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aluminum flywheel for 1/4 mile car

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Old 01-25-2007, 01:47 AM
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With Aluminum all I do is either Bog down or spin my tires between a very narrow RPM range 3600 RPM launch and 3500 RPM launch. if I either spin or bog with a RPM so narrow, an Aluminum flywheel sucks for drag racing..

Note that I only run Nitto 555Rs. I bet with slicks, the Aluminum would do quite well, if I do a high RPM launch.

Also with my spinning and bogging issue there are other factors. such as if I warmed up my tires enough, so that they will grip. maybe at my 3600 launch if I burned out longer, my tires would have hooked. But either way, on he street a I also spin my tires from a roll when I punch the throttle with the aluminum flywheel. its too light for our torque.
Old 01-25-2007, 07:18 AM
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sfi steel here works great
Old 01-25-2007, 09:13 PM
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well i have an aluminum fly wheel and love it and i saw in one post that a guy got it in his gto to help save the rear... i broke my richmond 4.10's on the street on 315 sumitiomo's
Old 01-27-2007, 01:50 PM
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Fidanza Aluminum flywheel here...12.5 lbs, in a car with a TREX, and I have no problem taking off. No new numbers since the switch, but I am sure it will make up for what I lost changing from 3.23 gear to a 4.10 gear.
Old 02-05-2007, 04:55 PM
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My red car has the Fidanza aluminum flywheel and a Spec aluminum lw pressure plate. With ~410rwhp it bogged on drag radials launching at 4000. If you want to launch off the rev limiter for a couple hp, you will like it.

If I drag raced the red car it would have a steel flywheel.
Old 09-10-2007, 11:25 PM
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Not to hi-jack this thread but I have a few question on aluminum flywheels. There seems to be alot of members who have actually ran one and not just going off what there buddy said about it.

Anyone have or ever have problems with there aluminum flywheel warping? Is aluminum more likely to warp than steel on a DD with little track time?
Old 09-11-2007, 12:38 AM
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One of my buddies had an aluminum flywheel in his mustang. His car was a 1/4 car, he had to powershift the ***** out of the car to get the revs to stay up. He has now been through 3 trannies (t-3650 piece of ****). I wouldn't recommend the aluminum flywheel unless you like to powershift.
Old 09-11-2007, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JonB
Not to hi-jack this thread but I have a few question on aluminum flywheels. There seems to be alot of members who have actually ran one and not just going off what there buddy said about it.

Anyone have or ever have problems with there aluminum flywheel warping? Is aluminum more likely to warp than steel on a DD with little track time?
It is rare to see the whole flywheel warp. Aluminum flywheels have steel inserts where the actual friction surface is. They are generally bolted on. Those friction surfaces can warp but are easily replaceable.

Andrew
Old 09-11-2007, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
It is rare to see the whole flywheel warp. Aluminum flywheels have steel inserts where the actual friction surface is. They are generally bolted on. Those friction surfaces can warp but are easily replaceable.

Andrew
I agree...I run an aluminum flywheel with my RPS clutch, and it uses steel inserts that have small gaps in between (there are 4 of them) to allow for expansion due to heat. It is their cyn-r-g flywheel...no warping out of mine under daily driving conditions with lots of spirited driving, but I have never beat on it hard at the track, so my experience on this subject is limited.
Old 09-18-2007, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pontiac
I have a light one and it does make a difference driving it, especially with a big cam, the weight helps the idle between the both.
I had Alum. on my prior car and I noticed that it was trickier to dial in the idle. I also had to launch at a higher rpm on the street. Took a bit to get use to driving the car, especially at parking lot speed.
Old 09-28-2007, 08:49 AM
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i went with a aluminum spec wheel setup on my car wich is close to stock but its the best mod i have done so far, when daily driving i actualy prefer the light flyhweel its sometimes a little trickyer to take of but as soon as the wheels start to turn its so worth it. for me it literaly felt like i had removed 400-500lbs out of the car, i also felt alot more throttle response from the car as well!

lighter flywheel, aluminum or steel its still the way to go, the car is much more fun to drive
Old 09-28-2007, 04:26 PM
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I hear the ls2/ls7 setup is heavy. Would a alum. be good for this?
Old 01-12-2008, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING
Aluminum flywheel here 1.32 60 foots everytime 3451 pds to boot . Watch it on aug 30th on PINKS and tell me how it leaves Just so you know the N/A 6 speed record is 9.71 at 141. ALL MOTOR NO POWER ADDER!!!


As far as the fywheel goes its personal preference. I've ran both and have had good luck both ways ,but since I've ran the aluminum I wouldn't go back to steel. The aluminum is way better for a drag car, its easier on parts and you don't have to worry about blowing the tires off every pass like you do with the steel .The aluminum flywheel hits the tires alot softer and helps hook the car more consitantly with very little chassis adjustment. Like I said we've ran both and my brother still has the steel. You can watch steel vs alum aug 30th on pinks they both work very well ,but with the steel you take a chance of blowing the tires off until you get it dialed in for different tracks.

So far my advise I'd go alum

this guy sold me, i'm with the "believe the guy running 9's NA" camp, getting the RPS segmented flywheel, probably going to run a spec 3 clutch, or maybe a centerforce DF, had one of those in my nitrous 5.0 and really liked it
Old 01-12-2008, 07:03 PM
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I loved my aluminum flywheel and will be putting one behind my new setup.

FYI... I had a steel flywheel with my 302, n/a and it ran 11.70@115 with a 1.45 60 ft.
same setup, almost same air density and temp and with an aluminum one, it ran 11.72@116 with a 1.49 60 ft.

On nitrous, it went from 10.43@131 to 10.29@133 and the 60 ft on nitrous was 1.41(steel) and 1.40(aluminum)

The steel one will undoubtedly hit the tires harder, but the aluminum will rev faster. If you don't have at least 400hp and rev it past 6500rpm, you're wasting your time with an aluminum one. you won't see that much gains for the cost.

I have seen this proven over the last 15 years on hundreds of low hp stick cars.
Old 01-14-2008, 07:16 PM
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So, what are the options for lighter / light weight flywheels? I know of the Fidanza, and now the Yella Terra, any others???

THanks.
Old 01-14-2008, 08:59 PM
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Mcleod, ACT, SPEC, Centerforce.. I believe they all make an aluminum flywheel, but for LS engines specifically, I have only looked into ACT and McLeod
Old 01-15-2008, 10:49 AM
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You have to take the weight of the whole clutch assembly (disc, pressure plate, flywheel) into consideration.

Maybe the pressure plate and disc used with the aluminum flywheel will be heavier so the actual weight of the assembly only drops a few pounds.
Old 01-15-2008, 11:53 AM
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This subject is a puppet show.
Old 01-15-2008, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jordan S.
This subject is a puppet show.

The cow barks at the moon when doves cry.
Old 04-07-2008, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLS1Kid
You have to take the weight of the whole clutch assembly (disc, pressure plate, flywheel) into consideration.

Maybe the pressure plate and disc used with the aluminum flywheel will be heavier so the actual weight of the assembly only drops a few pounds.

Exactly, I used an aluminum flywheel with my LS7 clutch which means I only dropped 5lbs over my stock LS1 clutch. The car is still very streetable and works fine at the dragstrip too.


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