LS7 clutch installed!!!
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: San Antonio
LS7 clutch installed!!! Ok well thanks to jason 
(11secproject) i now have my LS7 clutch installed.
man i love this thing!!! it engages right off the floor. i couldn't be happier!!
Brad 
(11secproject) i now have my LS7 clutch installed. man i love this thing!!! it engages right off the floor. i couldn't be happier!!Brad
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Sorry To Jack Ur Thread Bro But Did Any Of U Need To Adjust Ur Pressure Plate Before Installing It Or Should I Just Slap It On Right Out Of The Box. I've Heard That These Plates Need To Be Adjusted All The Way Back Before Installing It Or It Could Burn Up The Clutch. Anyone Heard Of This??
I installed it right out of the box. The pressure plates are self adjusting, which is why the pedal engages very low at first and comes back up ofter the first couple hundred miles.
I JUST FINISHED MY A4 TO M6 SWAP AND MY CLUTCH FEEL LIKE ITS NOT DISENGUAGING. I BLEED THE HYDROLICS, THE PEDAL FELT A LOT BETTER BUT STILL WON'T SHIFT WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM YET? 
Originally Posted by onsracing
I JUST FINISHED MY A4 TO M6 SWAP AND MY CLUTCH FEEL LIKE ITS NOT DISENGUAGING. I BLEED THE HYDROLICS, THE PEDAL FELT A LOT BETTER BUT STILL WON'T SHIFT WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM YET?
Even if you bled the hydraulis, it may take 10 or 20 minutes of pumping the pedal till it starts to build up pressure. If you havnt been pumping it that long, you might simply need to spend more time and the pressure will slowly build up.
sorry, caps is always on on my comp. lol ok i'm gonna bleed it sum more. whats the proper way to bleed, i'm pumping it about 5 times, pedal to the floor, opening up the bleeder, closing it, then let the pedal back up.
Originally Posted by onsracing
sorry, caps is always on on my comp. lol ok i'm gonna bleed it sum more. whats the proper way to bleed, i'm pumping it about 5 times, pedal to the floor, opening up the bleeder, closing it, then let the pedal back up.
i think i'm SOL. i tried pumping it for a while and started the car and still nothing. is the clutch master supposed to make a "springy" sound? i think mine might be bad. also my car is idleing about 1200rpm, will that cause it not to get ingo gear??
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
I wouldnt bother bleeding it any more. In practice it pumps up a little different than brakes do. Once youve gotten as much air out as you can by bleeding, just seal it back up and just pump the pedal. Eventually the last of the bubbles will work their way out even in the sealed system. I only bled a couple times till fluid came out, then I closed teh bleeder and pumped for about 20 minutes... First with my hand so i could pull the pedal back up, then when it started building pressure i continued with my foot. I had my brother take over when I would get tired and we switched back and fourth. It took a while, but the clutch had great pressure the first time i took it out, even if the engagement point was a little bit low. It did come up after the first couple hundred miles.
I had this clutch in my 99 ta, held great, awesome feel to it, no chatter. I think I was the third person or so to do the swap. Now I am going to put it inm y 06 Goat... I love that clutch.
Originally Posted by onsracing
i think i'm SOL. i tried pumping it for a while and started the car and still nothing. is the clutch master supposed to make a "springy" sound? i think mine might be bad. also my car is idleing about 1200rpm, will that cause it not to get ingo gear??
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
I dont think the high idle would have anything to do with clutch engagement. You might try releasing your quick disconnect fitting and starting it all over. Maybe you didnt get a good seal? Maybe theyres crap in the hose? Did you do the drill mod when you did the clutch? Could be crap left over in the line...
