bleeding........
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On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 179
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From: Bloomington, MN
bleeding........ Can anyone please explain how to properly bleed the hyd. clutch on a 01 f body using a mitevac, i have triied the std. method and my pedal still stays on the floor during hard acceleration,it works fine during normal driving. thanks
Last edited by triumphman; Sep 20, 2005 at 08:41 AM.
www.installuniversity.com - go to install docs then master install /drill mod. Thats what i used to modify my stock master.
the drill mod increases the flow of hyd fluid to the slave. from the factory they had too small of an opening in the line causing the loss of fluid at high rpm shifting, causing you to misshift and loose pedal for a bit until you pump it up.
the drill mod increases the flow of hyd fluid to the slave. from the factory they had too small of an opening in the line causing the loss of fluid at high rpm shifting, causing you to misshift and loose pedal for a bit until you pump it up.
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when my car was a 6spd i did reverse bleeding... it worked really well. took some time but was way easier and cleaner...........
get a vacuum pump w/ resivoir and stick the end of the tube down the line from the fluid resivoir and pump out all the air. you'll need quite a bit of extra/clean fluid for this. but it is way better than doing it at the slave in my opinion. if you're interested and want more details pm me about it.
get a vacuum pump w/ resivoir and stick the end of the tube down the line from the fluid resivoir and pump out all the air. you'll need quite a bit of extra/clean fluid for this. but it is way better than doing it at the slave in my opinion. if you're interested and want more details pm me about it.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 84
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From: Lawrenceville,GA
A definite endorsement of Reverse Bleeding!!!! I know that people sometimes get them bled by pumping the peddle but it just doesn't always work. When you reverse bleed you either do what was mentioned or pressure bleed from the slave bleeder. A Phoenix Injector for about $100.00 will do the trick. Also remove the bolts on the Master, pull it out from the firewall still connected and lay it level on the frame. This lets the trapped air at the top go out the resevoir tube. It is not hard to do this with the master. Obviously try reverse bleeding first before you remove the master. It only takes about a quart of DOT 3 pumped through to bleed. That takes about 10 minutes in reverse. The slave may just be bad as mentioned. I even put a new Ram Powergrip in with a new slave and had similar problems at first. The slave was the problem and it eventually failed even at low RPMs. Replacement of the slave is the only cure for that. That's why I went with all McLeod Hydraulics and 9 months later NO PROBLEM!!!
Last edited by AtlantaRTA; Sep 25, 2005 at 08:54 AM.
So... just put the tip of the mighty vac in the resovoir and pump?
does it pull in any air form anywhere else, or as long as I pull bubbles, i am pulling air I am bleeding it out?
does it pull in any air form anywhere else, or as long as I pull bubbles, i am pulling air I am bleeding it out?
I use the small tip that came with the mityvac kit and bleed at the reservoir. Pump up to 25in/hg and I then crack the pedal a little and pump more if needed. I get air out of the system, but lately I think the master has worn out again because I can get air every time I pump the pedal...... DOH!
push tip of hose into the hole in the reservoir, make sure you have some brake fluid in the mityvac canister like 1/3 full, pump up to 10in/hg. pump clutch pedal and watch bubbles(air) come up the mityvac tube. when no more air bubbles come out, slowly release the pressure on the mityvac trying to not let the fluid all go out of the tube.
repeat process at 15 in/hg. then repeat again at 20, and again at 25. if your still getting more and more air bubbles out, just keep repeating steps at 25 until there are no more. there will always be tiny tiny bubbles in the fluid after doing this, its perfectly normal, were trying to get rid of the big bubbles here.
hope that helps.
repeat process at 15 in/hg. then repeat again at 20, and again at 25. if your still getting more and more air bubbles out, just keep repeating steps at 25 until there are no more. there will always be tiny tiny bubbles in the fluid after doing this, its perfectly normal, were trying to get rid of the big bubbles here.
hope that helps.
no problem man 
this process worked very well for me, in fact, i did not bench bleed my master after the drill mod (required) and just used this method and its been working perfectly for the past 5k+ miles.
this process worked very well for me, in fact, i did not bench bleed my master after the drill mod (required) and just used this method and its been working perfectly for the past 5k+ miles. 
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13
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i got my mightyvac at autozone for like 30 bux...thanks again for all the info guys..this method works so well i bleed the clutch on my hour lunch break and never even got dirty...but i found out after driving car to work that the hydralics slave is bad as the pedal went to the floor when i pulled up to work