LS7 clutch / drill mod / bleeding question.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Felton, PA
LS7 clutch / drill mod / bleeding question. Ok, I've got the LS7 clutch in and everything is back together. I also pulled the master cylinder while everything was apart and did the drill-mod. I used a brand new OEM slave cylinder/release bearing. We've been out there pumping and bleeding and pumping and bleeding for an hour, the pedal seems like it got firmer to a point and then doesn't seem to get any better from there. The pedal starts to get firm maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down, clutch never disengages.
I quit for the night and was contemplating some things, one thing I noticed, and this may be completely normal, when I was torquing down the pressure plate the springs on the plate started to bend inwards as I was torquing. I associated this to a new disc/pressure plate though.
Should I just shut up and keep bleeding?
I quit for the night and was contemplating some things, one thing I noticed, and this may be completely normal, when I was torquing down the pressure plate the springs on the plate started to bend inwards as I was torquing. I associated this to a new disc/pressure plate though.
Should I just shut up and keep bleeding?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Felton, PA
The factory service manual method. Pump, hold pedal down, open bleeder screw for a second, close bleeder screw, release pedal. I've found that waiting for about 10-15 seconds after releasing the pedal before pumping it or holding it seems to yield the best results. And pumping slowly.
I already have a Mity-Vac but I've been resisting the urge based on what I've read from some people here.
I already have a Mity-Vac but I've been resisting the urge based on what I've read from some people here.
