how to replace the pilot bushing
how to replace the pilot bushing ok so i pulled my t56 off and the clutch along with the flywheel. i look into the pilot bearing/bushing and its all torn up in there. i check the t56 input shaft for play and there is kind of a lot. i start to clean out the whole of the pilot bearing/ and when i go to remove my hand i get a couple needle bearings out. and there is a nice groove in there from the needle bearins coming loose and i guess grinding into the pilot bushing. and also how do you remove it? is there a special tool? or just an ordinary slide hammer will do the trick? do pilot bearings usually let go at 55,000 miles? or is that from the play in the imput shaft?
thank you,
ryan
thank you,
ryan
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 970
Likes: 4
From: England UK
I had the same happen to mine, the pilot bearing was just dust, and a shell left around the edge. The machanicjust used a hammer and screw driver to lever it out taking care not to damage the hole.
Fitting the new bearing was very tight, having to use a mallet and a plastic tube to hammer the bearing home, dont use a metal hammer straight on the bearing.
Good luck, take your time getting it out.
Fitting the new bearing was very tight, having to use a mallet and a plastic tube to hammer the bearing home, dont use a metal hammer straight on the bearing.
Good luck, take your time getting it out.
Go to Advanced and rent the $30 tool (you get your money back) to pull it out. I tried the slide hammer on mine, didn't work (though i have used them on 5.0's before with great luck).
I think i will just keep this thing....worked like a charm.
I think i will just keep this thing....worked like a charm.
Ok, you guys have to promise not to laugh, but I'll tell you how we got my pilot bushing out.
We used the old input shaft from my tranny, it was shredded and needed to be replaced. Anyway, I took a roll of toilet paper and a bowl of water. Take a couple sheets of TP and soak it, shove it into the pilot bushing, put the input shaft in and banged on it.
Kept adding TP and beating it. Eventually it popped right out. Basically, You cant compress water. The TP holds the Water and when you shove it behind the bushing, it has to go somewhere, so the pressure pushes the bushing out. I know it sounds stupid but it worked like a champ.
I would have rented something to pull it out with, but the only auto parts store in this town didnt have anything to help me out.
Lastly, I did what Amber at T56 rebuilds suggested. I replaced the pilot bushing with one from a 69 camaro with a 4 speed muncie (sp) Its a brass bushing so theres no give to it.
We used the old input shaft from my tranny, it was shredded and needed to be replaced. Anyway, I took a roll of toilet paper and a bowl of water. Take a couple sheets of TP and soak it, shove it into the pilot bushing, put the input shaft in and banged on it.
Kept adding TP and beating it. Eventually it popped right out. Basically, You cant compress water. The TP holds the Water and when you shove it behind the bushing, it has to go somewhere, so the pressure pushes the bushing out. I know it sounds stupid but it worked like a champ.
I would have rented something to pull it out with, but the only auto parts store in this town didnt have anything to help me out.
Lastly, I did what Amber at T56 rebuilds suggested. I replaced the pilot bushing with one from a 69 camaro with a 4 speed muncie (sp) Its a brass bushing so theres no give to it.
Two problems with following the above advice.
1) the end of the crank on an LS1 has a welch plug that caps the oil gally. If you use the TP/smack down method, you run the risk of dis-lodging the plug and creating a major engine oil leak. Ya , that method is really not that funny .
2) Why would you replace a caged roller bearing with a '40s vintage bushing design? This is an LS1 and more than a few steps up the techno scale from those Camaro/ Muncie days.This is not a dump truck application. Use the roller bearing , please.
1) the end of the crank on an LS1 has a welch plug that caps the oil gally. If you use the TP/smack down method, you run the risk of dis-lodging the plug and creating a major engine oil leak. Ya , that method is really not that funny .
2) Why would you replace a caged roller bearing with a '40s vintage bushing design? This is an LS1 and more than a few steps up the techno scale from those Camaro/ Muncie days.This is not a dump truck application. Use the roller bearing , please.
Originally Posted by calhoon
Two problems with following the above advice.
1) the end of the crank on an LS1 has a welch plug that caps the oil gally. If you use the TP/smack down method, you run the risk of dis-lodging the plug and creating a major engine oil leak. Ya , that method is really not that funny .
2) Why would you replace a caged roller bearing with a '40s vintage bushing design? This is an LS1 and more than a few steps up the techno scale from those Camaro/ Muncie days.This is not a dump truck application. Use the roller bearing , please.
1) the end of the crank on an LS1 has a welch plug that caps the oil gally. If you use the TP/smack down method, you run the risk of dis-lodging the plug and creating a major engine oil leak. Ya , that method is really not that funny .
2) Why would you replace a caged roller bearing with a '40s vintage bushing design? This is an LS1 and more than a few steps up the techno scale from those Camaro/ Muncie days.This is not a dump truck application. Use the roller bearing , please.
The bushing from the 69 Camaro is a solid brash bushing. It helps cut down on the play on the input shaft. The input shaft is the reason I broke 4 slaves in 6 months. After talking to Joe and Amber and following their advice, the car runs strong with no issues with the clutch or tranny.
If you want them to explain it better, they can. They're a sponsor here so their number isnt hard to find.
