What clutch will hold 1000 rwhp?
09-02-2006, 05:43 AM
#42
Originally Posted by koji777
Spec 5 took a dump after 500 miles, slipping bad...... or maybe I just need to heat her up. I dunno..... waiting on BYUNSPEED to confirm what clutch I need to go with.
750RWHP, 800-1000 RWTRQ
750RWHP, 800-1000 RWTRQ
09-02-2006, 08:43 AM
#43
I'm with Mightymouse. Most of the 5's are put in wrong which holds pressure against the PP and causes the clutch to slip.We've had the same good luck with alot of our high HP cars.
The SPEC dual is has been working awesome.Both of our real high HP cars have been enjoying them.Feel like a 3+ but holds unbelievable power. Either way anyone running a high hp clutch should be running a SFI bellhousing no matter what
The SPEC dual is has been working awesome.Both of our real high HP cars have been enjoying them.Feel like a 3+ but holds unbelievable power. Either way anyone running a high hp clutch should be running a SFI bellhousing no matter what
09-07-2006, 01:09 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by BOTTLEFEDLS1Z
Sorry for bringing up a old post, but hows the SPEC twin disk coming along??
But mcleod warrantied it for free and we are in the process of putting the new on back in, but im having trouble getting the tranny to slide against the bell housing.
09-13-2006, 04:18 AM
#52
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Textralia's Multi plates are able to be rebuilt with replacement consumable kits from $300.00 if ever you can wear one out?
Here's a quote from Nathan Higgins who is on top of his game with his set-up;
Here's a quote from Nathan Higgins who is on top of his game with his set-up;
Nathan Higgins – I battled with just about every clutch system available in the market place whilst heading for a 9 second pass. Some would only last 2 runs. I’ve had the Tex twin plate Exo-Skel in for over 50 passes and it is still like new and easy to drive. ET: 9.98@139 - N/A 6speed
09-13-2006, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
is there any documenation that any of these fancy clutches 'DO' hold this kind of power, instead of 'will' or 'should'?
09-13-2006, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
Matter's which Mcleod twin disk you use.The regular organic won't last long.The iron or ceramic will last alot longer.
We just got SPEC's new twin disk to test.It definitely looks beefy and will be going in our 408/T88 car
We just got SPEC's new twin disk to test.It definitely looks beefy and will be going in our 408/T88 car
09-13-2006, 01:35 PM
#56
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
is there any documenation that any of these fancy clutches 'DO' hold this kind of power, instead of 'will' or 'should'?
09-13-2006, 06:01 PM
#57
If you want a SERIOUS clutch you need a Tilton Carbon/carbon..... be prepared to spend serious cash.. But I belive Tilton is in more hardcore racing applications and has more R&D than all others combined... A Carbon clutch also drives waayy better than a metalic
09-14-2006, 01:42 PM
#58
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
CTS, have you ever driven a carbon/carbon unit?
You're saying a carbon/carbon clutch drives better than a cerametallic clutch?
I'm sorry, you need to check your facts. In fact that is not the case at all.
Yes, Tilton makes really nice clutches. Tilton's big market is road racing / NASCAR type applications. You want a light clutch that will hold power, but won't eat up gobs of power. That is why you have 3-5 disc clutches that are 7" in diameter. Other clutches similar to this are companies like Quartermaster. A Pro class Tilton is $10K.
Ask Lou Gilloti or Tony Mamo about trying to drag race a Carbon/Carbon clutch. If you race it cold, and try to slip it, you'll end up with a pile of carbon dust on the ground, and a destroyed clutch. So, you sit in the pits and slip the clutch to get some heat in it. When you launch the clutch has no slip and breaks the drivetrain.
See the issue with carbon is the hotter it gets, the sticker it gets. This is fine in road racing, but on the street and in drag racing its problematic. It a very on/off application. Its the same with carbon/carbon brakes. For instance, in a Pro-Stock car with Carbon brakes. When you apply the brakes, you squeeze and hold even pressure, you do not release them, period. If you do, and go to re-apply them the heat that is in the brakes will lock the tires immediately...
Take a Carbon/Carbon unit and put it on a dynojet, and it'll slip on the dyno when its cold. As soon as it starts to heat up it will hold.
Each material has its benefits and drawbacks. You have to understand your target audience and application.
You're saying a carbon/carbon clutch drives better than a cerametallic clutch?
I'm sorry, you need to check your facts. In fact that is not the case at all.
Yes, Tilton makes really nice clutches. Tilton's big market is road racing / NASCAR type applications. You want a light clutch that will hold power, but won't eat up gobs of power. That is why you have 3-5 disc clutches that are 7" in diameter. Other clutches similar to this are companies like Quartermaster. A Pro class Tilton is $10K.
Ask Lou Gilloti or Tony Mamo about trying to drag race a Carbon/Carbon clutch. If you race it cold, and try to slip it, you'll end up with a pile of carbon dust on the ground, and a destroyed clutch. So, you sit in the pits and slip the clutch to get some heat in it. When you launch the clutch has no slip and breaks the drivetrain.
See the issue with carbon is the hotter it gets, the sticker it gets. This is fine in road racing, but on the street and in drag racing its problematic. It a very on/off application. Its the same with carbon/carbon brakes. For instance, in a Pro-Stock car with Carbon brakes. When you apply the brakes, you squeeze and hold even pressure, you do not release them, period. If you do, and go to re-apply them the heat that is in the brakes will lock the tires immediately...
Take a Carbon/Carbon unit and put it on a dynojet, and it'll slip on the dyno when its cold. As soon as it starts to heat up it will hold.
Each material has its benefits and drawbacks. You have to understand your target audience and application.
09-14-2006, 05:09 PM
#60
I have never driven a Carbon clutch but I have driven a 3 disc centered metalic 7.25... Which allows no slippage what so ever...Look at the FAQ on Tiltons web site and you'll see that a triple plate Carbon clutch is most suited for road racing drag racing and high performance street applications..And as far as the chassis dyno goes I have spend many many hours on the chassis dyno and have never tried to make a run with all the componets cold you must first put some temp in everything to set an accurate baseline...but in street car stuff it dosent matter I guess.
Last edited by CTSmechanic; 09-14-2006 at 09:08 PM.
