View Poll Results: aluminum or steel
this is a waste of a thread, keep steel you idiot
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120
42.86%
stop being a puss and get aluminum
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160
57.14%
Voters: 280. You may not vote on this poll
aluminum flywheel for 1/4 mile car
#41
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Instead of argueing, just follow these simple guidlines. A 10sec and under car will benefit with a steel flywheel (they have enough torque to move the mass, and keep the rotational inertia going). Anything slower will benefit with a light flywheel (Allows to rev quickly and keep the RPM's high, where they're needed). Give or take a half-a-second, that's the general rule-of-thumb.
#43
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Fidanza alum flywheel with RAM 910/VDS setup here and I love it. Daily driver and driven hard. Mainly road race for fun, but do go drag racing also.
My 1/4 mile times are horrible as I'm running 6 year old Nitto DR's and road race suspension (super stiff); however with some new tires I imagine I can get in the 1.50's and rip off a high 10 n/a. (stock '99 shortblock with rod bolts, milled AFR 205's, TSP 233/239 cam, headers, LS6 intake/ported TB, UD pulley). With a 150hp nitrous shot I'm hoping for a 9.99@145mph with M6.
I say go aluminum.
My 1/4 mile times are horrible as I'm running 6 year old Nitto DR's and road race suspension (super stiff); however with some new tires I imagine I can get in the 1.50's and rip off a high 10 n/a. (stock '99 shortblock with rod bolts, milled AFR 205's, TSP 233/239 cam, headers, LS6 intake/ported TB, UD pulley). With a 150hp nitrous shot I'm hoping for a 9.99@145mph with M6.
I say go aluminum.
#45
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The freaking cobra comes stock with a 12lb flywheel!
I don't think that anyone has mentioned the fact that a light flywheel also makes downshifts a little smoother, which can really help on a road course.
I have heard that aluminum can warp if over heated, and that billet steel is much less likely to do that.
Presuming that's true, and you have a little finesse (sounds like you do) lighter is always faster once you're moving. That's a fact. Why do you think we go through so much trouble with carbon driveshafts, forged wheels, and even forged pistons operate on the same principle. The less weight you are accelerating, the faster you're going to get there.
Does anyone know the weight of the LS2 flywheel?
Last edited by GIGAPUNK; 05-20-2006 at 12:57 AM.
#46
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damn you, damn you all
im ordering a clutch soon, which i still cant decide on because i hear bad thing about everything.
my setup hopefully will consist of a good rear with some 4.10s, some drag radials, and hopefully a good sized cam one day.
it sounds like everybody has different opinions, and everybody makes a good point about everything, so it looks like its a coin toss between the two.
to bad nobody has some before and after results on how a different flywheel helped/hurt 60fts and 1/4 mile
im ordering a clutch soon, which i still cant decide on because i hear bad thing about everything.
my setup hopefully will consist of a good rear with some 4.10s, some drag radials, and hopefully a good sized cam one day.
it sounds like everybody has different opinions, and everybody makes a good point about everything, so it looks like its a coin toss between the two.
to bad nobody has some before and after results on how a different flywheel helped/hurt 60fts and 1/4 mile
#47
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Originally Posted by JDP
damn you, damn you all
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Yes i do agree, im in the same boat, what did you go with??
i'm leaving this poll still undecided. And actually more curious than I was about aluminum.
It seems the hesitation to go with them is old-schoolism. And isn't that always the case whenever a newer possibly improved product debuts.
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i think im going with the billet steel, i still didnt get a clutch yet because ive been hurting for money.
im kind of pissed because i want to run this car with the full exhaust and a clutch that doesnt slip.
im kind of pissed because i want to run this car with the full exhaust and a clutch that doesnt slip.
#51
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Originally Posted by ls1z01
DoC
#52
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1. Only take advice about flywheels from those that have actually OWNED and DRIVEN them.
2. Take that advice with a grain of salt.
FWIW, I've had the stocker, the Ram Billet steel, and now my lightweight RPS in my car. I never weighed the stock setup, but that **** was heavy. So was the Ram setup, as it weighed 57 lbs total (PP, flywheel, clutch disc). My RPS weighed in at 37 lbs total.
It made a very noticeable difference on the street. It isn't any harder to get going from stoplight to stoplight like some people say, and my car is a full weight porker (~3600 lbs with a full tank of gas, without me). So that's ~3800 lbs with me in it. If I had to do it all over again, I'd do the RPS in a heartbeat.
The biggest disadvantage of lightweight components:
Price
My $.02.
