WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

ok well i just checked the master, the pedal didnt budge when it was disconnected. then i moved the line over, it did look kinda close to the header.

what can i put around it to keep it from getting hot? i could hear fluid squirting kinda when my dad was pumping the clutch is that normal? i dont know if it was just the fluid being forced through the orifice or what. so it seems that the master should be ok. anything else i can try to check out?

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

p mack, when you disconnected the master line, did your pedal move? mine keeps acting up. one min it feels normal and the next its not. itll grab normal some times in the middle and the more time its running it gets lower, and its not consistent at all. this morning it grabbed low but after i came home, shut the car off and went back out 2 hrs later it caught in the middle. i just want to get this taken care of.

i also reved it up with the cltuch in to about 5k or so when i went by someone i knew and then when i went to take off the pedal caught higher and towards the end almost felt like it was stuck but then came up. this is just a pita to drive

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I didn't try pushing the pedal with the line disconnected cause i knew it was the mcleod so i don't know if the test would've worked or not. Maybe you could try wrapping some of that aluminum tape or header wrap around the line and see if that helps.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i did, i rebled the clutch the other day and put aluminum tape all around the line and moved it out of the way, still the same thing. i am thinking about swapping out masters and seeing if that helps. that is about the only thing that could cause inconsistancy in pedal feel i would think

roadrash9r

iTrader: (2)

hey update on mine. It was the pressure plate bolts one was threading out but the rest still had some torque on them so one bolt comming loose will cause disengagment issues and a wandering clutch pedal. I went over them all again and now engagment is a little above halfway and is consistent. If you have tried everything else try this. Remember to use locktite and torque is 54 ft lbs.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

well thats not what i wanted to hear lol. i used loctite and torqued them to 54 ft lbs. damn i really dont want to go back in there and do that ****. what were the symptoms of yours? did you notice any vibrations or anything? i dont see how in the hell it could back out with loctite on there. and i let it sit over night beforei drove it. and i prob have to pull the bellhousing off to get at those bolts. its a damn pain to drop the tranny on there in the garage.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i also dont see how it can be related, but if it fixed the problem then damn

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

plus what gets me is the free play at the top of the clutch, if it was a loose bolt, wouldnt i have less free play?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Lol I think that statement applies to everything.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

so i took the master out, bench bled it, put it on the car and bled the whole system. the first mile the car felt great, then back to the same old thing. if i pump the clutch up it would go back to being ok just for a little bit. the car pulls like a SOB in all the geras, no vibrations, i can shift through the gears very fast, they dont feel notchy.

i am just thinking if i pump it up maybeit moved the slaves piston to the throwout bearing and press it agaisnt the pp, maybe it pulls fluid from the resivor and and once i drive it it works its way back up. i have no idea. all i know is it is consistently inconsistent. i can make it catch normal with no play and then after a mile, every time, it will go back to slight play up top (which has gotten better with more miles) and grabbing lower. maybe i can cross my fingers and it will work itself out.