---New hydraulic problem---
---New hydraulic problem--- I had trouble putting the car into gear one day and discovered low clutch fluid. So I filled the resevoir and bleed the system. Now, the car will not go into gear without rolling first. It has engaged right off the floor since I put the RAM clutch in; but damn, it doesn't even disengage now. When I stop with the car in gear, it shakes and bucks like mad. The shaking gets faster if I rev the motor 
. I checked the clutch fluid resevoir again and it is still full, so it doesn't seem like a leak. My best guess is my McCleod MC is shot and not transfering enough fluid to the slave.
I was going to put a shim behind the slave so it would disengage farther from the floor, but this new problem really makes me think there is more to it.
What do you guys think?? I have only done this one clutch and hydraulics so I do not know what the new ideas are.
What do I need to do???
. I checked the clutch fluid resevoir again and it is still full, so it doesn't seem like a leak. My best guess is my McCleod MC is shot and not transfering enough fluid to the slave. I was going to put a shim behind the slave so it would disengage farther from the floor, but this new problem really makes me think there is more to it.
What do you guys think?? I have only done this one clutch and hydraulics so I do not know what the new ideas are.
What do I need to do???
If you are low on clutch fluid, you have a leak somewhere...it is supposed to be a sealed system, so there is really no way to lose fluid without that being the case. I'd look to the McLeod master first...for some reason I remember reading that some have had problems with them leaking, but that is pure conjecture.
You used red loctite on the pressure plate bolts too?
You used red loctite on the pressure plate bolts too?
Yes, pressure plate bolts were ARPs and they were loctited to 45 lb. ft. I will prpbably put in a shim when I try to fix this hydraulics issue, and will check PP bolts at that time.
I am thinking the MC also. I might get the RAM adj. this time since it is based off the updated stock piece.
I am thinking the MC also. I might get the RAM adj. this time since it is based off the updated stock piece.
You really shouldn't need any shims with an adjustable master...from my understanding, it is kinda a one or the other (either use a slave shim, or get an adjustable master). Not too sure what else is going on here...
Well, I am going to see if there is any new air in the system. The resevoir is still full, so I don't think there is a major leak. I am starting to think the McCleod master is dying . I will just buy the RAM adjustable and try it. I know it is just a stock 2002 MC that is made adjustable, I don't care. I don't want to be rebuilding a MC every year or so and still have the clutch travel so funky. If it still engages right off the floor, I will have to buy the shim kit from Rapid Motorsports and install one.
. I will just buy the RAM adjustable and try it. I know it is just a stock 2002 MC that is made adjustable, I don't care. I don't want to be rebuilding a MC every year or so and still have the clutch travel so funky. If it still engages right off the floor, I will have to buy the shim kit from Rapid Motorsports and install one. Thanks. Now I need to figure out how I am going to get another U-bolt and plate for the stock MC. My McLeod had it's own bolts 
. Maybe I can find a 6 speed car in a junk yard somewhere close by.
. Maybe I can find a 6 speed car in a junk yard somewhere close by. Trending Topics
Just went out and hooked up the Mity Vac. I got zero air even at 25psi for 15 mins. I then started the car and it went into 1st gear fine. So I tried reverse. Only a slight lurch. I decided to see it it would drive. As I put it in 1st again I got a lurch that I didn't get the first time 
. Here is the interesting part: AS I SAT THERE WITH THE CLUTCH ON THE FLOOR, IT STARTED SHAKING PROGRESSIVLEY WORSE. The longer I let it idle with the tranny in 1st and the clutch on the floor, it shook worse and worse.
This leads me to believe that the master is not capable of keeping fluid in the slave any longer. I also think I need a shim. Maybe the .015" since it is on the floor and still dragging .
Do you all agree?
What a pain in the ***
.
. Here is the interesting part: AS I SAT THERE WITH THE CLUTCH ON THE FLOOR, IT STARTED SHAKING PROGRESSIVLEY WORSE. The longer I let it idle with the tranny in 1st and the clutch on the floor, it shook worse and worse.This leads me to believe that the master is not capable of keeping fluid in the slave any longer. I also think I need a shim. Maybe the .015" since it is on the floor and still dragging
.Do you all agree?
What a pain in the ***
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Verdad Gallardo Man...I'd get a new master in there ASAP...it really sounds like it just isn't holding pressure, just like you say. Thunder Racing carries the Ram adjustable, which I think would be right up your alley without having to pull the tranny.
I got the master cylinder out and the hydraulic line installed. Bled it with the Mity Vac. Trying to remove tranny today and see if I can go ahead and put the shim in. I will not have the tranny or MC reinistalled untill Saturday when my Step-Dad can come play 
.
. Well, Step-Dad and I got the tranny out, shim in, and tranny back in . After a cool down, we will get the master back in, mityvac it, and put all of the pieces laying around back on the car.
Maybe there will be a test drive by tonight!
. After a cool down, we will get the master back in, mityvac it, and put all of the pieces laying around back on the car. Maybe there will be a test drive by tonight! Didn't make it. Had to fight the torque arm, and got called in to the Hospital twice . Oh well, all that's left tomorrow is driveshaft, exhaust, shifter, and bleed the hydraulics..............
