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Manual Transmission FAQ - Look Here First!

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Old 06-09-2016, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by MaDMaX350
Well I opened up the Diff since that is usually culprit. I found the ring gear is not fully meshed with the pinion gear leaving about 1/8" at the bottom of each tooth un worn.

The biggest surprise is how much play there is between the diff and wheels. I estimate the wheels turn 3/8" before turning the diff gears... My gut tells me the whole diff needs to be rebuilt and re-shimmed at the least. Not sure about the half shaft slop.

LS1Tech what do you think?
Took the car to a shop and they found a loose carrier, destroyed axle bearing, beat up axle, no pinion preload, worn gears, and incorrect gear spacing left to right.

The lose carrier was the largest contributor to the slop.
Old 06-28-2017, 06:28 PM
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Noob question:

Are all 4th gen fbody 6-speed boxes T56? My car is a 2000 SS...

Thanks
Old 06-30-2017, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Road_Carver
Noob question:

Are all 4th gen fbody 6-speed boxes T56? My car is a 2000 SS...

Thanks

Yes, all T56s. They did make some slight changes to the T56 over the years, such as the carbon fiber synchronizer friction rings starting in 2001. Prior to that they were cellulose lined.

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/ca...ro_z28_ss.html

You can find out basic drive line info on most US made cars with the above link to automobile catalog.com
Old 06-30-2017, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Firebrian
Yes, all T56s. They did make some slight changes to the T56 over the years, such as the carbon fiber synchronizer friction rings starting in 2001. Prior to that they were cellulose lined.

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/ca...ro_z28_ss.html

You can find out basic drive line info on most US made cars with the above link to automobile catalog.com
Very cool, Thanks! I have about 130k on the car, any suggestions for maintaining good smooth operation? Was thinking about a gear oil change to synthetic, clutch seems OK right now...


Last edited by Road_Carver; 06-30-2017 at 05:02 PM.
Old 07-01-2017, 08:46 AM
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For smoother transmission operation I'd go by re-checking the FAQ's on the 1st post on upgrades to the factory equipment. If you're not sure when the last fluid change in your trans was I'd change out the trans fluid. If your trans is still on the original synchros, understand that not all synthetic trans fluids will be compatible. There are several recent threads on this topic.

Check out the clutch fluid reservoir. If the fluid is not a golden honey color without black specs, I'd follow the Ranger method and siphon it out until clean....or you can do a clutch bleeding to exchange it all at once. Clean clutch fluid will improve your shifting and help extend the lives of the clutch slave valves.

If you're not up to speed on shifting techniques I'd google some threads on that and optimize things (rev matching, double-clutching, etc.). Other than fluid changes, I'd give the car a few months at least to evaluate the current shifting performance. You just may end up liking it as is.

Last edited by Firebrian; 07-01-2017 at 08:52 AM.
Old 07-10-2017, 10:05 AM
  #126  
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Just changed my '00 with 18k mi, figured 17+ yrs on original fill. Should be changed out, so no issues occur. Always shifted smooth. Want to retain that.

Used 4qts of Castrol Domestic Multi-vehicle (ATF) Automatic Transmission Fluid yesterday, form Advance Auto:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...hTerm=castrol+

Drove around town last night, feels notchy and catchy in between gears

Now I ordered ACDelco Manual Transmission Fluid 888618008 from Summit. Switching to that, once it shows up:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-10-4033

Wanted this initially but Tremec's site just says any general DEX III. That's not the case. That Castrol feels awful.
Old 04-20-2023, 01:36 PM
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Default Clutch isnt ingaging

Originally Posted by ls1 joe
That pretty much sums it up. Have someone in the car. Have someone under the car at the slave. Have someone keeping an eye on the resevoir. Fill the resevoir. Pump the pedal 5-10 times. Open the bleed screw. Let drain. Close bleeder screw. Pull up pedal. Check fluid in resevoir. Repeat for 2 full bottles. That should do it. Long and painful but very accurate.

Thanks,
Amber
ingaging
Old 04-20-2023, 01:37 PM
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Default Clutch not ingaging after a hole bottle of fluid.

Originally Posted by Bigmommamissy17
ingaging
Clutch ingaging.
I bought a new MC . After bleeding it with a hole bottle of fluid still nothing. I have nothing but fluid coming out of the line. The reservoir is full. Still nothing. What do I need to do?

Last edited by Bigmommamissy17; 04-20-2023 at 01:39 PM. Reason: Not fully explained
Old 04-20-2023, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigmommamissy17
ingaging
So even if there's nothing but fluid coming out just keep doing it and it WILL EVENTUALLY come to up to two bottles?
Old 04-20-2023, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigmommamissy17
ingaging
Originally Posted by Bigmommamissy17
So even if there's nothing but fluid coming out just keep doing it and it WILL EVENTUALLY come to up to two bottles?
Still nothing after a hour still fluid coming out of the line no air still no pressure in petal!!??
Old 04-21-2023, 06:55 PM
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Default Clutch

[QUOTE=lsbigmommissy17@gmail.com Changed the master cylinder and my cable keeps popping when I bleed the clutch. Bought new cable and having same problem. Am I pushing my clutch to hard when bleeding it ? Causing the cable to pop. Please don't tell me it's the slave cylinder. Mc 70$ clutch cable 70$



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