View Poll Results: aluminum or steel
this is a waste of a thread, keep steel you idiot
120
42.86%
stop being a puss and get aluminum
160
57.14%
Voters: 280. You may not vote on this poll
aluminum flywheel for 1/4 mile car
04-24-2006, 02:23 AM
#21
Originally Posted by 383ss
ummm, what?? that is completely false. the heavier flywheel WILL NOT help the car accelerate the car once its moving. it will resist it. the arguement here is if it will hurt launching the car. the heavier flywheel will have more stored energy when it is sitting there spinning waiting to launch the car. when you dump the clutch, this energy is released. that is the gain from a steele flywheel, you have more stored energy at launch. once you do launch the steele flywheel is only added weight that has to be spun.
I was always skeptical of aluminum flywheels until I saw tim tosto use one. he has the 6spd record with a 9.71 and mid 1.3X 60'. it launches HARD and consistant. I wouldn't hesitate getting one for a 1/4 mile car in an f-body.
I was always skeptical of aluminum flywheels until I saw tim tosto use one. he has the 6spd record with a 9.71 and mid 1.3X 60'. it launches HARD and consistant. I wouldn't hesitate getting one for a 1/4 mile car in an f-body.
ummm what? Where did i say it will help after launching and accelerating other then at shifts? I said the heavier weight will want to keep itself spinning and not want to drop as many rpm on launch and between shifts. Which is true. Dunno wher eyou got the after its locked up and then accelerating agian, thats where the aluminum has an advantage ill give you that. Now you gotta figure out what will help your paplication more. The havier flywheel trying to hold its rpm more, or an aluminum which will want to drop rpm more as it engages, but spins up easier once its locked up. Im sticking to my heavier is better theory.
04-24-2006, 02:26 AM
#22
Originally Posted by 383ss
the arguement here is if it will hurt launching the car. the heavier flywheel will have more stored energy when it is sitting there spinning waiting to launch the car. when you dump the clutch, this energy is released. that is the gain from a steele flywheel, you have more stored energy at launch. once you do launch the steele flywheel is only added weight that has to be spun.
04-24-2006, 09:59 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by BIG BAD BLACKSS
ummm what? Where did i say it will help after launching and accelerating other then at shifts? I said the heavier weight will want to keep itself spinning and not want to drop as many rpm on launch and between shifts. Which is true. Dunno wher eyou got the after its locked up and then accelerating agian, thats where the aluminum has an advantage ill give you that. Now you gotta figure out what will help your paplication more. The havier flywheel trying to hold its rpm more, or an aluminum which will want to drop rpm more as it engages, but spins up easier once its locked up. Im sticking to my heavier is better theory.
maybe I was drinking 
i read it as the heavier will help with acelleration after launch. I agree with it not 'wanting' to drop as much inbetween shifts. but why is that a factor? they will both drop the same rpms between shifts regardless of weight.
04-24-2006, 03:32 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by 383ss
they will both drop the same rpms between shifts regardless of weight.
The best way to test this theory is to powershift a car with a heavy flywheel, and then install an aluminum flywheel and drive it exactly the same and see what happens. We can sit here and argue forever about it. I have read in more than one instance though that in a high powered car, the aluminum flywheel offers a total E.T. advantage given proper traction.
I have seen where an aluminum flywheel is good for 10 RWHP....again, in a high powered car....it is a percentage gain issue. I have a Fidanza billet aluminum flywheel waiting to go in that weighs 12 pounds. The stocker weighs like 30 pounds right? That is a HUGE difference in rotating mass. For someone like me who doesn't launch off of the limiter anyway, I will gladly increase my launch RPM a bit to make up for the lighter flywheel, and then enjoy the gains the rest of the way.
04-24-2006, 08:58 PM
#25
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it seems really like it is hard to see if the positives outweigh the negatives, because they both have their strong points. i dont plan to powershift the car, nor bounce it off the rev limiter dropping the clutch (even though it sounds fun).
so im stuck on which one to go with. i know its harder to launch with a lighter flywheel because when i went to the 9lb flywheel in my other car, you had to be good holding rpms because it revved up and down so quickly, but after you got going it made me feel like i had a different gearing in the car because it went through the gears quickly
so im stuck on which one to go with. i know its harder to launch with a lighter flywheel because when i went to the 9lb flywheel in my other car, you had to be good holding rpms because it revved up and down so quickly, but after you got going it made me feel like i had a different gearing in the car because it went through the gears quickly
04-24-2006, 09:19 PM
#26
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Stocker is 24LBS.
Originally Posted by ChevyWeatherman
Not true, the aluminum flywheel will lose more RPM than a heavier flywheel while the throttle is closed shifting. My buddy runs a winged sprint car with a Kriner 414 solid roller SBC with NO flywheel attached (no transmission). That motor will go from idle to 9500 RPM and back to idle within half a second (so awesome by the way) when you crack the throttle wide open. And if powershifting, the aluminum flywheel will bog more when the clutch is engaged after each shift. The question is, does the decreased rotational mass of the aluminum flywheel overcome the advantages of the heavier flywheel during clutch engagement (the key here is that the ONLY time the heavier flywheel is an advantage is during actual clutch engagement).
The best way to test this theory is to powershift a car with a heavy flywheel, and then install an aluminum flywheel and drive it exactly the same and see what happens. We can sit here and argue forever about it. I have read in more than one instance though that in a high powered car, the aluminum flywheel offers a total E.T. advantage given proper traction.