. Oh well, all that's left tomorrow is driveshaft, exhaust, shifter, and bleed the hydraulics.............. Didn't work . Same problem, won't go into gear. Wants to roll instead of go into gear . I guess I wasted $214.00 and a week of lying on concrete .
What a pain in the ***. Does anyone have any insight? HELP!!!
. Same problem, won't go into gear. Wants to roll instead of go into gear . I guess I wasted $214.00 and a week of lying on concrete .What a pain in the ***. Does anyone have any insight? HELP!!!
I don't see anywhere that you actually tried to adjust the MC ??? why not do that, that is what it is there for.
BTW, not to get off topic, but your signature statement is an impossibility. corn converted to ethanol can not fuel even 10% of US cars. and even that much is impracticle
some quick numbers
1 acre of corn can produce 350 gallons of ethanol anually
US has 73,000,000 acres of corn grown anually.
US uses 170,000,000,000 gallons of gas anually.
350X73,000,000,000 is only 25.5 billion gallons if EVERY acre of corn was used for ethanol. thats only 7% of what is needed. if this is done, the livestock industry would be decimated anyway, because most corn is used to feed it.
BTW, not to get off topic, but your signature statement is an impossibility. corn converted to ethanol can not fuel even 10% of US cars. and even that much is impracticle
some quick numbers
1 acre of corn can produce 350 gallons of ethanol anually
US has 73,000,000 acres of corn grown anually.
US uses 170,000,000,000 gallons of gas anually.
350X73,000,000,000 is only 25.5 billion gallons if EVERY acre of corn was used for ethanol. thats only 7% of what is needed. if this is done, the livestock industry would be decimated anyway, because most corn is used to feed it.
Last edited by 383ss; Aug 20, 2006 at 08:52 PM.
Yeah, I adjusted the Master Cylinder. In fact, I adjusted it out so far that when I depressed the pedal, teh car would not start because the pedal did not touch the ignition saftey switch . I shortened it untill it would depress the switch, and left it there.
The E85 is just the most logical step in the right direction right now. You can also get the ethanol from sugar cane, and a few other sources. Anything that fuels the internal combustion engine other that Arab gasoline now is better than having to switch to some electric powered car. And think about this: if we have a completely synthetic lab produced motor oil, why can't we have a completely synthetic gasoline? I am sure it has to do with the chemical differences between motor oil and gasoline, but still.
. I shortened it untill it would depress the switch, and left it there.The E85 is just the most logical step in the right direction right now. You can also get the ethanol from sugar cane, and a few other sources. Anything that fuels the internal combustion engine other that Arab gasoline now is better than having to switch to some electric powered car. And think about this: if we have a completely synthetic lab produced motor oil, why can't we have a completely synthetic gasoline? I am sure it has to do with the chemical differences between motor oil and gasoline, but still.
Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
Yeah, I adjusted the Master Cylinder. In fact, I adjusted it out so far that when I depressed the pedal, teh car would not start because the pedal did not touch the ignition saftey switch . I shortened it untill it would depress the switch, and left it there.
The E85 is just the most logical step in the right direction right now. You can also get the ethanol from sugar cane, and a few other sources. Anything that fuels the internal combustion engine other that Arab gasoline now is better than having to switch to some electric powered car. And think about this: if we have a completely synthetic lab produced motor oil, why can't we have a completely synthetic gasoline? I am sure it has to do with the chemical differences between motor oil and gasoline, but still.
. I shortened it untill it would depress the switch, and left it there.The E85 is just the most logical step in the right direction right now. You can also get the ethanol from sugar cane, and a few other sources. Anything that fuels the internal combustion engine other that Arab gasoline now is better than having to switch to some electric powered car. And think about this: if we have a completely synthetic lab produced motor oil, why can't we have a completely synthetic gasoline? I am sure it has to do with the chemical differences between motor oil and gasoline, but still.
ok, thanks for clarifying that. also, if you use the mighty vac you are not supposed to go over 12hg or so. if you went to 25, you may have messed up the seals in the master or slave cylinder.
E85 is a decent step, but producing a very significant amount from corn is not an option. we flat out can NOT produce enough ethanol from organic means to satisfy the US demand for gasoline. it is part of the solution, but not the saving grace like people seem to think it is. the ethanol 'bubble' will burst just like the tech stock market in 2000.
if you want to talk about alternative plants, switchgrass can produce around 1500 gallons per acre of ethanol. 4 times that of corn. even then, that would only be around 25% of what is needed to 'replace' current gasoline if all corn was switched over to it, which again is not even close to possible.
In the write up on the MityVac that Buschman did he stated go 10, 15, and 20 psi so that is what I did.
The only other option I can think of is to fill the resevoir and put a pan under the trans. Crack the bleeder valve and have a friend keep pouring DOT3 into the resevoir. Gravity bleed ya know. Then close the bleeder valve and re-MityVac.
If that doesn't do it, I am going to shoot myself in the face.
The only other option I can think of is to fill the resevoir and put a pan under the trans. Crack the bleeder valve and have a friend keep pouring DOT3 into the resevoir. Gravity bleed ya know. Then close the bleeder valve and re-MityVac.
If that doesn't do it, I am going to shoot myself in the face.