Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 10:39 AM
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Hi All,

I've been lurking here for a while but I can't seem to find a definitive answer to the issue I'm having.

I'm running an LS1 T56 behind a 472 Cadillac in my 1936 Ford 3 window coupe. I'm running all the stock hydraulics (hydraulic throwout bearing, master and remote resevoir) which is hooked to a modifed 1939 pedal assembly. Clutch assembly is a Vallejo 11". Everything works great until I make a hot pass then it feels like the pedal goes away. I see where a lot of you guys have this kind of problem with your F Bodies but I can't seem to find where anyone has been able to fix it permanently.

FYI, I did have a '31 Ford roadster with a 514 inch Cadillac and an LT1 T56, I used a McLeod hydraulic thowout bearing and Centerforce clutch, that combination was just as finicky.

Any ideas?
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 11:04 AM
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Make sure the hydraulic line from the master to slave cylinder isnt close to the exhaust. Heat is a big problem.

Maybe try insulating the line also.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 11:30 AM
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If stock, you master has a feed orifice that can cause quick shift probs. Search for the drill mod.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Schraders
Hi All,

I've been lurking here for a while but I can't seem to find a definitive answer to the issue I'm having.

I'm running an LS1 T56 behind a 472 Cadillac in my 1936 Ford 3 window coupe. I'm running all the stock hydraulics (hydraulic throwout bearing, master and remote resevoir) which is hooked to a modifed 1939 pedal assembly. Clutch assembly is a Vallejo 11". Everything works great until I make a hot pass then it feels like the pedal goes away. I see where a lot of you guys have this kind of problem with your F Bodies but I can't seem to find where anyone has been able to fix it permanently.

FYI, I did have a '31 Ford roadster with a 514 inch Cadillac and an LT1 T56, I used a McLeod hydraulic thowout bearing and Centerforce clutch, that combination was just as finicky.

Any ideas?
That is just to damn cool
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 08:25 PM
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Perform the drill mod and insulate the line as already stated (3/8" heater hose works nicely). Get the line as far as possible from the exhaust heat so it won't cook the hydraulic fluid.
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Krab
Perform the drill mod and insulate the line as already stated (3/8" heater hose works nicely). Get the line as far as possible from the exhaust heat so it won't cook the hydraulic fluid.
ditto
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 09:24 PM
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got pix of that car...sounds awesome
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 09:25 PM
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got pix of that car...sounds awesome...why did u use hydraulcsover a cable like in lt1. every ls1 m6 owner hates the hydraulics
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 09:32 PM
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Thanks for the advice and the kudos! I'll give the drill mod a shot.

Here's a shot of the '36 at Bonneville and you can see some more of what I do at www.schraderspeedshop.com.
Attached Thumbnails Here's One For The Experts?-resize-110-1094_img.jpg  
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by purple98haz28
got pix of that car...sounds awesome...why did u use hydraulcsover a cable like in lt1. every ls1 m6 owner hates the hydraulics
lt1's dont use a cable clutch...they use the old style hydraulics with an external slave and clutch fork
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by tippmann243
lt1's dont use a cable clutch...they use the old style hydraulics with an external slave and clutch fork
Only the Ford 03/04 Cobra uses the cable system.
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 06:31 AM
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oh my bad. i had been misinformed. i still hate the clutch hydraulics tho
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