Here's how to bleed the clutch without getting under the car.
#81
When you bleed with the mity vac are u putting the jay tool on top of the cup or inserting the end into the reservoir hole? And while pumping it does ur pedal pressures engagement point start to drop while doing this?
#82
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i dont really get this method if u shove the nozzel in the hole and create vaccum with the pump i understand it will be pulling air from the master and slave when u pump the pedal but its obviously pulling fluid what keeps it from running dry with fluid? since if u have the nozzle in the hole it doesnt matter how much fluid is in the cup
#88
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The point is to create a vacuum condition that draws the air towards it. It isn't to empty the reservoir, it isn't to empty the line. It's to make the bubbles come towards the vac. . .
#89
i am having a serious issue with my hydraulic system intermittently failing on me, i replaced the slave, the master and line. i would bleed it the normal way and it would work great/drive fine for a day. next day pedal feels a little firmer and car wont go into gear. i tried the mighty vac method and when i pump the vac up to 10-12hg the needle starts to drop, so while my buddy pumps the pedal i increase the vacuum (not going above 12hg) but the needle still drops slowly. then the car goes into gear as if i got the air outta the line. i also noticed the canister on the mighty vac doesnt seal that great either, please give me some insight as to what is happening here.
#91
you mean the cap on my reservoir or the cap on the mighty vac? the cap on my reservoir is the gm factory cap, but the cap on the mighty vac seems to suck in air since it has a crappy design to lock the cap onto the canister, almost like a prescription canister. i did the bleeding according to the way i saw in the first post. is anyone else having this problem with their mighty vac? stupid hydraulics.......
#92
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I meant the reservoir cap - if you have the GM cap, it's less likely to be the culprit. I know what you mean about where the hose clip attaches to the Mity Vac cap. I've seen them leak there. If that's it, a little ring clamp should permit a tighter fit.
BobP
BobP
#93
It leaks from the cap it sounds like. At about 7-12hg. Its not threaded, one cap has no slots on top and one is a plain cap w/ no holes. I'm using the plain one. Maybe its defective like my ride.
#98
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Sweet
I replaced the master cylinder on a buddies 99 TA last night. We tried to blead it manually with no success. However I stumbled onto this thread this morning. Sounds like alot of people have used it with much success. I will continue with it later on today. Wish me luck, and thanks againg to Tech.
#99
good luck, I found this thread when I put in the McLeod MC with my twin. For me it did not work, just sucked all the fluid out of the MC at any PSI. 5, 10, 15 it didn't matter.
With that said I have a "custom" pedal/hydraulic set up and use F-body hydraulics in my B-body. This makes the "inlet" of fluid into the MC from resovoir at a position where air can get traped in MC as it it not at the highest point. I wound up pulling my entire hydraulic/pedal assembly out to bench bleed.
You may have better luck as a Mighty Vac should induce vacuum and draw the air bubbles out. Maybe it works better on LS vs the LT1 pull style system
With that said I have a "custom" pedal/hydraulic set up and use F-body hydraulics in my B-body. This makes the "inlet" of fluid into the MC from resovoir at a position where air can get traped in MC as it it not at the highest point. I wound up pulling my entire hydraulic/pedal assembly out to bench bleed.
You may have better luck as a Mighty Vac should induce vacuum and draw the air bubbles out. Maybe it works better on LS vs the LT1 pull style system