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Diagnose this problem... McLeod adj. master...

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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 11:19 AM
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Unhappy Diagnose this problem... McLeod adj. master...

OK, here's what it's doing with my RAM VDS 980 clutch (~1500 miles post-install). Drill mod was done.

Cold start: pedal feel normal, engagement point at middle of travel

One minute later: pedal very soft until just above floorboard, where engagement occurs. A little grabby here, seems like the engagement point is sharper

15 minutes later: after the car's been on for 12-15 minutes (either driving or parked) the normal clutch feel and engagement return... and remain normal for as long as I've driven it, with and without short periods with the engine off.

Can anyone tell me what's happening here? Solutions?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Rich
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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 08:05 PM
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It sounds like there might be air in the system. I decided to bleed my clutch and am having similar issues. After bleeding at the slave several times, I did the mityvac method. The pedal seems to get better with each bleed. I doubt it's the slave in my case since this happened after I decided to do the bleeding. I suggest just keep bleeding with the mityvac. I'm probably going to keep bleeding daily until I get it right.
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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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I had the same problem the pedal was inconsistant w/my McLeod master. Specially when it was cold out. The pedal would have play in it & have to pump up +release point was unpredictable.
I rebuilt it w/ an overhaul kit, & honed it out real well with a wheel cylinder hone & lots of brake fluid. Now it has been perfect. I flush it out occationally w/ a mighty vac also when the fluid starts to darken. It keeps me from having trouble. But I powershift it constantly @ the track so that does take its toll. But Brake fluid & time is cheaper than speed gears & synchronizer assemblies IMO.
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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As an update, this appears to be a problem regardless of the temperature. And I think it's getting worse; occassionally I have to pull the pedal back up with my foot.

Help!
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 12:16 PM
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having a similar issue but now my pedal is completely gone, in my case it seems to be a bad slave that i just bought.
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 03:51 PM
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Can anyone come up with an explanation of what is happening mechanically in this case? Why would running the car for 15 minutes make a difference?
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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The fluid does heat up & the master will seal better. The single puck seal inside the master is not sealing well enough while the problem occurs. The fluid is by-passing the seal somewhat. Pull the boot back from inside the car. Is it is a little mushy & it is damp inside there? This is not uncommon to happen to McLeod's do a search, alot of the complaints are the same as yours.
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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Would changing the fluid to a higher viscosity type help here? Is there such a thing? I don't know the difference between DOT3 and DOT4, sorry...
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RW99
Would changing the fluid to a higher viscosity type help here? Is there such a thing? I don't know the difference between DOT3 and DOT4, sorry...
No, no different viscosities for brake fluid.
GM recommends DOT 3 w/ their slaves, so I stay with that.
I use valvoline syn-tech DOT 3 is has a high heat rating.
There is only one fix rebuild it.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 01:45 PM
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OK, just for completeness...

I've recently started just tap-tap-tapping on the clutch pedal when the car is cold started. Apparently this is a work-around solution, because the clutch retains most of its feel and normal travel. Hard shifts seem OK, too... so I think doing a little left-foot dance may save further master rebuilding. We'll see...
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 05:57 PM
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Same thing happened to my mcleod within a week of installation.
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