Clutch problem on daily driver.....need help!
03-20-2006, 08:33 AM
#21
Originally Posted by ninobrn99
thats not good!! 
did u see any leaks on the line itself? if not, then your slave took a ****.
did u see any leaks on the line itself? if not, then your slave took a ****.
Well, at least its not too expensive of a part. The labor will probably be the killer, I guess. I'd do it myself, but I live in an apartment, and I dont have any access to a lift, or the proper tools at the time. Time to go to the stealership.... 
If I get a new slave, should I do the drill mod to it anyway? Also, anybody know where I can get a write up on how to do the drill mod? Thanks again, guys. I appreciate everyones help.
03-20-2006, 08:44 AM
#22
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you do the drill mod on the master, not the slave. installuniversity.com has the write-up. its easy. Arent you in the corps?? you guys dont have a hobby shop? we do (navy) I pulled my master at my apt., i also pulled my cam and heads 
03-20-2006, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 98SS2836
You have to vacuum bleed it from the top reservoir find a old car somewhere get a vacuum bleeder like the mighty vac (25$) drill a small hole in the old cap you'll already see a little hole in it just drill there with one of the adapters from the mighty vac place it in the hole pull to about 15in of vacuum do not exceed 15 in you'll see the fluid come up and hear air bubbles bubbling. Repeat till you do not hear any bubbles. Done no going under the car. I Have a factory service bulletin on the upgrade bleeding procedure ill try to dig it out and post it.
Don't replace the slave cylinder just yet. First, fill up the master cylinder with fluid, then bleed through the bleeder valve on the slave, then add fluid, then bleed through the slave, then add fluid, etc. Once you've done this about 6 times, make sure the bleeder valve is closed tightly (don't over-torque!) and use the mityvac on the hole at the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir with one of those conical tips that comes with the mityvac. Pump out the air bubbles through there until you get very few coming up through the line. Drive your car around to see how the clutch feels and check if you have the same symptoms you were having before. If not, then you're done and maybe the culprit of this problem was that your bleeder valve was not closed completely. If your problem continues, then move onto replacing parts.