Reverse locked out-Searched
Well then your problem likely is either the PCM wont ground the solenoid or cannot ground it.
Need to figure out which.
Anything out of the car , modded, cluster BCM A/C stripped for racing etc?
Has a working speedo & cluster? Was there ever wiring problems on the car?
Have access to the data steam from the PCM?
Need to figure out which.
Anything out of the car , modded, cluster BCM A/C stripped for racing etc?
Has a working speedo & cluster? Was there ever wiring problems on the car?
Have access to the data steam from the PCM?
None of the wiring in the car has ever been messed with besides the stereo. AC, speedo and cluster have never been messed with. There has never been any wiring problems. I don't have access to the data stream from the PCM.
This started after a cam install. It was working the day I started. Took me 2 days to swap the cam and it wouldn't work after. The only thing unplugged that I know of is the driver side o2 sensor. I need an extension for it.
This started after a cam install. It was working the day I started. Took me 2 days to swap the cam and it wouldn't work after. The only thing unplugged that I know of is the driver side o2 sensor. I need an extension for it.
Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
None of the wiring in the car has ever been messed with besides the stereo. AC, speedo and cluster have never been messed with. There has never been any wiring problems. I don't have access to the data stream from the PCM.
This started after a cam install. It was working the day I started. Took me 2 days to swap the cam and it wouldn't work after. The only thing unplugged that I know of is the driver side o2 sensor. I need an extension for it.
This started after a cam install. It was working the day I started. Took me 2 days to swap the cam and it wouldn't work after. The only thing unplugged that I know of is the driver side o2 sensor. I need an extension for it.
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From: Chicago Far Far South Subs
Did you do any tuning for the cam after the install? If you know someone with HpTuners they can trigger the reverse solinoid and check on a true command from the PCM. It does sound like it is originating from the PCM now. Is it possable you disconnected or broke the ground going to the pcm? Maybe check that too.
Try pin 40 and 1 on connector C2 red, and see if they are a direct short to ground when ohming them out at the connector. Maybe the pcm is working properly but the grounding is bad. And again make sure the connection at the pcm to connector C2 is solid and all pins are making good. I would say if the grounding of these 2 pins are ok then it has to be the pcm. Do you know someone that has a pcm from a M6 and you guys could swap and try, if the above test proves direct short to ground?
Dave
Try pin 40 and 1 on connector C2 red, and see if they are a direct short to ground when ohming them out at the connector. Maybe the pcm is working properly but the grounding is bad. And again make sure the connection at the pcm to connector C2 is solid and all pins are making good. I would say if the grounding of these 2 pins are ok then it has to be the pcm. Do you know someone that has a pcm from a M6 and you guys could swap and try, if the above test proves direct short to ground?
Dave
Last edited by Farmer2; Aug 20, 2006 at 08:02 AM.
Originally Posted by Farmer2
Did you do any tuning for the cam after the install? If you know someone with HpTuners they can trigger the reverse solinoid and check on a true command from the PCM. It does sound like it is originating from the PCM now. Is it possable you disconnected or broke the ground going to the pcm? Maybe check that too.
Try pin 40 and 1 on connector C2 red, and see if they are a direct short to ground when ohming them out at the connector. Maybe the pcm is working properly but the grounding is bad. And again make sure the connection at the pcm to connector C2 is solid and all pins are making good. I would say if the grounding of these 2 pins are ok then it has to be the pcm. Do you know someone that has a pcm from a M6 and you guys could swap and try, if the above test proves direct short to ground?
Dave
Try pin 40 and 1 on connector C2 red, and see if they are a direct short to ground when ohming them out at the connector. Maybe the pcm is working properly but the grounding is bad. And again make sure the connection at the pcm to connector C2 is solid and all pins are making good. I would say if the grounding of these 2 pins are ok then it has to be the pcm. Do you know someone that has a pcm from a M6 and you guys could swap and try, if the above test proves direct short to ground?
Dave
Thanks for the reply. I'll check and make sure the PCM has ground later and post up.
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From: Chicago Far Far South Subs
Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
Pin 1 and 40 were both good grounds, 0.1 ohm on both.
What year car is it again?
Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
2001... That sucks.
I only drove the car once since the reverse lock out messed up but I didn't notice anything wrong with getting into any gears. Just really hard to push it over so I could put it in reverse. 64k miles on the car, kinda makes me mad that its having computer problems. I still have a vortech supercharger kit to install. It would really be bad if the PCM messed up after I get it tunned.
Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
Don't think so. When are you having trouble getting into it?
definately pcm related man, everything trans related is falling apart after this clutch install
Sounds to me like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Might try bleeding it some more.
I don't think there is anything really stopping you from getting into any of the gears. Its harder to get it into lower gears at higher speeds because the syncros have to do more work when there is a large change in speed from one gear to the next. Lots of people have bent pushrods from shifting 1,2,1 at high rpms.
I don't think there is anything really stopping you from getting into any of the gears. Its harder to get it into lower gears at higher speeds because the syncros have to do more work when there is a large change in speed from one gear to the next. Lots of people have bent pushrods from shifting 1,2,1 at high rpms.
Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
Sounds to me like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Might try bleeding it some more.
I don't think there is anything really stopping you from getting into any of the gears. Its harder to get it into lower gears at higher speeds because the syncros have to do more work when there is a large change in speed from one gear to the next. Lots of people have bent pushrods from shifting 1,2,1 at high rpms.
I don't think there is anything really stopping you from getting into any of the gears. Its harder to get it into lower gears at higher speeds because the syncros have to do more work when there is a large change in speed from one gear to the next. Lots of people have bent pushrods from shifting 1,2,1 at high rpms.
this sounds like you need to bleed your clutch some more my car did the same thing hard to shift into first all other gears were fine ( after freshley rebuilt t56, spec clutch, gmpp slave cylinder) just bled it a few more times (it took alot of bleeding) and works perfect now
Make a new topic about it and get some other opinions if you want. I'm no expert but I still think your clutch isn't fully releasing. It would be most noticeable from a stop trying to get it into first gear like you said. Once your moving it is possable to **** without a clutch. Up and down, you just have to rev match and don't force the shifter.
Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
Make a new topic about it and get some other opinions if you want. I'm no expert but I still think your clutch isn't fully releasing. It would be most noticeable from a stop trying to get it into first gear like you said. Once your moving it is possable to **** without a clutch. Up and down, you just have to rev match and don't force the shifter.
