View Poll Results: Would you spend the money for it?
Yes
58
72.50%
No
22
27.50%
Voters: 80. You may not vote on this poll
If there was a manual clutch setup available for LS1's would you buy it?
02-22-2006, 01:32 PM
#23
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Madman offered start producing one if someone would let him use their car as a test mule. He's in the process of moving to Thunder Racing right now though so I doubt he'd have time for it at the moment.
02-22-2006, 10:12 PM
#24
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I'd be up for a cable clutch setup as well. I haven't had any problems with the clutch sticking to the floor, and I didn't even do the drill mod like I thought the shop that installed my clutch did. However, ever since I got that updated slave cylinder with a Z06 clutch, the pedal got lighter, too light for me. It is easy to motor around in rush hour, but I also feel like I'm driving a 4cyl car at times. I also like how the clutch travel on Mustangs is shorter then our cars.
My foot also has a tendency to slip off the pedal, but that's probably because the pedal is bald now.
Jason
My foot also has a tendency to slip off the pedal, but that's probably because the pedal is bald now.
Jason
Last edited by Camaro99SS; 02-24-2006 at 01:46 PM.
02-23-2006, 01:59 PM
#25
I definitely think that whoever makes it will see a good turn-out money wise. I was thinking that it would be pretty much 50/50 on hydraulic or manual or even the rod style. The beatdown of having one more thing that contains fluid just drives me crazy, especially since mine is always messin' up it seems.
03-07-2006, 11:31 PM
#27
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No problem with the hydraulics once I learned how to properly bleed them. granted the learning curve is a lot less forgiving with hydraulics, but once you get it right, they work very well.
Mike
Mike
03-08-2006, 12:01 AM
#28
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I have a problem with neither, but you generally get more feel from a cable clutch IMO. I've really like the one's Iv'e driven.
Last edited by Nick04; 03-08-2006 at 12:11 AM.
04-05-2006, 11:26 PM
#30
I would buy a cable clutch. Who care's if a hydraulic clutch is easier to push in, if it's always sticking to the floor! 
I had a mustang and the clutch was way better than my crappy hydraulic clutch. Who cares if a cable clutch takes more effort to depress.....it's a SPORTS CAR not an SUV! 
I had a mustang and the clutch was way better than my crappy hydraulic clutch. Who cares if a cable clutch takes more effort to depress.....it's a SPORTS CAR not an SUV! 
04-06-2006, 01:41 PM
#32
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I prefer the hydraulic set up because it is more streetable, which is where I use my cars most.It allows for a high clamp load / performance clutch without having a gross effort to release it, like the cable system would with the same performance.There are bad mechanical sysetms out there too. Some have said how great the Mustang system is-- no way. Their cable adjusting mechanism is complete junk. Thats why they went to hydraulic in 05. People here are poo-pooing hydraulics based on the LS1 system which is not a good example.Hydraulic systems are the best IMO.
04-25-2006, 12:53 PM
#35
My old 88 t-bird (5.0HO/t5 with centerforce clutch swapped in) was fun as hell and easy to drive. Great feel to it and not tiring at all, even at high rpm when the centerforce is putting etra load on it its still easy enough to shift it. I agree if you cant handle a cable clutch you need to go to the gym. I am a big guy though at 6'3" 260 so maybe im a bad example to use for how heavy it really is?
But my hydraulic hasnt given me the slightest bit of trouble so i wouldnt mess with it as of now.
But my hydraulic hasnt given me the slightest bit of trouble so i wouldnt mess with it as of now.
05-26-2006, 09:59 AM
#37
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Not to get off subject, but if you are having bleeding problems, try this...
Attach a Mity Vac to a rubber stopper that will fit into the opening of the fluid reservoir via a brass tube through the rubber stopper. See the pic below. Make sure that the brass tube does not pick up brake fluid and pull about 20 in-hg of vacuum for a minute or two. Release the vacuum and pump the pedal. Repeat if needed.
I have tried this multiple times with success on my Firebird after clutch swaps. (By the way, this method is the only way to bleed 05 and up Mustangs because they have no accessable bleeders and is outlined in the repair manual.)
One side note... this may not work if there is too much air in the system. Try pre-filling and pre-bleeding brand new master and slave cyls prior to installation.
Chris
Attach a Mity Vac to a rubber stopper that will fit into the opening of the fluid reservoir via a brass tube through the rubber stopper. See the pic below. Make sure that the brass tube does not pick up brake fluid and pull about 20 in-hg of vacuum for a minute or two. Release the vacuum and pump the pedal. Repeat if needed.
I have tried this multiple times with success on my Firebird after clutch swaps. (By the way, this method is the only way to bleed 05 and up Mustangs because they have no accessable bleeders and is outlined in the repair manual.)
One side note... this may not work if there is too much air in the system. Try pre-filling and pre-bleeding brand new master and slave cyls prior to installation.
Chris
05-29-2006, 08:30 PM
#39
From an engine swapper's perspective, I like the hydraulic setup and this is all I've used on my Chevy V8 swaps: Gen1/RX7/T5, LT1/280Z/T56, and Gen3/Supra/Toyota R154 (planning). Then again, all of these cars had an OEM hydraulic clutch so it was a relatively minor issue to fabricate a hose from master to slave cylinder.
The 1965-68 Corvairs had an issue with clutch cables, and in 1969 (last year of production
) Chevy made a fix that eliminated a weak spot where it hooked to the crossbar under the dash. My '65 has the later cable and while infrequently driven, I've never had to replace it in 28 years!
The 1965-68 Corvairs had an issue with clutch cables, and in 1969 (last year of production
) Chevy made a fix that eliminated a weak spot where it hooked to the crossbar under the dash. My '65 has the later cable and while infrequently driven, I've never had to replace it in 28 years! 