Skip shift elim in, codes still throwing
09-27-2005, 02:43 PM
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Skip shift elim in, codes still throwing After installing some LT headers, I had some codes removed - but 2 still remained:
P0102 - maf voltage problem? I am replacing the maf, hopefully this fixes the problem. Can this be caused by bad O2's?
Another code that shows the skip shift soleniod as bad/failing. So I read up on install univerisity, decided to do the cheapo radio shack 2.2Kohm resistor install. I pulled the connector, shorted the in/out with the resistor, taped everything up real good and I still have the code? So now what do I do? How can that pos be throwing a code if it has no power or sensor wires running to it? I need to get rid of this asap so I can inspect/register my camaro... Any help here would be greatly appreciated
Thanks - stevet
P0102 - maf voltage problem? I am replacing the maf, hopefully this fixes the problem. Can this be caused by bad O2's?
Another code that shows the skip shift soleniod as bad/failing. So I read up on install univerisity, decided to do the cheapo radio shack 2.2Kohm resistor install. I pulled the connector, shorted the in/out with the resistor, taped everything up real good and I still have the code? So now what do I do? How can that pos be throwing a code if it has no power or sensor wires running to it? I need to get rid of this asap so I can inspect/register my camaro... Any help here would be greatly appreciated
Thanks - stevet
09-27-2005, 10:55 PM
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That trick worked like a charm for me. Make sure before you install the resistor that you scrape the ends a little to make sure you are getting good contact. Make sure you reset the computer after you have installed the resistor. Not to insult your intelligence or anything but you did install it in the wiring harness plug side and you do have the right plug? Please don't take offense to these two questions!!
09-27-2005, 11:05 PM
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What happens if you dont reset the computer(or how do you do it, is it by disconnecting the battery), I did the radio shack 2.2k ohm mod and it worked fine for me the light still comes on.
09-27-2005, 11:13 PM
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The skip shift light will still light but the second gear lockout solenoid should be disabled. The skip shift light is very hard to eliminate but not impossible. The light you are referring to is the Skip shift light and not the SES light right?
09-28-2005, 06:45 PM
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No offense taken - I'm here asking for help and it is appreciated. Ok, here are my answers:
*Yes I reset the computer after install by disconnecting the neg battery terminal for 10min+
*Yes I placed the 2.2Kohm resistor across the terminals of the electrical connector coming from the wire loom/pigtail going to the front most sensor (towards the front of the car) on the drivers side of the tranny case - per instructions from install university I also plugged the solenoid side connector with elec tape and taped the res very tightly to the pigtail connector.
* No I did not scrape the terminals - do you mean of the sensor? Or the resistor ends? That connector is a female, so how would you scrape it? I did clean it out with some spraycan electrical cleaner prior to pushing the resistor leads into the holes - think that is sufficient? I could solder them in if needed.
* I have never seen the skip shift light come on, on this car. The SES light is constantly on - I do have a P0102 maf code throwing as already mentioned.
Once that one is gone maybe I'll be able to pass inspection with the skip shift failure - I have a buddy that inspects my cars - maybe I'll get lucky and can just ignore it and fix later......
Any other suggestions? I did talk to a local tuning shop that told me they have a way to disable the skip shift light on the dash through the computer......
Thanks for the help guys - keep 'em coming - stevet
*Yes I reset the computer after install by disconnecting the neg battery terminal for 10min+
*Yes I placed the 2.2Kohm resistor across the terminals of the electrical connector coming from the wire loom/pigtail going to the front most sensor (towards the front of the car) on the drivers side of the tranny case - per instructions from install university I also plugged the solenoid side connector with elec tape and taped the res very tightly to the pigtail connector.
* No I did not scrape the terminals - do you mean of the sensor? Or the resistor ends? That connector is a female, so how would you scrape it? I did clean it out with some spraycan electrical cleaner prior to pushing the resistor leads into the holes - think that is sufficient? I could solder them in if needed.
* I have never seen the skip shift light come on, on this car. The SES light is constantly on - I do have a P0102 maf code throwing as already mentioned.
Once that one is gone maybe I'll be able to pass inspection with the skip shift failure - I have a buddy that inspects my cars - maybe I'll get lucky and can just ignore it and fix later......
Any other suggestions? I did talk to a local tuning shop that told me they have a way to disable the skip shift light on the dash through the computer......
Thanks for the help guys - keep 'em coming - stevet
09-28-2005, 07:14 PM
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The leads on the resistor is what I was referring to as to what needed to be scraped a little.
Tomorrow when it is light out I will take a peek under our M6 car and make sure you have the right harness cause the reverse lockout and the CAGS harness are identical and are very easy to confuse. I know cause i did the wrong one. Any way back to the skip shift light, has it ever worked to your knowledge? If has not been tampered with it should light no matter if the CAGS is functional or not. You may have another problem that we are not seeing. I will get a picture of the harness and location and post it for you just to make sure we are eliminating the obvious problems. One last thing, certain codes set by the PCM require using a code scanner to remove them, I believe this is one of them. If you have an Autozone near you, most of them will scan your codes and them clear them for you. I have a friend that clears mine and a very good dealer who will do it for no charge, but not everyone is that lucky.