I have seen where an aluminum flywheel is good for 10 RWHP....again, in a high powered car....it is a percentage gain issue. I have a Fidanza billet aluminum flywheel waiting to go in that weighs 12 pounds. The stocker weighs like 30 pounds right? That is a HUGE difference in rotating mass. For someone like me who doesn't launch off of the limiter anyway, I will gladly increase my launch RPM a bit to make up for the lighter flywheel, and then enjoy the gains the rest of the way.
The best way to test this theory is to powershift a car with a heavy flywheel, and then install an aluminum flywheel and drive it exactly the same and see what happens. We can sit here and argue forever about it. I have read in more than one instance though that in a high powered car, the aluminum flywheel offers a total E.T. advantage given proper traction.
I have seen where an aluminum flywheel is good for 10 RWHP....again, in a high powered car....it is a percentage gain issue. I have a Fidanza billet aluminum flywheel waiting to go in that weighs 12 pounds. The stocker weighs like 30 pounds right? That is a HUGE difference in rotating mass. For someone like me who doesn't launch off of the limiter anyway, I will gladly increase my launch RPM a bit to make up for the lighter flywheel, and then enjoy the gains the rest of the way.
04-25-2006, 10:24 AM
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IMO it just comes down to how you drive your car. if its a high hp drag car, a 500rwhp+ an aluminum would probably be better. if its a street/strip car thats heavier/slower and needs help launching steele is the way to go.
the next time I need a new clutch, I'm going to go with a SPEC V lightweight w/ aluminum flywheel. hopefully that will be the only change on the car and I'll report my results.
the next time I need a new clutch, I'm going to go with a SPEC V lightweight w/ aluminum flywheel. hopefully that will be the only change on the car and I'll report my results.
04-25-2006, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG BAD BLACKSS
Id also think a big cammed street car would be easier to drive with the steel flywheel. Again just my opinion though.
04-26-2006, 11:29 PM
#30
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They are telling you to get the billet steel because it is a middle-weight. I think its somewhere around 18 lbs (probably wrong on the exact number), which is a good balance between the two.
I'm going aluminum (waiting for it right now, UPS dropped it and broke a tooth off it ) but then again I've only been to the drags once and I like to RR.
According to the Joe at T56rebuilds they lost over a half second when they installed their aluminum fw, probably off the launch but then again look at the people here who say they are cutting the same 60s when they went aluminum. I think it would come down in how you drive the car, I'm sure it's something that you could adapt to.
I'm going aluminum (waiting for it right now, UPS dropped it and broke a tooth off it
) but then again I've only been to the drags once and I like to RR.According to the Joe at T56rebuilds they lost over a half second when they installed their aluminum fw, probably off the launch but then again look at the people here who say they are cutting the same 60s when they went aluminum. I think it would come down in how you drive the car, I'm sure it's something that you could adapt to.
04-27-2006, 12:45 AM
#33
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i dont plan on any 10sec track only car, just a bolt on car with hopefully at least a cam, i guess i will just leave the stocker because if an aluminum was so great we wouldnt be having these kind of debates, so i guesss there is really nothing to gain.
now i just have to choose a clutch
now i just have to choose a clutch
04-27-2006, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BIG BAD BLACKSS
Considering your low 13 second ETs id have to say the heavier steel would be better for you. Unless your planning a huge buildup any time in the near future. Itll drive nicer and hit the gears hard which is fun but a lil harsher on the rearend.
yup
05-08-2006, 04:26 PM
#38
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Your poll made me LOL.
I road race drag and autoX. I've yet to do any road/autoX in my camaro though.
In my hatch it helped a ton and was awesome on a daily driver now that car makes around 140 ft lbs of torque *its alot for a 1.8L stop laughing...* Drag i had no problem launching it on slicks or streets.
My camaro will be mainly driven on the street with track events here and there its way nicer to autoX road race with and i liked it better to drag with my 60fts never changed.
I hope to upgrade to one quite soon on my camaro. I think unless you are just draging aluim is the way to go.
I road race drag and autoX. I've yet to do any road/autoX in my camaro though.
In my hatch it helped a ton and was awesome on a daily driver now that car makes around 140 ft lbs of torque *its alot for a 1.8L stop laughing...* Drag i had no problem launching it on slicks or streets.
My camaro will be mainly driven on the street with track events here and there its way nicer to autoX road race with and i liked it better to drag with my 60fts never changed.
I hope to upgrade to one quite soon on my camaro. I think unless you are just draging aluim is the way to go.
05-08-2006, 06:54 PM
#39
did you get a rear yet? If not don't even think about trying to get a good 60ft.with the 10 bolt. Your better off with your stock flywheel. Everyone already made all the good points why, but I didn't read anywhere that you had changed your stock rear yet
05-10-2006, 03:48 AM
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Works fine for a daily driver or a racer. Adjust your launch at the dragstrip. Learn how to modulate the throttle better during shifts if you're worried about dropping RPM's between gears.
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0407vet_flywheel/
As a side note: we have noticed much less heat transfer to the engine during stop and go traffic in Phoenix, AZ.
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0407vet_flywheel/
As a side note: we have noticed much less heat transfer to the engine during stop and go traffic in Phoenix, AZ.