LS7 clutch - shim?
#1
LS7 clutch - shim?
My LS7 clutch is coming from Fred Beans this week and I have a couple of general questions for you guys that have already installed one. I'm getting the "clutch pack" deal from them - LS7 disk, pressure plate, and flywheel and also getting a new TO ("pilot") bearing.
Some background info - I currently have a Spec Stage 3 ceramic that is going out - it is starting to slip in high gear/low RPM situations. It just started slipping as I'm breaking in my 9" - 250 miles into the breakin and the clutch started doing this . I only got about 19K out of the Spec with almost purely city driving. BTW, I already have upgraded to the 2001+ hydraulics (slave and master) and drill mod when I did the Spec 3.
2 Questions:
1) do I need to shim the LS7 clutch? If so, will the Spec shim work or does the kit from Fred Bean have everything I need?
2) Does the kit come with an alignment tool or should I look for one elsewhere?
Some background info - I currently have a Spec Stage 3 ceramic that is going out - it is starting to slip in high gear/low RPM situations. It just started slipping as I'm breaking in my 9" - 250 miles into the breakin and the clutch started doing this . I only got about 19K out of the Spec with almost purely city driving. BTW, I already have upgraded to the 2001+ hydraulics (slave and master) and drill mod when I did the Spec 3.
2 Questions:
1) do I need to shim the LS7 clutch? If so, will the Spec shim work or does the kit from Fred Bean have everything I need?
2) Does the kit come with an alignment tool or should I look for one elsewhere?
#2
1 ) no but it does engage close to floor. I wonder what happens with the self adjusting system if you shim it. Anybody tried ?
2 ) Depends on Fred Beans if they include one. GM does not.
2 ) Depends on Fred Beans if they include one. GM does not.
#3
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When I was looking into getting my set-up, only one other guy was running the aluminum flywheel. He said he had problems with engagement so they put a spec .150 shim in there. Not wanting to have any problems, I did the same thing. Right from the start, the clutch was at a more then comfortable point, and now with a thousand miles on it it feels like it is at the stock position, but then again I would have to drive a stocker again to be sure.
Supposedly the alum fw is supposed to have the same dimensions as the OEM model, but who knows, I just would rather be safe then sorry. I notice that people running it on the OEM fw without a shim feel that even though the clutch picks up with break-in, they say it is a bit lower then stock. I think if someone has the ability and willingness to experiment, they should try a shim on the OEM flywheel and see if that gives it a stock height.
Supposedly the alum fw is supposed to have the same dimensions as the OEM model, but who knows, I just would rather be safe then sorry. I notice that people running it on the OEM fw without a shim feel that even though the clutch picks up with break-in, they say it is a bit lower then stock. I think if someone has the ability and willingness to experiment, they should try a shim on the OEM flywheel and see if that gives it a stock height.
#4
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I did not shim my slave when installing the LS7 clutch with aluminum flywheel. While the engagement started off right off the floor it is slowly starting to come up a little. I didn't have any problems with the clutch not disengaging though. I did have to get a new slave cyclinder though (it started leaking bad which prompted the tear down.)
I'm with Blackrat though since mine is low like everyone else. If you have the means and willingness to experiment it may not be a bad idea.
I'm with Blackrat though since mine is low like everyone else. If you have the means and willingness to experiment it may not be a bad idea.
#5
Originally Posted by Aster
.... If you have the means and willingness to experiment it may not be a bad idea.
Any advice on the need for an alignment tool? This the first clutch swap I'm doing myself with help from a mechanically inclined friend. My friend works in a car shop and mentioned that they normally have the alignment tool as part of a replacement. However he doesn't normally do clutches himself either...so we're both relative newbies to a clutch swap and any advice is appreciated.
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The clutch kit does not come with an alignment tool so you'd have to pick one up separately. I hear you on the not wanting to do it twice and since the guys at my shop said they shouldn't need a shim I opted not to worry about it. Just make sure you bleed the system thoroughly and you should be alright.
#7
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you definantly want an alignment tool, but no it doesnt come with it. the problem is easily solved though, go to the auto parts store and pick up the took for a regular ls1 camaro. it works perfectly and only costs 3 bucks.
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#8
Originally Posted by blackrat
you definantly want an alignment tool, but no it doesnt come with it. the problem is easily solved though, go to the auto parts store and pick up the took for a regular ls1 camaro. it works perfectly and only costs 3 bucks.
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Originally Posted by blackrat
I think if someone has the ability and willingness to experiment, they should try a shim on the OEM flywheel and see if that gives it a stock height.
Last edited by Go Texas Tech; 06-05-2006 at 07:17 PM.
#10
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Originally Posted by Go Texas Tech
I put in my old SPEC III paper shim on my recent LS7 clutch install w/ the stock LS2 flywheel. The shim fits between the slave cylinder and transmission. My clutch still engaged right off the floor after the install. I now have about 150 miles on the clutch, and the engagement point is about 1/2 way up now. Much better than in the beginning. I don't think the shim made a big difference.
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Originally Posted by blackrat
What was the thinkness on it? Mine is a .150. Another guy made his on for his c5 and it was a .080 thickness.
#12
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Hmm, doesn't look very differant then mine, but who knows unless it is actually measured.
Weird. All I know is mine seemed to engage a lot higher then a lot of people were saying when I used my shim.
Weird. All I know is mine seemed to engage a lot higher then a lot of people were saying when I used my shim.
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I think the only people using the shim are the ones installing the aluminum flywheel. I got my kit from beans also. I bought my alignment tool at a local parts place. They didn't list one in the computer in stock so I brought the disk and pilot bearing down and found one for like 2 bucks.
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Back up there....I know this thread is old but I was wanting to see if there is anyone shimming their slaves with the LS7. I installed the LS7 clutch, LS2 FW, and new slave on my truck and I didnt like the way it engaged right off the floor. I put about 3k miles on the clutch and a few drag passes and it improved a little. I will be pulling the engine out and thought while I had it out I might as well shim the slave to bring it up some. Any thoughts?
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Back up there....I know this thread is old but I was wanting to see if there is anyone shimming their slaves with the LS7. I installed the LS7 clutch, LS2 FW, and new slave on my truck and I didnt like the way it engaged right off the floor. I put about 3k miles on the clutch and a few drag passes and it improved a little. I will be pulling the engine out and thought while I had it out I might as well shim the slave to bring it up some. Any thoughts?
Make sure you have completely bleeded all the air out of your system and use good brake fluid. I used ATE amber. I also have the drill out mod on my master cylinder. I remember I had to bleed the crap out of mine until it started engaging near the top. I also turkey baster my fluid when it starts to turn dark.
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Yes, I used the old paper shim out of my Spec III clutch. How much of a difference with or without I don't know.
Make sure you have completely bleeded all the air out of your system and use good brake fluid. I used ATE amber. I also have the drill out mod on my master cylinder. I remember I had to bleed the crap out of mine until it started engaging near the top. I also turkey baster my fluid when it starts to turn dark.
Make sure you have completely bleeded all the air out of your system and use good brake fluid. I used ATE amber. I also have the drill out mod on my master cylinder. I remember I had to bleed the crap out of mine until it started engaging near the top. I also turkey baster my fluid when it starts to turn dark.