2. Take that advice with a grain of salt.
FWIW, I've had the stocker, the Ram Billet steel, and now my lightweight RPS in my car. I never weighed the stock setup, but that **** was heavy. So was the Ram setup, as it weighed 57 lbs total (PP, flywheel, clutch disc). My RPS weighed in at 37 lbs total.
It made a very noticeable difference on the street. It isn't any harder to get going from stoplight to stoplight like some people say, and my car is a full weight porker (~3600 lbs with a full tank of gas, without me). So that's ~3800 lbs with me in it. If I had to do it all over again, I'd do the RPS in a heartbeat.
The biggest disadvantage of lightweight components:
Price
My $.02.
#53
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I just went from Aluminum Fidanza w/ Centerforce to LS2 w/ LS7 clutch. What a world of difference. If it is a daily driver I wouldn't recommend the Aluminum, I started learning how to drive my car w/ that **** haha! LS2 feels so much smoother but I have yet to feel the accel. difference because I'm breaking it in right now. I'm pretty sure I won't spin my tires in the rain from a stop w/ the LS2 now. =D Aluminum seems like it may hurt the rearend more as well (10 bolt).
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Originally Posted by 383ss
ummm, what?? that is completely false. the heavier flywheel WILL NOT help the car accelerate the car once its moving. it will resist it. the arguement here is if it will hurt launching the car. the heavier flywheel will have more stored energy when it is sitting there spinning waiting to launch the car. when you dump the clutch, this energy is released. that is the gain from a steele flywheel, you have more stored energy at launch. once you do launch the steele flywheel is only added weight that has to be spun.
I was always skeptical of aluminum flywheels until I saw tim tosto use one. he has the 6spd record with a 9.71 and mid 1.3X 60'. it launches HARD and consistant. I wouldn't hesitate getting one for a 1/4 mile car in an f-body.
I was always skeptical of aluminum flywheels until I saw tim tosto use one. he has the 6spd record with a 9.71 and mid 1.3X 60'. it launches HARD and consistant. I wouldn't hesitate getting one for a 1/4 mile car in an f-body.
Hardly a record... an FLP customer ran an 9.34 at 148 mph with a steel flywheel equipped 1995 LT1 Camaro Z28. He doesn't post on the boards. I can tell you it's a 396, Procharger F1, 12 bolt (3.73 gear), F.A.S.T., 771 rwhp, and an FLT built Extreme Duty T-56.
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Light flywheel? Listen to how quick it comes back to idle. John Mazmanian's old gasser sounds pretty awesome.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=EtFJNTj-W3Q
Actually this is a clone of the original car and it has a B&M automatic of some sort I believe. Still, it has that distinct light flywheel sound I love to hear.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=EtFJNTj-W3Q
Actually this is a clone of the original car and it has a B&M automatic of some sort I believe. Still, it has that distinct light flywheel sound I love to hear.
Last edited by warpwr; 08-11-2006 at 12:01 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Before I started taking the 99 donor car apart for my swap, it was still a running driving car. It has quite a few mods and an alum. flywheel. I drove it back and forth from the storage shed to my driveway. About 1/4. Im good at driving a manual, but have never actually owned one. I had no problems driving the car around. I only stalled once or twice when I would punch it coming up the driveway and then snap the throttle shut.
The best was revving the car. SO quick with the cut out open. It would go from idle to 6,000 then back to idle before the tach would even start to come back down from 6,000. Im going to try it in my 87 once I get it running...but I expect to have no problems with it. Throttle response felt really awsome.
Justin
The best was revving the car. SO quick with the cut out open. It would go from idle to 6,000 then back to idle before the tach would even start to come back down from 6,000. Im going to try it in my 87 once I get it running...but I expect to have no problems with it. Throttle response felt really awsome.
Justin
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i went with a billet steel flywheel and it weigh 16lbs and still feels stock pretty much but it revs a little quicker, but im still breaking in the clutch so i havnt gotten through the gears hard yet
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Originally Posted by NoMoreLS1
Stay with a steel flywheel for drag racing. Aluminum for road racing.
Hardly a record... an FLP customer ran an 9.34 at 148 mph with a steel flywheel equipped 1995 LT1 Camaro Z28. He doesn't post on the boards. I can tell you it's a 396, Procharger F1, 12 bolt (3.73 gear), F.A.S.T., 771 rwhp, and an FLT built Extreme Duty T-56.
Hardly a record... an FLP customer ran an 9.34 at 148 mph with a steel flywheel equipped 1995 LT1 Camaro Z28. He doesn't post on the boards. I can tell you it's a 396, Procharger F1, 12 bolt (3.73 gear), F.A.S.T., 771 rwhp, and an FLT built Extreme Duty T-56.
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