Why won't it come out!
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Why won't it come out! I have a new clutch kit coming and need to drop the tranny out. I have all 8 15 mm bolts out of the Tranny-bellhousing connection, why can't i get the 2 to separate? what is holding it on? The input shaft jsut wont slide out (car has 140K on it maybe that woould be a reason) but this is becomming frustrating. I have 2 jacks supporting the trans cuz i do not have a trans jack, but i've done this before several other cars.
Any input would be greatly appreciated
Any input would be greatly appreciated
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Where should i place the pry bar and am i going to have to worry about breaking the dowels (any pics woul be kinda nice too i am a visual learner so pictures help me remember alot)
i dont remember if there are any places to pry like there are where the bell housing meets the motor. Maybe try to get in there with a small screwdriver first and then wedge in a prybar and go to town. Try working all the way around using the flat head screw driver and prybar. I had the same problem with unbolting my bellhousing from the motor, but thanks to two friends, 3 prybars, 2 broken screwdrivers, WD40, a few beers and a large dictionary of profanity we had the tranny out three hours later. (we had to take a few breaks) Good luck!
Brent
Brent
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Broke my screw driver there is one spot i found @ i would say 2 O'Clock if you look form the rear... snapped right off. :-/ any other ideas i'm not findint where i can fit a pry bar
There are two recessed spots where the trans meets the bellhousing that you should be able to use to pry them apart. They'll look like rectangles maybe about 1/4" long and they sit right next to the dowels. The dowels can get pretty tight and you should try and work the transmission off straight. If you pry one side too far before the other it'll just make the other dowel bind up. Be careful though, damage to the mating surfaces, damage to the dowels, or warping/damaging the bellhousing could lead to alignment problems when you put it back together. Just keep working at it.
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Got it guys Thanks...
But Now another problem haha... the slave cyl. has the steel braided hose plugged into it correct? It has a yellow connection of some sort... Well i coulndt separate the two, and a problem happened the tranny dropped further than expected i caught it but the piece inside the slave broke off (the end piece). What is this? does it come on a new slave cylinder and how does it disconnect from the Hose... need to know ASAP
But Now another problem haha... the slave cyl. has the steel braided hose plugged into it correct? It has a yellow connection of some sort... Well i coulndt separate the two, and a problem happened the tranny dropped further than expected i caught it but the piece inside the slave broke off (the end piece). What is this? does it come on a new slave cylinder and how does it disconnect from the Hose... need to know ASAP
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the tranny doesnt weigh that much, I only weigh 185lbs and i was able to benchpress it in and out of the car without any major problems, i've found if you just grab the tailshaft and wiggle it back and forth a lot itll come out eventually.
as for the clutch line that broke off, you'll prolly have to buy a new one, you needed to pop that line off befor eyou pulled the tranny out, or had somebody with a 10mm gearwrench unbolt the slave with the tranny pulled out about 3" from the bellhousing.
as for the clutch line that broke off, you'll prolly have to buy a new one, you needed to pop that line off befor eyou pulled the tranny out, or had somebody with a 10mm gearwrench unbolt the slave with the tranny pulled out about 3" from the bellhousing.
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yeah i unbolted the slave. f-ing thing wasnt coming out, and i couldnt figure out how the steel braided line separated from it so when it did come out, it kinda dropped cuz i thought that the input shaft was a little longer, apparently not. So, how does the "quick connect" on the steel hose disconnect?
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How does the Slave Cylinder Quick Disconnect separate w/ the hose? My car has 140K on it and i'm not seeing how this will separate... it jsut wont come off...any advice, or ideas/pics or whatever instruction on how it separates. (The hydraulic input to the slave is what i broke...this is why i ask)
There is a little plastic clip that you need to push in to release the line. You need to push and wiggle the line when you do it. It can be kind of a bitch. Once you get it apart you will understand. Try doing a search for a photo.
I know the bellhousing fiasco. One of the dowels stayed in my bellhousing when I took mine apart. Use anti-seize when you put it together.
Good Luck!!
I know the bellhousing fiasco. One of the dowels stayed in my bellhousing when I took mine apart. Use anti-seize when you put it together.
Good Luck!!
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OK update....so the tranny is out the slave cyl, broke the quick disconnect @ the base/inlet of the slave cylinder. How can i get the steel braided hose separated? can somebody explain how this disconnect is supposed to open/close for some reason i am not figuring it out.
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
OK update....so the tranny is out the slave cyl, broke the quick disconnect @ the base/inlet of the slave cylinder. How can i get the steel braided hose separated? can somebody explain how this disconnect is supposed to open/close for some reason i am not figuring it out.
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I did the same thing and tried to get away without seperating the clutch system and dropped the tranny on install, and unless you can find the inlet line to the slave (I didn't even try) you'll need a new slave, which is probably good for how many miles you have. There should be a plastic ring on the quick disconnect (if not you're screwed and will need a new OEM master or find a used one on ebay for the line). Push the plastic ring evenly into the fitting (toward where the slave would be) its going to push a bunch of little fingers inside toward the fitting's outside and release the quick disconnect. Mine had a diagonal cut in the ring so make sure when you push one side you aren't pushing up the other, I've read where some have to keep pressure on two sides of the ring to make it engage the fingers.
you get 2 small flat heads and press the white tab into the slave or whats left of it. once its all the way in, then you just pull it out. with the stress you've put on the line, id be safe and get a new master cylinder and line. The last thing you want is to have to do it over again.