Tomorrow when it is light out I will take a peek under our M6 car and make sure you have the right harness cause the reverse lockout and the CAGS harness are identical and are very easy to confuse. I know cause i did the wrong one. Any way back to the skip shift light, has it ever worked to your knowledge? If has not been tampered with it should light no matter if the CAGS is functional or not. You may have another problem that we are not seeing. I will get a picture of the harness and location and post it for you just to make sure we are eliminating the obvious problems. One last thing, certain codes set by the PCM require using a code scanner to remove them, I believe this is one of them. If you have an Autozone near you, most of them will scan your codes and them clear them for you. I have a friend that clears mine and a very good dealer who will do it for no charge, but not everyone is that lucky.
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09-29-2005, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by toddztoyz
The leads on the resistor is what I was referring to as to what needed to be scraped a little.
Tomorrow when it is light out I will take a peek under our M6 car and make sure you have the right harness cause the reverse lockout and the CAGS harness are identical and are very easy to confuse. I know cause i did the wrong one. Any way back to the skip shift light, has it ever worked to your knowledge? If has not been tampered with it should light no matter if the CAGS is functional or not. You may have another problem that we are not seeing. I will get a picture of the harness and location and post it for you just to make sure we are eliminating the obvious problems. One last thing, certain codes set by the PCM require using a code scanner to remove them, I believe this is one of them. If you have an Autozone near you, most of them will scan your codes and them clear them for you. I have a friend that clears mine and a very good dealer who will do it for no charge, but not everyone is that lucky.
Tomorrow when it is light out I will take a peek under our M6 car and make sure you have the right harness cause the reverse lockout and the CAGS harness are identical and are very easy to confuse. I know cause i did the wrong one. Any way back to the skip shift light, has it ever worked to your knowledge? If has not been tampered with it should light no matter if the CAGS is functional or not. You may have another problem that we are not seeing. I will get a picture of the harness and location and post it for you just to make sure we are eliminating the obvious problems. One last thing, certain codes set by the PCM require using a code scanner to remove them, I believe this is one of them. If you have an Autozone near you, most of them will scan your codes and them clear them for you. I have a friend that clears mine and a very good dealer who will do it for no charge, but not everyone is that lucky.
Thanks for all the help - greatly appreciated guys - stevet
09-29-2005, 09:24 AM
#9
While it doesn't hurt to scarpe the resistor leads it ceratainly isn't neccessary. They come ready to be dropped on a PCB and soldered down (or in this case, jammed in). There is no film on the leads or tinning of any type, just conductor. Yep, I'm sure.
09-29-2005, 10:57 AM
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It sounds like you did the right harness. If you had done the reverse one by accident, you'd notice. However, if the skip shift light never comes on, either you never drive slow enough, or you have some other problem.
These two statements confuse me. Does the light come on? Or are they saying that someone may have disabled the light in that manner before you bought the car?
I agree with Frost about not having to scrape the leads of the resistor. If you needed to prepare anything for a better connection, it would be in female end of the CAGS plug.
I just did this mod yesterday. No scraping, no resetting the computer, and it works like a charm. Skip shift light comes on and car goes into 2nd.
Originally Posted by Tx02ssm
...I have never seen the skip shift light come on, on this car...
...a local tuning shop that told me they have a way to disable the skip shift light on the dash through the computer...
...a local tuning shop that told me they have a way to disable the skip shift light on the dash through the computer...
I agree with Frost about not having to scrape the leads of the resistor. If you needed to prepare anything for a better connection, it would be in female end of the CAGS plug.
I just did this mod yesterday. No scraping, no resetting the computer, and it works like a charm. Skip shift light comes on and car goes into 2nd.
10-07-2005, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by komik
It sounds like you did the right harness. If you had done the reverse one by accident, you'd notice. However, if the skip shift light never comes on, either you never drive slow enough, or you have some other problem.
These two statements confuse me. Does the light come on? Or are they saying that someone may have disabled the light in that manner before you bought the car?
I agree with Frost about not having to scrape the leads of the resistor. If you needed to prepare anything for a better connection, it would be in female end of the CAGS plug.
I just did this mod yesterday. No scraping, no resetting the computer, and it works like a charm. Skip shift light comes on and car goes into 2nd.
These two statements confuse me. Does the light come on? Or are they saying that someone may have disabled the light in that manner before you bought the car?
I agree with Frost about not having to scrape the leads of the resistor. If you needed to prepare anything for a better connection, it would be in female end of the CAGS plug.
I just did this mod yesterday. No scraping, no resetting the computer, and it works like a charm. Skip shift light comes on and car goes into 2nd.
Yeah - what I meant to say was that I have never seen the specifc skip shift light illuminate on my dash - but the SES light is on and that code is thrown - the skip shift code. The shop is saying they can tell the pcm not to send any code concerning the soleniod - so I think this means the SES light will not come on.... So in my 2nd statement I should have clarified by being specific about which dash light - in the 1st, I'm talking about the skip shift light (the one I have never seen come on), in the 2nd I am talking about the ServiceEngineSoon light, which has always been on since I bought the car. I just found a blown fuse - in the box closest to the front of the car, marked "Sensor Fuse" (or something close to that) - it is a 20amp and is burnt. I will replace this 20a fuse, reset and hope my codes are gone! I replaced the maf, checked for vacuum problems and added a hose clamp to my airbox-to-maf connector since I started this post - gottat get this dog inspected next week!
Thanks for all the help guys - appreciated - stevet
