did everything but I failed @ last, I think I couldn't take the air off from it. Or broke the master cylinder....

Everything is connected correctly, I checked everything 2-3 times.. I push the clutch and it stays inside it doesn't pull itself back Im hoping this problem occurs because of the air if not Im totally .... up

Please tell me if you experienced the same!

 

Does the pedal get stuck down as you're bleeding it or is it sticking after you've finished bleeding and attempting to test drive it?
If it's sticking down while you're attempting to bleed through the bleeder valve on the slave...then that's normal. Just pull up the pedal and continue on.
But, if it's getting stuck after you're through bleeding and attempting to drive it, you have another problem. Did you get the o-ring on the the braided steel pressure line end that plugs into the MC?

 

I got the o-ring correctly...
its doing that when Im bleeding the system but, I did more than 100 pumps it really didn't change

 

ok so i bleed the system before i hooked it up to the tranny and then i bleed it alot also after i hooked it up to the tranny and it still feels really soft. not hard at all. no air is coming out when i bleed it just fluid. so i dont understand.

 

If you're running a stock or ZO6 clutch and all you did was the drill mod, I'd say you're fine. I have heard that doing the drill mod on a stock clutch will lighten the pedal pressure some. It's been so long since I've had a stock clutch I can't remember. I say go drive it and see how it does.

 

Can't drive it man, I can't put it into gear

 

damn, that sounds familiar

 

heres something a friend sent me:
The biggest problems are disconnecting the "quick" disconnect (you will see why I put quick in quotes later on when you try to quickly disonnect this ************) and locating/using the bleed screw.

Follow the instructions on www.installuniversity.com (skipping over the replacement of the master cyl part) When you get to the disconnect...you need two small flathead screwdrivers. Push that white ring into the transmission and then the disconnect basically falls out. It is a pita because you're limited for space, and you've got to push that thing in pretty far.

After you get that whole line out, you can drill it, and then pre-bleed (bench bleed) it. Reconnect the line to the master cyl (out of the car). Hold the master cyl in the air, full of fluid. Have a friend manually work the slave cylinder. Open the other end by pressing in the valve, push the slave cylinder rod in, release the valve, let the slave cylinder rod back out. Do this a few times and keep the resevoir topped off. Now it is pre-bled, which makes your later on bleeding a bit easier.

Then you put all the **** back together...and its time for the not so quick disconnect again. This is a good time to locate the bleeder screw...you can't see it. Instead you need to feel directly above that disconnect...you'll feel a cavity, and in it is the screw. It is a 7/16" and you will need a thin-walled socket and quarter inch drive ratchet to get to it. Loosen it up a few turns (NOT all the way by accident like I did). Then reconnect the line...what worked best getting that thing back in was placing a 13mm wrench up against the fitting, and using a prybar to apply pressure to it....it's pretty difficult to do it just with your hands.

Once that's locked in and you have all your other things secure, top off the master cyl again and get a friend to help you while you get under the car. Open the bleeder screw, have them depress the clutch, close the bleeder screw, then release the clutch. Doing these steps out of order draws air into the system. You will need to repeat that anywhere from 5-30 times depending on how much air got in...some people even say they didn't need to bleed it, but I'm not lucky like that, lol.

Now...there's an easier way to do this, if you dont mind cutting up your car. MUCH easier imo. If you go under the car and punch a small hole/dimple directly across from the bleeder screw...go into your interior and pull up the carpet, and drill a 1"+ hole around the dimple. From there you can access the screw MUCH easier with a socket and a couple extensions. This also allows you to bleed the clutch unassisted, since you can open/close the screw from the car as well as operate the pedal...

well bud I think that's it...if you attempt this, just give yourself a lot of time to do it. I thought it would take an hour...HAHAH boy was I wrong, lol.

 

Man I guess I found the problem, I am pretty good at those so those are not a problem for me I think I fucked my master cylinder up. You know that think goes in and out like piston, mine is not straight!!! Has angle



does it suppose to do that?

 

i think it should have some play in it...i know mine did, but i didnt install that one either.

 

What i've been told by GM guys is that, "it should be straight" So Im gonna go get a new one! I would like to buy a mcleod adjustable but its hella expensive!

 

why not go for the ram adjustable??

 

maybe... How much are they?

 

Can you use a mityvac?

 

Call TSP...

 

So are you supposed to open bleeder valve THEN push pedal to floor and close bleeder valve?

I was pumping pedal 15 times, pushing to floor, THEN opening bleeder. Closing bleeder then pumping pedal. So was I doing it wrong?

 

Yes, that's wrong. Just like a compression brake bleed. Open bleeder, clutch in, hold it, close bleeder, clutch out.

 

won't that squirt LOTS of fluid out? How do I know when it's bled enough?

 

If possible, I always push the fluid from the slave up to the master cyl to bleed hyd clutches. We have several Phoenix injectors but a oil squirt can will do also. Works great since the air wants to go up anway.

 

this **** is confusing!! someone needs to post a how to video